P.1
China Retail Region
CONFIDENTIAL P.2
Question and Answer
China PH Control SOP Product
Memo
High Risk Testing in Local China Labs
CHINA PHTESTING SOP FOR QA/ DA
Agenda
-Ensure that all China inbound production for washed
products fall within the published pH standard,
irrespective of Brand, product classification or
geographies.
-Current Focus : China PO’s. [ Gap and Gap Outlet brand]
-Going ahead, would be applicable to other Gap Inc.
Brands, like Old Navy.
OBJECTIVE
1. pH Control Process Flow for China Retail Order
2. Responsibility of garment factory (pre-production)
3. Responsibility of laundry
4. Responsibility of garment factory (final)
5. Responsibility of Vendor DA, Gap QA, PI and Wet
Processing (WP) Team
6. GB/T 7573 – 2009 pH test method
TOPICS
PH Control Process Flow for China Retail Order (Page 1)
LaundryGarment
Factory
GAPQA
Use significant
indicator to classify
garment for China
Retail Order
Prepare panels for
Laundry to test pH
for each batch
Separate
batches during
WP
Mark down reference
batch number by
permanent pen on
each panel and put
one panel into each
batch
Garment wet
processing –
target pH 6.5
Collect all the wash
panels from each
batch and conduct
100% pH Test
Pass?
Store received
garment from
Laundry batch by
batch separately
P2
Check Laundry pH
Test reports
Yes
VMandWP
Team
ChinaPI
Check the re-wash
process
No
PH Control Process Flow for China Retail Order (Page 2)
LaundryGarment
Factory
GAPQAVMandWP
Team
Locallab
Send finished
garments to
finishing dept.
Random audit 1 garment
from bulk and forward to
China PI for pH test
validation
Send 1 garment to for
local lab (Intertek / BV)
testing
P2
Pass?
Record the result
in pH log
No
Yes
Record the result
in pH log and
inform Garment
Factory
Preparation works for garment factory in pre-production stage :
1. Use different colors of string as an indicator to separate China
Order vs. other orders.
2. Confirm to use correct China labeling at garments.
3. Follow to prepare fabric panels for pH test specimens. Test pH
by each wash batch.
- Size of fabric panel : 50cm X 50cm (edges over-locked)
4. Inform laundry this is a China Order officially.
5. Instruct to check / Test pH , separately, all Wash batches.
2. Responsibility of garment factory
(pre-production)
Laundry should :
1. Never mix up with China Order together with other orders as there’s different
stringent and tightened pH requirements and set the target at pH 6.5 for all
wash loads.
2. Should have a batch separation system during production.
3. Write down batch number on each panel (prepared by garment factory as pH
test specimen) by permanent pen before load in washing bath.
4. Put one panel (batch no. written) into every single batch during wet processing.
5. Collect all the washed panels and conduct 100% pH test.
6. Passed quantity can send to garment factory for further process.
7. Failed batch should be re-washed to adjust to right pH range and clearly
mentioned in failed report accompanying with passed re-test report before
sending to garment factory.
8. Pack each batch separately during transportation.
3. Responsibility of laundry
Garment factory should :
1. Study laundry pH test reports and select marginal passed batch
to conduct random checking (at least one counter check by
daily delivery).
2. Passed garment can send to do finishing works.
3. Urgently send ONE bulk garment to local lab testing, factory
should hold the shipment for test result.
4. Responsibility of garment factory (finishing)
Gap QA / Vendor DA :
1. Review test reports from laundry and garment factory.
2. Randomly select garment in finishing area and send to local lab for pH test to verify the
accuracy of test result. (Note : To be reviewed the process regularly)
3. Inform PI / WP Team to follow up if test result in (2) failed.
PI :
1. Conduct training of pH test method to garment factories and laundries.
2. Periodically calibrate pH test method of laundry and garment factory.
3. Inform pH test failure in China test report and request QA/WP to follow up the corrective
action before any retesting.
WP Team :
1. Review test reports from laundry during every factory visit and validate protocol used is as
instructed.
2. Follow up failed report and re-wash condition and re-validate the washing recipe used in
pH correction.
5. Responsibility of Vendor DA, Gap QA, PI and Wet
Processing (WP) Team
China PH  SOP
Glass flasks, with a capacity of 100 ml
Mechanical shaker, providing rotational or reciprocating
movement. A to-and fro movement at a rate of 60/min
Beakers, chemically resistant, with a capacity of 150 ml.
Glass rods, chemically resistant.
Volumetric cylinder with a capacity of 100 ml.
pH-meter (e.g. MettleToledo), with a glass electrode,
capable of measuring to at least 0.01 pH-units.
Electronic Balance, accurate to 0.01 g.
1L volumetric flasks, of grade A quality.
Equipment Required for pHTest
1. Calibrate the pH-meter at the temperature of the extract to be
measured.
2. Check the calibration of the pH-meter using two or three buffer
solutions. Immerse the electrode several times in the same
solution (KCl) used to prepare the extract until the indicated pH-
value stabilizes
3. Decant the first extract into a beaker, immediately immerse the
electrode to a depth of at least 10 mm and stir gently with a rod
until the pH-value stabilizes (do not record the pH-value of this
solution).
4. Decant the second extract into another beaker, immediately
immerse the electrode, without washing, in the beaker to a
depth of at least 10 mm and allow to stand without stirring until
the pH-value stabilizes. Record this value.
Measurement of the pH of the Aqueous Extract
5. Decant the third extract into another beaker, immediately
immerse the electrode, without washing, in the beaker to a
depth of at least 10 mm and allow to stand without stirring until
the pH-value stabilizes. Record this value.
6. Record the pH-values of the second and third extracts as
measurements.
7. If the difference between the two pH-values, expressed to the
nearest 0.1 pH-units, is greater than 0.2, repeat the procedure
with other test samples. When two valid measurements have
been obtained, calculate the mean value.
NOTE : If there have dispute when use water and KCL solution, then KCL solution as the
extracting solution be recommended.
Measurement of the pH of the Aqueous Extract (cont’d)
GB/T7573 ISO3071
Water Distilled or de-ionized water (at least grade 3 water), having a pH 5.0-7.5
Extracting
solution
DIWater or 0.1 mol/L KCl solution
If pH value is not within 5.0-7.5, the water shall be redistilled (acid or organic
matter can be removed by distilling water from a solution of 1g/L KMnO4 and
4g/L NaOH. Alkalinity can be removed by distilling the water from a solution of
dilute H2SO4.
If the distilled water is not grade 3 water, may make 100mL water boiling 10
mins and cool to room temperature
Testing
procedure
Placed each test specimen and 100 ml of extracting solution into a stoppered
flask. Agitate the flask for a short period by hand to ensure that the textile
material is properly wetted out.
then shake it mechanically for
2 hr +/- 5 mins (MIN)
then shake it mechanically for
2 hr +/- 5 mins
Result Mean of two pH values, to the nearest 0.1 unit
Differences between GB and ISO Method
Differences among pH Detection Standards
Test Method GB/T 7573-2009 ISO 3071-2005 AATCC 81-2006 (modified)
Applicable to Any textile form Any textile form After wet finished
1) Accuracy of Apparatus installed
- pH meter < 0.1 < 0.1 0.1
- electronic balance 0.01 g 0.01 g no spec. required
- Aqueous extract shaker (traverse speed : 60/min,
rotary 30 cycles/min) with stopped
glass flake
shaker (traverse speed : 60/min,
rotary 30 cycles/min) with stopped
glass flake
No shaker, glass beaker and
glass cover
2) Extraction samples
- moistening before testing no control no control no control
- tested specimen sizes (2.00 +/- 0.05)g in 3 sets (2.00 +/- 0.05)g in 3 sets (10.0 +/- 0.1)g in 2 sets
- cut specimens dimen. 5mm x 5mm 5mm x 5mm no control but small pieces
3) Extracting solution
- extraction solvent / pH distilled water pH 5.0 - 7.5 or KC
solution with 0.1 mol/L
distilled water pH 5.0 - 7.5 or KC
solution with 0.1 mol/L
Boiled distilled water (10
mins and no cooling down) at
pH 7.0
- volume 100 ml. 100 ml. 250 ml.
4) Extraction condition
- extraction method Shaking/Stirring at room temp Shaking/Stirring at room temp Boiling
- extraction duration (120 +/- 5) min (120 +/- 5) min 10 min
- pH value assessed temp. Room temp (~25°C) Room temp (~25°C) Room temp (~25°C)
5) Buffer solution
- pH required 4.0, 7.0 or 9.0 4.0, 7.0 or 9.0 4.0, 7.0 or 10.0 and other
buffer sol.
- pH calculation result and
accuracy
average pH and variant <0.2. If not
retest another set of samples
average pH and variant <0.2. If not
retest another set of samples
average pH value and report
by 0.1 decimal place
APPENDIX I
Difference in China product requirements
in comparison to Gap Inc. protocols
Property Type A
Baby <36 months
Type B & C
Direct skin contact
Gap Inc.
Test Protocol
Colorfastness toWater* 3 -4 3 2.5 – 3.0
Colorfastness to Acid Perspiration* 3 -4 3 2.5 - 3.0
Colorfastness to Alkaline Perspiration* 3 -4 3 2.5 - 3.0
Colorfastness to Dry Rubbing* 4 3 4.0 (baby)
3.5 (Adult/Kid)
Colorfastness to Light 3 – 4 3.0 (all colors)
2.0 (neon)
pHValue 4.0 -7.5 4.0 -7.5 4.0-7.0 ( Wool, Nylon)
5.5-7.0 (Whites )
7.0 – 8.5 (Sulphur-dyed)
5.5 - 8.5 ( Others)
SameTest Requirements
Colorfastness to Saliva* 4 - 4.0
Formaldehyde (ppm) ≤ 20 75 20 (<36 months)
75 (Kids & Adult)
Denim Example
LAUNDRYWORK FLOW
1.Separation of batches during WP.
2.Never mix together with NA orders in production.
3.Mark down reference batch no. by permanent pen
on each panel.
4.Put one panel into each batch duringWP.
5.Collect all the washed panels from each batch and
conduct 100% pH test.
6.Record down test result for each batch and
present to garment factory during delivery.
7.Passed garment send to garment factory.
8.Failed batch should be re-washed till pass
•1L volumetric flasks, of grade A quality.
(Gap Merchant) & (Gap QA Lead) were the one point of contact regarding this
SOP.
Gap QA/ DA need to follow up on any China shipment based on ship cxl—need to
get a weekly shipment schedule exclusive for China PO’s.
No Shipment will be released without the Passed test report from Lab—Gap QA/
DA need to check with Gap Merch before releasing shipment.
If the test report is Failed, shipment will be on hold and will be escalated to the
respective category leads/ China team—may be need to rework on shipment and
delivery dates.
Tested Specimen from Lab should be returned and stored at Gap local office—
maintained by Gap merchant.
Points to be followed with immediate effect
CHINA PHTESTING SOP FOR QA/ DA
Gap QA/ DA need to pull out randomly one garment/ per color/ on every
China PO.
Sample drawn should be from the finished garment i.e., after wash
garment if it’s a Wash program.
This sample can be from the Laundry or Finishing or Packing—but should
be the bulk representative of shipment.
Sample drawn should have the below details;
1. Factory name
2. Style no.
3. PO no.
4. Color
5. QA name & Signature
6. Date
Contd…
SOP for drawing test samples from China PO
The details on the sample should be written as; (enclosed digitals)
1. Shirts—across inside collar/ yoke
2. Pants—across insideWaistband
3. Baby/ Crew neckT—across inside yoke
Gap QA/DA/ factory merchant should write a dispatch mail along with the
Lab request form to Gap local merchant Attn: kahled afifi
kahled_ afifi @gap.com cc; Gap immediate merchant managers.
Subject of the e-mail should in the below format;
China pH/Fcty name/ style #/color/Gap QA
Eg., China pH/ ING/153229/ blue/Mohsen
The body of the email in addition should have the ship cxl & planned
inspection date.
SOP for drawing test samples from China PO-Contd..
CONFIDENTIAL
P.18
China PH  SOP

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China PH SOP

  • 1. P.1
  • 2. China Retail Region CONFIDENTIAL P.2 Question and Answer China PH Control SOP Product Memo High Risk Testing in Local China Labs CHINA PHTESTING SOP FOR QA/ DA Agenda
  • 3. -Ensure that all China inbound production for washed products fall within the published pH standard, irrespective of Brand, product classification or geographies. -Current Focus : China PO’s. [ Gap and Gap Outlet brand] -Going ahead, would be applicable to other Gap Inc. Brands, like Old Navy. OBJECTIVE
  • 4. 1. pH Control Process Flow for China Retail Order 2. Responsibility of garment factory (pre-production) 3. Responsibility of laundry 4. Responsibility of garment factory (final) 5. Responsibility of Vendor DA, Gap QA, PI and Wet Processing (WP) Team 6. GB/T 7573 – 2009 pH test method TOPICS
  • 5. PH Control Process Flow for China Retail Order (Page 1) LaundryGarment Factory GAPQA Use significant indicator to classify garment for China Retail Order Prepare panels for Laundry to test pH for each batch Separate batches during WP Mark down reference batch number by permanent pen on each panel and put one panel into each batch Garment wet processing – target pH 6.5 Collect all the wash panels from each batch and conduct 100% pH Test Pass? Store received garment from Laundry batch by batch separately P2 Check Laundry pH Test reports Yes VMandWP Team ChinaPI Check the re-wash process No
  • 6. PH Control Process Flow for China Retail Order (Page 2) LaundryGarment Factory GAPQAVMandWP Team Locallab Send finished garments to finishing dept. Random audit 1 garment from bulk and forward to China PI for pH test validation Send 1 garment to for local lab (Intertek / BV) testing P2 Pass? Record the result in pH log No Yes Record the result in pH log and inform Garment Factory
  • 7. Preparation works for garment factory in pre-production stage : 1. Use different colors of string as an indicator to separate China Order vs. other orders. 2. Confirm to use correct China labeling at garments. 3. Follow to prepare fabric panels for pH test specimens. Test pH by each wash batch. - Size of fabric panel : 50cm X 50cm (edges over-locked) 4. Inform laundry this is a China Order officially. 5. Instruct to check / Test pH , separately, all Wash batches. 2. Responsibility of garment factory (pre-production)
  • 8. Laundry should : 1. Never mix up with China Order together with other orders as there’s different stringent and tightened pH requirements and set the target at pH 6.5 for all wash loads. 2. Should have a batch separation system during production. 3. Write down batch number on each panel (prepared by garment factory as pH test specimen) by permanent pen before load in washing bath. 4. Put one panel (batch no. written) into every single batch during wet processing. 5. Collect all the washed panels and conduct 100% pH test. 6. Passed quantity can send to garment factory for further process. 7. Failed batch should be re-washed to adjust to right pH range and clearly mentioned in failed report accompanying with passed re-test report before sending to garment factory. 8. Pack each batch separately during transportation. 3. Responsibility of laundry
  • 9. Garment factory should : 1. Study laundry pH test reports and select marginal passed batch to conduct random checking (at least one counter check by daily delivery). 2. Passed garment can send to do finishing works. 3. Urgently send ONE bulk garment to local lab testing, factory should hold the shipment for test result. 4. Responsibility of garment factory (finishing)
  • 10. Gap QA / Vendor DA : 1. Review test reports from laundry and garment factory. 2. Randomly select garment in finishing area and send to local lab for pH test to verify the accuracy of test result. (Note : To be reviewed the process regularly) 3. Inform PI / WP Team to follow up if test result in (2) failed. PI : 1. Conduct training of pH test method to garment factories and laundries. 2. Periodically calibrate pH test method of laundry and garment factory. 3. Inform pH test failure in China test report and request QA/WP to follow up the corrective action before any retesting. WP Team : 1. Review test reports from laundry during every factory visit and validate protocol used is as instructed. 2. Follow up failed report and re-wash condition and re-validate the washing recipe used in pH correction. 5. Responsibility of Vendor DA, Gap QA, PI and Wet Processing (WP) Team
  • 12. Glass flasks, with a capacity of 100 ml Mechanical shaker, providing rotational or reciprocating movement. A to-and fro movement at a rate of 60/min Beakers, chemically resistant, with a capacity of 150 ml. Glass rods, chemically resistant. Volumetric cylinder with a capacity of 100 ml. pH-meter (e.g. MettleToledo), with a glass electrode, capable of measuring to at least 0.01 pH-units. Electronic Balance, accurate to 0.01 g. 1L volumetric flasks, of grade A quality. Equipment Required for pHTest
  • 13. 1. Calibrate the pH-meter at the temperature of the extract to be measured. 2. Check the calibration of the pH-meter using two or three buffer solutions. Immerse the electrode several times in the same solution (KCl) used to prepare the extract until the indicated pH- value stabilizes 3. Decant the first extract into a beaker, immediately immerse the electrode to a depth of at least 10 mm and stir gently with a rod until the pH-value stabilizes (do not record the pH-value of this solution). 4. Decant the second extract into another beaker, immediately immerse the electrode, without washing, in the beaker to a depth of at least 10 mm and allow to stand without stirring until the pH-value stabilizes. Record this value. Measurement of the pH of the Aqueous Extract
  • 14. 5. Decant the third extract into another beaker, immediately immerse the electrode, without washing, in the beaker to a depth of at least 10 mm and allow to stand without stirring until the pH-value stabilizes. Record this value. 6. Record the pH-values of the second and third extracts as measurements. 7. If the difference between the two pH-values, expressed to the nearest 0.1 pH-units, is greater than 0.2, repeat the procedure with other test samples. When two valid measurements have been obtained, calculate the mean value. NOTE : If there have dispute when use water and KCL solution, then KCL solution as the extracting solution be recommended. Measurement of the pH of the Aqueous Extract (cont’d)
  • 15. GB/T7573 ISO3071 Water Distilled or de-ionized water (at least grade 3 water), having a pH 5.0-7.5 Extracting solution DIWater or 0.1 mol/L KCl solution If pH value is not within 5.0-7.5, the water shall be redistilled (acid or organic matter can be removed by distilling water from a solution of 1g/L KMnO4 and 4g/L NaOH. Alkalinity can be removed by distilling the water from a solution of dilute H2SO4. If the distilled water is not grade 3 water, may make 100mL water boiling 10 mins and cool to room temperature Testing procedure Placed each test specimen and 100 ml of extracting solution into a stoppered flask. Agitate the flask for a short period by hand to ensure that the textile material is properly wetted out. then shake it mechanically for 2 hr +/- 5 mins (MIN) then shake it mechanically for 2 hr +/- 5 mins Result Mean of two pH values, to the nearest 0.1 unit Differences between GB and ISO Method
  • 16. Differences among pH Detection Standards Test Method GB/T 7573-2009 ISO 3071-2005 AATCC 81-2006 (modified) Applicable to Any textile form Any textile form After wet finished 1) Accuracy of Apparatus installed - pH meter < 0.1 < 0.1 0.1 - electronic balance 0.01 g 0.01 g no spec. required - Aqueous extract shaker (traverse speed : 60/min, rotary 30 cycles/min) with stopped glass flake shaker (traverse speed : 60/min, rotary 30 cycles/min) with stopped glass flake No shaker, glass beaker and glass cover 2) Extraction samples - moistening before testing no control no control no control - tested specimen sizes (2.00 +/- 0.05)g in 3 sets (2.00 +/- 0.05)g in 3 sets (10.0 +/- 0.1)g in 2 sets - cut specimens dimen. 5mm x 5mm 5mm x 5mm no control but small pieces 3) Extracting solution - extraction solvent / pH distilled water pH 5.0 - 7.5 or KC solution with 0.1 mol/L distilled water pH 5.0 - 7.5 or KC solution with 0.1 mol/L Boiled distilled water (10 mins and no cooling down) at pH 7.0 - volume 100 ml. 100 ml. 250 ml. 4) Extraction condition - extraction method Shaking/Stirring at room temp Shaking/Stirring at room temp Boiling - extraction duration (120 +/- 5) min (120 +/- 5) min 10 min - pH value assessed temp. Room temp (~25°C) Room temp (~25°C) Room temp (~25°C) 5) Buffer solution - pH required 4.0, 7.0 or 9.0 4.0, 7.0 or 9.0 4.0, 7.0 or 10.0 and other buffer sol. - pH calculation result and accuracy average pH and variant <0.2. If not retest another set of samples average pH and variant <0.2. If not retest another set of samples average pH value and report by 0.1 decimal place
  • 17. APPENDIX I Difference in China product requirements in comparison to Gap Inc. protocols Property Type A Baby <36 months Type B & C Direct skin contact Gap Inc. Test Protocol Colorfastness toWater* 3 -4 3 2.5 – 3.0 Colorfastness to Acid Perspiration* 3 -4 3 2.5 - 3.0 Colorfastness to Alkaline Perspiration* 3 -4 3 2.5 - 3.0 Colorfastness to Dry Rubbing* 4 3 4.0 (baby) 3.5 (Adult/Kid) Colorfastness to Light 3 – 4 3.0 (all colors) 2.0 (neon) pHValue 4.0 -7.5 4.0 -7.5 4.0-7.0 ( Wool, Nylon) 5.5-7.0 (Whites ) 7.0 – 8.5 (Sulphur-dyed) 5.5 - 8.5 ( Others) SameTest Requirements Colorfastness to Saliva* 4 - 4.0 Formaldehyde (ppm) ≤ 20 75 20 (<36 months) 75 (Kids & Adult) Denim Example
  • 18. LAUNDRYWORK FLOW 1.Separation of batches during WP. 2.Never mix together with NA orders in production. 3.Mark down reference batch no. by permanent pen on each panel. 4.Put one panel into each batch duringWP. 5.Collect all the washed panels from each batch and conduct 100% pH test. 6.Record down test result for each batch and present to garment factory during delivery. 7.Passed garment send to garment factory. 8.Failed batch should be re-washed till pass
  • 19. •1L volumetric flasks, of grade A quality.
  • 20. (Gap Merchant) & (Gap QA Lead) were the one point of contact regarding this SOP. Gap QA/ DA need to follow up on any China shipment based on ship cxl—need to get a weekly shipment schedule exclusive for China PO’s. No Shipment will be released without the Passed test report from Lab—Gap QA/ DA need to check with Gap Merch before releasing shipment. If the test report is Failed, shipment will be on hold and will be escalated to the respective category leads/ China team—may be need to rework on shipment and delivery dates. Tested Specimen from Lab should be returned and stored at Gap local office— maintained by Gap merchant. Points to be followed with immediate effect CHINA PHTESTING SOP FOR QA/ DA
  • 21. Gap QA/ DA need to pull out randomly one garment/ per color/ on every China PO. Sample drawn should be from the finished garment i.e., after wash garment if it’s a Wash program. This sample can be from the Laundry or Finishing or Packing—but should be the bulk representative of shipment. Sample drawn should have the below details; 1. Factory name 2. Style no. 3. PO no. 4. Color 5. QA name & Signature 6. Date Contd… SOP for drawing test samples from China PO
  • 22. The details on the sample should be written as; (enclosed digitals) 1. Shirts—across inside collar/ yoke 2. Pants—across insideWaistband 3. Baby/ Crew neckT—across inside yoke Gap QA/DA/ factory merchant should write a dispatch mail along with the Lab request form to Gap local merchant Attn: kahled afifi kahled_ afifi @gap.com cc; Gap immediate merchant managers. Subject of the e-mail should in the below format; China pH/Fcty name/ style #/color/Gap QA Eg., China pH/ ING/153229/ blue/Mohsen The body of the email in addition should have the ship cxl & planned inspection date. SOP for drawing test samples from China PO-Contd..