• Cut 1/4inch from the upper
part of the sleeve pattern
and mark this section with
"F." This portion is
designated for the front
armhole of the blouse. The
front part of the sleeve
should then be recut.
Standards for set-inpockets are as
follows:
1.The upper and lower facing is
indispensable.
2.the seamline is smooth and unbroken
at the pocket opening.
3.the pouch is flat and smooth.
4.the end opening is reinforced.
13.
The Placket
• Aplacket is finished opening in front of a blouse, polo, shirt, and
even in long sleeves cuff opening. it is closed with fasteners.
14.
Fastener- are devicesused to close the openings of
garments and facilitate their wearing. These include
zippers, buttons, snaps, hook and eye and nylon
tapes.
15.
The three basictypes of zippers
are;
• CONVENTIONAL
• INVISIBLE
• SEPARATING
SEWING ON FASTENERS-Fasteners should be
supported with heavy cotton. For a large button
which will receive hard wear, fine thread is used. Use
over and under stitches and lock on the wrong sides
of the garment.
• An even line and accurate measuring save much
disappointment than a straight basting to work
the line where the center of the fastener will be,
then mark off with pins where each one will be
sewed.
23.
HOOK AND EYES- To sew hook and
eyes, fasten the top of the hook with a
loop of thread to the edge of the
garment to hold it firmly in place.
Then pass the thread to one eyelet
and stitch securely to the second
eyelet and then come back tot he
edge. Sew the eye on the opposite
edge so that when the hook is caught
in it, the edges of the garment will
meet and fasten the dress.
24.
SNAP FASTENER- aremade in pairs and must be put on so they
mateh. To do this, separate them one at a time as you sew,
beginning at one end. Pin the fastener and mark accurately in
correct position. Sew through the four head holes with over and
under stitches. Close the joining and place a pin directly opposite,
where you will sew on the other half of the fastener. As you go on
sewing a second fastener watch the spacing for a good result.
25.
Nylon tape isthe newest of the fasterners. It is made
of two tape strips, one with a looped snap surface and
the other with a hooked snap. When press together,
the surface of the strips are fastened firmly until
pulled apart. This is sewn in the shoulder paddings of
dresses.
26.
BUTTONHOLES - Buttonholeis where the button
passes through. It can be made by buttonholing
machine or handworked. Machine made buttonholes
are neatly and strongly made while handworked
buttonholes are carefully made by hands.
27.
PRELIMINARIES OF CONSTRUCTION
PROCESS;
•Soak the fabric for a few minutes. If
resistant to water add soap and
wash.
• Hang the fabric in a clothes line but
do not squeeze.
28.
Laying out PrintedFabrics Printed
fabrics with one direction need careful
position to be sure that the prints
match together. Patterns can only be
placed in one direction just like with
Corduroy and Velvet.
29.
Laying Pattern overthe fabric:
1. Clean the table to have a spacious place to work on.
2. Fold the material with the right face on the inside.
3. Lay the entire pattern on the lengthwise grain.
4. Place weights over the pattern or pin the pattern so as
not to be moved.
5. Trace all seam lines and necessary marks to have a
better result of work.
6. Add the necessary allowances before cutting.
7. Check all details to be assured that everything is traced
properly.
30.
Cutting the fabric:
1.Use sharp shears in cutting the fabric.
2. Move around the table while cutting.
3. Do not lift the fabric while cutting.You
might accidentally cut another piece.
4. Let the pattern be folded with the parts.
to ensure that all pieces are properly
attended to.
31.
SEAM ALLOWANCE Isan added amount of fabric beyond the
traced pattern. Seam allowances must be added to all
sewing edges:
1. Neck edge, collars, pockets and facings need 1/4 inch of
seam allowance.
2. Shoulder, arm holds and sleeve caps need 1/4 inch of
seam allowance.
3. Hem of sleeves, skirts, blouses, polos, shorts is 1 1/4"
allow. ance.
4. Back crotch of short pants or trousers is 1 1/4 allowance.
5. Side seams of blouses, blazers and skirts is 1" allowance.
32.
THE UNIT METHODOF CONSTRUCTION IN CLOTHING
Unit Construction - a systematic way of sewing together
the parts of a garment by piece or by unit. Unit - any
group of garments cut by piece. Advantages of the Unit
Method
1. To put together the smallest pieces for easy handling.
2. A completed part can be set aside and easily attached.
3. Speed is attained.
4. The individual will enjoy sewing because of the
systematic way constructing garments.