Cosmetics chemistry by Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

COSMETIC CHEMISTRY
Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal
SOS Organics 1

Topics Covered.......
2Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal
Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal
SOS Organics
 A general study of cosmetics,
 Classifications of cosmetics
 Preparation and uses of some
hair care products: Hair dye, hair
spray, Shampoo,

Women love wearing makeup, as they feel it can help them
enhance their beauty and make them feel and look more
attractive and gorgeous. While some cosmetics are useful for
making the skin feel soft, healthy and flawless, others assist in
adding colour to the skin, thereby giving the appearance of good
health and youth.
So, whether you want to hide the little imperfections or conceal
a blemish, cosmetics come in very handy at masking the small
flaws and marks on any part of the body. But then the question
arises - are cosmetics efficient enough to give you a good-
looking skin forever?
Introduction

The History of Cosmetics
 4000 BC: The Egyptians applied Mesdemet (made of Cu
and Pb ore ), bright green paste, to their faces, red clay
to their lips & cheeks and henna to dye nails them.
 1000 BC :In Greece they used chalk or white lead face
powder to have a white look.
 1500 BC : In China and Japan rice powder was used to
paint faces pasty white .
 100 AD :In Rome people put barley flour and butter on
their pimples, and sheep’s fat and blood on their
fingernails for polish. 4Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

 During the 20th century, with industrialization, the use of
cosmetics reached a new high as more and more people
started put on makeup to enhance their visual appeal.
 Now, it is hard to imagine anyone without blushes,
eyeliners and lipsticks being bare necessities that women
today need for even a “natural” look.
The History of Cosmetics

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which
regulates cosmetics in the United States defined cosmetics
as: ‘Intended to be applied to the human body for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering
the appearance without affecting the body's structure or
functions
Cosmetics (care substances)are all about changing /
improving the appearance or odour of the human body.
Cosmetics

 Cosmetics are regarded as a means of enhancing one's
complexion and beautifying the skin.
 Skin creams and lotions can be used to deep-cleanse the
skin, they remove the dirt and microorganisms from skin.
 Moisturizers offer excellent protection against cold winds
and act as a lubricating agent.
Benefits of Cosmetics

 There are special sun-protection creams/lotions that can
protect you from the harmful UV rays of the sun and
minimize the risk of skin cancer.
 Many cosmetics contain vitamins such as A, D, E and K.
These vitamins are essential for healthy skin and hair.

 Cosmetics are used not only for skin care, but also to treat
some skin problems. Dark spots or pimples on the face can be
hidden using cosmetic products like concealers. One can also
cover dark circles and wrinkles using various anti-aging creams
and eye makeup.
 Not only your face, you can also decorate your nails using
attractive nail colours.

 Deodorants and Perfumes help in making us feel fresh all
through the day.
 Apart from skin care, there are also varieties of shampoos and
conditioners available, which keep the hair clean, soft and
healthy.
 The wide range of hair colours available today also helps you
to modify and highlight your hair, in the colour and shade of
your choice.

Types of Cosmetics
Makeup can be classified into three categories:
Everyday, Medical and Theatrical
 The most common group includes everyday products worn to
enhance natural appearance.
 Some items also fall into the medical category and are used
for things like covering scars or reducing the visibility of
rashes.
 The last group is theatrical, television and film makeup, which
actors and actresses use so their features look better in bright
or harsh stage lights.
These categories include items that improve the appearance of
or highlights the face, eyes, lips or nails.

Types of
Cosmetics
Creams
/Emulsion
Hand
moisturizers
sunscreens
Solution
shampoos,
eye liners,
Suspension
hand
washes,
shampoos
Lotions
facial
moisturizer,
hair conditioner
Ointments
dressing hair,
cleaning
skin.
Gels
shaving
products,
toothpastes
Sticks
lipstick
underarm
deodorant
Capsules
eye shadow,
cheek shadow
cakes

 Solutions are the homogeneous mixtures of soluble
ingredients, (shampoos, body wash, hand cleansers,
mascaras, eye liners, colognes).
 Creams/ Emulsions are prepared by combining three
formula components, such as oil phase, aqueous phase
and an emulsifier, (hand moisturizers, make up, hair
conditioners, sunscreens).
 Lotions are less greasy and lighter counterparts of creams,
(facial moisturizers, leave-in hair conditioners and
moisturizing cleansers).
Different Kinds Of Cosmetics

Suspensions are similar to creams, suspensions are clear
solutions containing visible particles, such as gelatin beads
or inorganic minerals, spread throughout, (sunscreens, hand
washes and shampoos)
Ointments/ Pastes are anhydrous (contain no water),
extremely thick ,sticky and greasy products used for dressing
hair and cleaning skin.
Gels are thick, clear products characterized by a property
known as “shear thinning”. That is, they are thick when new
but get thin and flowable as you start applying force to use
them, (hair products, body washes, shaving products and
toothpastes).

Powders are an amalgamation of solid raw materials
which are ground together to get a fine powder, (baby
powder, eye powder, foot powder, talcum powder).
Sticks are solid delivery forms that are delivered by
rubbing them against the skin, (lipstick or underarm
deodorant).
Tablets & Capsules: The solid ingredients are blended well
with one another and pressed to get the desired shape,
(compact powder, eye shadow, cheek shadow cakes).

•The entire worldwide cosmetic
industry, sales reach about $170 Billion
dollars a year. It’s distributed pretty
uniformly around the world with
approximately $40 billion in the
Americas, $60 billion in Europe, $60
billion in Australia & Asia, and another
$10 billion in Africa.
•The Western world spends a bit more
per person but India and Asia are
quickly catching up.
Worldwide Cosmetic Market

The size of Indian Cosmetics Industry globally is $ 274 billion,
while that of the Indian cosmetic industry is $ 4.6 billion. The
current size of the Indian Cosmetic Industry is approx US$
600 million. Among these fastest growing segment is color
cosmetics, accounting for around US$ 60 million of the
market. Industry sources estimate a rapid growth rate of 20%
per annum across different segments of the cosmetics
industry reflecting with an increasing demand for all kinds of
beauty and personal care product. Growth in the Indian
Cosmetic Industry has come mainly from the low and
medium-priced categories that account for 90 % of the
cosmetics market in terms of volume.
Size of the Indian Cosmetic industry

20%
27%
10%
20%
23%
5 Primary Cosmetic Segments
Hair Care: 20%
Skin Care – 27%
Fragrance – 10%
Make-up – 20%
Other – 23%

• Hair Care Market includes conditioners, styling products, hair
color, and relaxers.
• Skin Care Market includes skin moisturizers, cleansers, facial
products, anti-acne, and anti-aging products.
• Make-up Market includes anything from lipstick to nail
polish, blush, eye-shadow, foundation.
• Fine Fragrance is the highest profit segment of the cosmetic
industry but consumers are choosy. Only a few brands can
last for a long time.
• The “other” category represents toothpaste, deodorants,
sunscreens, depilatories, and other personal care products
not yet mentioned.
5 Cosmetic Segments

 Lakmé is the Indian brand of cosmetics.
 Revlon is an American cosmetic for skin care, fragrance, and
Personal Care Company.
 Oriflame Cosmetics is a cosmetics group, founded in Sweden
 The L'Oréal Group is the world's largest cosmetics and
Beauty Company.
 Maybelline is a makeup brand sold worldwide and owned by
L'Oréal.
 Avon Products, Inc. is a US cosmetics, perfume and toy seller
with markets in over 140 countries across the world.
 ColorBar cosmetics are one of the leading brands of color
cosmetics in India.
Top leading Cosmetic Companies

‘Hair care' is care of hair on the human head, which may
be coloured, trimmed, shaved, plucked, or other treatments
such as waxing and threading.
These services are offered in salons, barbershops, and day
spas, and products are available commercially for home use.
Laser hair removal and electrolysis are also available, though
these are provided (in the US) by licensed professionals in
medical offices or speciality spas.
Hair care Cosmetics

Hair is much more complicated than it appears.
It helps transmit sensory information and creates gender identity.
Hair is important to the appearance of men and women. There is
hair on all the major visible surfaces of the body. It is also the only
body structure that is completely renewable without scarring.
The human Hair

Hair grows from hair follicles located in the dermis.
While hair is growing beneath the epidermis, it's outer covering is
soft. Once it goes past the epidermis, the outside layer hardens
into keratin. Inside the follicle, the hair is growing and is
"connected" to blood vessels and nerves.
The human Hair

Three main regions: root, shaft, and tip
 Root: The part that was growing in the follicle, Follicle, Hair
papilla: it contains capillaries, or tiny blood vessels, that
feed the cells. Hair bulb: The living part of the hair is bottom
part of the papilla. The follicle is surrounded by sheaths
These sheaths protect and mould the growing hair shaft.
The sebaceous gland is important because it produces
sebum which is a natural conditioner.
 Shaft: It is made up of dead, hard protein called keratin in
three layers; medulla, cortex and cuticle.
 Tip: The end of the hair farthest away from the root. The
hair is narrowest at the tip.
Parts of the Hair

Hair products are used to clean hair and the scalp of the skin to
maintain healthy hair and also used for hair styling these are
known as hair product. Hair care is an overall term for parts of
hygiene and cosmetology involving the hair on the human
head. Hair product will differ according to one's hair type and
according to various processes that can be applied to hair. Scalp
skin, just like any other skin on the body, must be kept healthy
to ensure a healthy body and healthy hair production. If the
scalp is not cleaned regularly, by the removal of dead skin cells,
toxins released through the skin or external hazards (such as
bacteria, viruses, and chemicals) may create a breeding ground
for infection.
Hair Care Products

Hair care Products
 Hair Dye
 Hair Shampoo
 Hair Spray
 Hair conditioners
 Hair setting lotions
 Hair tonics

 Hair colouring is the practice of changing the colour of
hair. The main reasons for this practice are cosmetic (to
cover white hairs, to change to a colour regarded as more
fashionable or desirable, or to restore the original hair
colour after it has been discoloured by hairdressing
processes or sun bleaching).
Hair Dye

 Hair dye is one of the oldest known beauty preparations,
and was used by ancient cultures in many parts of the
world.
Hair Dye

 Earlier the hair dyes were made
from plants, metallic
compounds, or a mixture of
both.
 Henna was known in many
parts of the world; it produces
a reddish dye. Indigo, is
combined with henna to make
light brown to black shades of
hair dye.
Hair Dye

 An extract of the flowers of the chamomile plant was long
used to lighten hair, and this is still used in many modern
hair preparations. The bark, leaves, or nutshells of many
trees were used for hair dyes. Wood from the brazilwood
tree, walnut leaves or nut husks. Some of these plant-
derived dyes were mixed with metals such as copper and
iron, to produce more lasting or richer shades.
Hair Dye

Hair colour was traditionally applied to colour the hair.
 The modern trend is to use several colors to produce streaks,
Highlighting (sections of hair are treated with lighteners),
Lowlighting, (sections of hair are treated with darker hair
color),
 ombre, (where hair is dark on the crown and bit by bit
becomes lighter toward the ends)
 splashlights (horizontal band of bleached hair stretches from
ear to ear).
Application techniques

Ingredients
of Hair dye
Dye
Alkalizers
Modifiers
Ammonia
Antioxidant
Additives
Hair Dye Ingredients

 Dyes: The dye chemicals are usually amino compounds. Metal
oxides, such as titanium dioxide and iron oxide, are often used
as pigments.
 Modifiers: They stabilize the dye pigments or otherwise act to
modify the shade. One commonly used - resorcinol.
 Alkalizers: Alkalizers are added to change the pH of the dye
formula, because the dyes work best in a highly alkaline
composition. (Ammonium hydroxide is a common alkalizer).
Ingredients of Hair dyes

 Antioxidants: Antioxidants protect the dye from oxidizing with
air. Most commonly used is sodium sulfite.
 Ammonia: used to open hair shaft for dye penetration.
 Agents which make the dye more or less permanent. Soaps,
wetting agents, fragrance, softening agents.
Ingredients of Hair dyes

Types of Hair Colouring
The four most common classifications are:
Permanent Hair Colour
Demi- permanent Hair Colour
Semi- permanent Hair Colour
Temporary Hair Colour

Permanent hair colour:
The main ingredients of the formulations are
1. Base: (Solution, emulsion , Gel, Powder, Shampoo),
2. Dye: Oxidation Base (Oxidizing agents are hydrogen
peroxide)
3. Alkali: the alkaline environment is mostly provided by
ammonia. (Ammonia opens the hair shaft pores so that
the dye can actually bond with the hair and speeds up
the reaction of the dye with the hair. Now people can
dye their hair without bleaching it).
4. Antioxidants: Ammonium Thioglycolate.

 Demi-permanent hair colour is hair colour that contains an
alkaline agent other than ammonia (ethanolamine, sodium
carbonate) and while always employed with a developer, the
concentration of hydrogen peroxide in that developer may
be lower than a permanent hair colour.

 Semi-permanent hair colour: Mainly based on basic dye
stuff of nitro amino dyes. These are usually red or yellow. A
mixture anionic and / or non ionic surfactant with a cation
active dye is used to get semi-transparent colouring.
Formation of anion cation colour complex. These colorants
give stronger coloration to the hair, and can withstand up to
7 to 8 shampooing.

 Temporary hair colour: These dyes or colorants impart
colour to the hair for a short time. Absorption of the dye
stuff takes place only on hair cuticle not penetrate in to
the cortex and medulla. These are easily removed with a
single shampooing. pH of the solution is adjusted at
about 5.

Dye chemicals are checked
and certified
Dye chemicals are dumped in a
tank, water is piped in and the
mix is agitated for 20 minutes at
700C
Pre-mix is added to larger tank
containing additional ingredients
(solvents, surfactants, alkalizers)
Hair Dye
Preparation of Hair dye

Henna is an orange dye commonly used as a deposit-only
hair colour whose active component, lawsone, binds
to keratin. It is therefore considered semi-permanent to
permanent, depending on a person's hair type. Indigo is
natural dye from a plant (Indigofera tinctoria, suffructicosa,
or arrecta) that can be added to henna or layered on top of
it to create brown to black colours in the hair. On the colour
wheel, henna is orange, and indigo is blue, so
as complementaries, the two colours work together to
create brown tones. Like henna, indigo may fade after one
application, but it becomes permanent on the hair with
repeated use.
Plant-based dyes

 A liquid or cream preparation of soap for washing HAIR to
remove the dirt, used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin
particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other
contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair.
 In the early 1930s, the first synthetic detergent shampoo
was introduced. The 1960s brought the detergent
technology we use today.
HAIR SHAMPOO

 Over the years, many improvements have been made
to shampoo formulations. In the personal care industry,
nearly all of the ingredients that can be used are classified
by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
(CTFA) in the governmentally approved collection known
as the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients
(INCI).
HAIR SHAMPOO

Ingredients of
Hair-
Shampoo
Foam
boosters
Thickeners
Water
Conditioning
Agents
Detergents
AdditivesPreservative
Hair Shampoo Ingredients

Ingredients of shampoo
 Water: Main ingredient of shampoo (70-80%).
 Detergents: Surfactant helps to clean the hair and strips
it of oil which is similar to what soap does. These are
extracted from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and soy bean
oil. Primary detergents used in shampoos are ammonium
lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate.

 Foam Boosters: primary detergents, they are also derived
from fatty acids and have both water soluble and oil
soluble characteristics. Typical materials include
cocamide DEA.
 Thickeners : NaCl

• Conditioning Agents: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride which is a polymer, dimethicone which is a
silicone, and quatemium 80, a quatemary agent.
• Preservatives: Two of the most common preservatives
used in shampoos are DMDM hydantoin and
methylparaben.
• Special additives: Natural materials such as botanical
extracts, natural oils, proteins, and vitamins all impart
special qualities and help sell shampoos. Additives such
as zinc pyrithione are included to address the problem of
dandruff.

Hydrophilic head
Hydrophobic tail
Water
Air
Surfactant molecule has
two parts—Hydrophilic
head & Hydrophobic tail.
Surfactant molecules in
aqueous solution concentrate
at the air–water interface with
the hydrophobic part oriented
toward the air side.
Surfactant behaviour in solution

When the concentration of surfactant increases, the interface
becomes saturated with surfactant molecules that penetrate
into the solution.
Water
Air

To minimize their interaction with water, the hydrophobic parts
of the surfactants interact together and form micelles in
solution. When Shampooing, Anionic surfactants containing
hydrophobic tailgets adsorbed to grease or dirt of hair. Thus,
these dirt are removed by further rinsing.
Water
Air
micelle

 Based on Appearance: Powder Shampoos, Liquid Shampoos
or Lotion/Gel Shampoos or Solid Cream/Cream Shampoos
Oil Shampoos , anti dandruff, medicated shampoo.
 Based on Use or Function: Conditioning Shampoo,
Antidandruff, Therapeutic, Baby shampoo.
 Based on Origin: Herbal, Synthetic
Classification of Hair Shampoos

Raw materials (Deionized
water, Conditioning
agents, Surfactants, other
additives) are poured into
large batch tank and
thoroughly mixed. The
mixture may be heated or
cooled to facilitate
blending
A sample from the batch is
sent to the quality Control
testing lab.
After the batch is approved, the
shampoos send to the filler,
which fills the measured amount
in empty bottles.
Hair Shampoo
Preparation of Hair Shampoo

DANDRUFF SHAMPOO (SELENIUM SULFIDE)
This medication is used to treat dandruff and a certain scalp
infection (seborrheic dermatitis). It reduces itching, flaking,
irritation, and redness of the scalp. Selenium sulfide is also
used for a condition that causes discoloration of
the skin (tinea versicolor). This medication belongs to a class
of medications called anti-infectives. It works by slowing the
growth of the yeast that causes the infection.

 Hair Spray is a common cosmetic product that is sprayed
onto hair to keep it stiff or in a certain style.
Hair Spray

 Weaker than hair gel, hair wax, or glue, it is sprayed to hold
styles for a long period. Using a pump or aerosol
spray nozzle, it sprays evenly over the hair. May leave hair
feeling "crunchy" unless brushed out. Hairspray is a solution
of polymers in a very volatile solvent. Spraying deposits a
stiff layer of the polymer on your hair after the solvent
evaporates.
Hair Spray

Ingredients
(Hair Spray)
Propellants
Holding
Agents
Solvents
Additives
Packaging
Hair spray Ingredients

 Holding agents: Hairsprays work by coating the hair with
polymers, which are long chain chemical compounds.
 Propellants: as the name implies, are responsible for
propelling the hairspray out of the can.
 Additives: Hairsprays contain a number of chemical additives
in addition to polymers and solvents

 Solvents: make up the largest portion by weight of an aerosol
hairspray
 Packaging: Aerosol hairsprays have traditionally been
packaged in containers made from tin plated steel or
aluminum.

The manufacture of aerosol hairspray requires highly
automated equipment.
Batching:
• The solvent is charged into the tank first and then
followed by the Polymers, Additives, Plasticizers,
neutralizing and anti- corrosive agents in large batch
tanks composed of stainless steel. The solvent makes
up the largest proportion of the formula. The tanks
are equipped with a large turbine mixer with blades
that are several feet in diameter for proper mixing.
Preparation of hair spray

Filling:
• The packaging components are staged on the filling machinery.
• A piston mechanism injects a precise amount of liquid into the
can.
• The gaseous propellant is shot into the cans and the valve cup
is immediately pressed.
• Cans are checked for bad valve seal or a leaky can and
removed.
• A cap is placed over the valve at the end of the filling line; this
prevents the aerosol from being accidentally activated during
shipping. Finally packed into boxes.
Preparation of hair spray

The by-products of aerosol hairspray are the environmentally
unfriendly VOCs emitted into the atmosphere, deplete the
ozone layer, these chemical by-products are also used in
inhalant abuse.
Harmful effects of Hair spray

Cosmetics today contain a wide range of harmful
chemicals which, if used in excess, slowly damage our skin
and body.
The average woman exposes her skin to over 100
different chemicals everyday in the form of make-up and
beautification products. Dangerous chemicals like sodium
sulphates, phthalates, triclosan and various reactive
acids present in most popular cosmetic products today are
absorbed by the skin into the bloodstream and lead to
numerous persistent side effects, have serious effects on
the user’s general health.
Side effects of Cosmetics

 Increases the chance of getting cancer. toxic ingredients
that can cause multiple kinds of cancers.
 Breathing Disorders. salicylates and lead-containing
lipsticks can lead to breathing difficulties that are similar
to asthmatic attacks.
 Damage To our Reproductive Systems. Butyl paraben in
particular was linked to DNA damage in men’s sperm, it
can lead to a terribly adverse impact on reproduction
processes and reproductive hormones. It could even lead
to infertility.

 Disruption of Thyroid Systems. Use of cosmetics over a
long period of time, can affect adversely your endocrine
system, particularly the thyroid gland.
 Allergic Reactions. It can produce allergic reactions in the
skin, eyes and hair, especially if used in excessive amounts,
(ethyl-paraben, butyl-paraben, isopropyl-paraben,
Salicylates. Sodium lauryl sulphate).

Skin Discoloration. A number of cosmetics, like creams, skin
toners, sunscreens and blushers can have bleaching and/or
darkening effects on the skin.
Potential Eye Infections. Use of excessive make-up on and
around the eyes can lead to redness, watery eyes.
Depression. Numerous of studies link cosmetic use with
depression and mood swings. Triclosan, parabens lead to
hormonal imbalances.

Go natural more often. Switch to natural remedies like
preparing pastes from fruits, vegetables, medicinal herbs, eating
healthy and drinking plenty of water.
Buy cosmetics (natural and organic) free from the harmful
chemicals.
In all your products, beware and look for the following
chemicals: parabens, sodium sulphates, phthalates, sodium
benzoate, triclosan, methylisothiazolinone, acrylates, salicylates,
butlene glycol, zirconium, tartrazine, nickel sulphate, potassium
bromate, colouring dyes aluminum, nitrosamines, octinoxate,
propylene glycol, oxybenzone, etc.
Alternative of synthetic Cosmetics

Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal 67
THANK YOU
Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal
SOS Organics

Cosmetics chemistry by Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal

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