DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS R.B.Chavan Dept. of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
PRESENT CONCEPT POLLUTERS MUST PAY CRADLE TO GRAVE  WOMB TO TOMB NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES, PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO LABLES GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST
COTTON DOMINATES READILY AVAILABLE AFFORDABLE PRICE HYDROPHILIC COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL CLIMATE BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY
CONVENTIONAL COTTON   CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO  FRIENDLY USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND  VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS  DURING COTTON CULTIVATION. PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS  RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY  PROCESSES WATER POLLUTION
COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING) RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO FRIENDLY COTTON INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS ORGANIC COTTON GREEN COTTON NATURAL COTTON ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR COLOURS NOT POPULAR ON  COMMERCIAL SCALE LOW STAPLE LENGTH INFERIOR STRENGTH POOR SPINABILITY REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON CULTIVATION NOT TO BE DYED ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING DYEING
ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL  FINISHES FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO  MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE PRODUCT VALUE ADDITION IMPART DESIR A BLE PROPERTIES
IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON EASY CARE/DURABLE PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING SOFTENING ENZYME/BIO FINISHING WATER PROOF BREATHABLE FINISHING SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES UV PROTECTION EMERGING FINISHES
EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY LOSS IN STRENGTH
FABRIC FINISHING PRE CURE POST CURE GARMENT FINSIHING DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES  PROCESS ROUTE
PRE CURE PROCESS   PAD    DRY    CURE   ·    MOST POPULAR PROCESS FOR  FABRIC FINISHING ·    UNIFORM DISTRUBUTION OF    CHEMICALS ·    BETTER PROCESS CONTROL   · CARRIED OUT AT MILL  LEVEL  
POST CURE PROCESS PAD    DRY  AT MILL LEVEL SENSITIZED FABRIC TRANSPORT TO GARMENT UNIT GARMENT MAKING PRESSING TO SET CREASES AT DESIRED PLACES CURE
STEPS PAD (60-70% PICK UP) DRY AT 70 o C,  8-10% MOISTURE CONTENT SANFORIZE (NO MOISTURE SPRAY) GARMENT MAKING GARMENT PRESSING  GARMENT CURING 150-160  o C
PRECAUTIONS PRE FINISHING STAGE     GOOD ABSORBANCY (<3sec)     FREE FROM SIZE     HIGH TENSILE AND TEAR STRENGTH    SUFFICIENT TO REMAIN ACCEPTABLE EVEN AFTER  50% LOSS ON FINISHING     USE MERCERIZED COTTON     ADEQUATE DYE FASTNESS      FREE FROM SOFTENER BEFORE FINISHING
PRECAUTIONS TO AVOID PRE MATURED CROSS  LINKING CAREFUL STORAGE OF SENSITIZED     FABRIC, SHIPMENT  BY AIR MANY STORE UNDER    REFRIGERATION SHOULD NOT BE STORED MORE    THAN 3 MONTHS
FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM MERITS PERMANENT CREASE SETING AT DESIRED PLACES NO RISK OF PRE MATURED CROSS LINKING GARMENT SEAM PUCKERING MINIMIZED
POINTS TO BE CONSIDERED CAREFUL SELECTION OF SEWING THREAD, BUTTON, ZIPS STABLE TO BATH CHEMICALS, HEAT FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM OFFERS ONLY ONE CHANCE ANY THING WRONG CAN NOT BE RECTIFIED RESIN STRIPPING AND REPROCESSING CAUSES MORE DAMAGE
GARMENT FINISHING METHODS DIP PROCESS  TUMBLE PROCESS
DIP PROCESS DIP GARMENT IN FINISH BATH (INSIDE OUT, M:L :: 1:5) WASHING MACHINE MAY BE USED ROTATE FOR 20 min. HYDROEXTRACT (70-80% PICK UP) TUMBLE DRY AT 70 o c, MOISTURE CONTENT 10-12% TURN THE GARMENT RIGHT SIDE OUT IRO/STEAM PRESS TO SET CREASES AT DESIRED PLACES CURE AT 150  o c – 160  o c for 8-10 min EXTRACTED SOLUTION MAY BE REUSED
TUMBLE METHOD PLACE GARMENTS (INSIDE OUT) IN WASHING MACHINE DRUM SATURATE WITH FINISH BATH BY SPRAY APPLICATION ROTATE DRUM FOR 20 min TAKE CARE TO AVOID EXCESSIVE DRIPPING OF CHEMICALS FROM GARMENT IF DRY SPOT, RESATURATE, TUMBLE FOR ADDITIONAL TIME HYDROEXTRACT OTHER STEPS SAME AS EARLIER PROCESS
IMPORTANT FEATURES M:L:: 1:0.85 –1:1 TUMBLE ROTATION SPEED 28-30 rpm TUMBLE DRYING TEMP. SHOULD NOT EXCEED  70  o c MOISTURE RETENTION AFTER DRYING 10-12%,  IF LESS RESATURATE AND DRY LOAD SIZE 50 Kg.
CHEMICALS USED CROSS LINKING AGENT LOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEU EXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER  CATALYST MOST COMMON MgCl 2  , CITRIC ACID WETTING AGENT HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION IMPART HAND IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE    AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE IMPART SOFT HAND IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY    SILICONE ELASTOMER IMPART SPRINGINESS IMPROVE STRENGTH   ACRYLATES IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE
TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPE CROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l MgCl 2   10-25 g/l CITRIC ACID   0.3 g/l SOFTENER (COMBINATION)  40 g/l WETTING AGENT  1 g/l pH     4-4.5
FINISHING STAGE AFTER DRYING RESIDUAL MOISTURE  CONTENT SHOULD  NOT BE < 10%.  LOW MOISTURE GIVES HIGH DRY CRA, LOSS IN STRENGTH GOOD WET CRA WHEN MOISTURE AFTER DRYING IS HIGH SULPHUR DYED GARMENT SHOULD BE  AVOIDED, LIBERATE ACID, PREMATURE RESIN CURING, LOSS IN STRENGTH 1-2% UREA ADDITION IN FINISH BATH CONTROLS FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE UREA REDUCES EFFICIENCY OF FINISH BATH, TAKE 10% EXTRA RESIN
STONE WASH AND OTHER   FINISHES ARE GIVEN BEFORE  WRINKLE FREE FINISH USE LOWER (I50 o c) FOR WHITE GARMENTS TO AVOID YELLOWING POCKETS,BELT,LOOPS,LABLES, SEWINGTHREAD,BUTTONS,ZIPPERS SHOULD BE RESISTANT TO FINISH BATH  CHEMICALS AND CURING HEAT GARMENT STAGE
QUALITY CONTROL   PHYSICAL  TESTS DRY AND WET CRA SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING %RESIN ADD-ON TENSILE STRENGTH ABRASION RESISTANCE DIMENSIONAL STBILITY  
CHEMICAL TEST Cuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE HYDROXIDE) PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE) ·       PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE ·       PUT 1-2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION        PUT COVER SLIDE ·      OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE ·      RATING 3-4 IS ACEPTABLE ·   RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS
SWELLING RATING MEANING NONE 5 FULLYCROSS  LINKED SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS  LINKED MODERATE 3 MODERATE  CROSS LINKED MODERATE TO   2 PRTIALLY CROSS    LINKED  HEAVY HEAVY, RAPID   1  LOW CROSS LINKED RAPID AND  0   NO CROSS LINKED DISSOLVES
ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED (DMeDHEU) EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING  DRYING AND CURING,  GARMENT STORAGE AND USE WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF  IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH ENVIRONMENT KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND  DERMATITIS EFFECTS ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm
  CONTROL OF FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE FROM DMDHEU   WASH AFTER FINISH ADDITION OF FORMALDEHYDE  ACCEPTOR/SCAVENGER LIKE UREA MODIFICATION OF DMDHEU TO  PRODUCE ZERO FORMALDEHYDE  ETHERIFIED PRODUCT ETHERIFIED DMDHEU IS MORE EXPENSIVE  AND LESS EFFECTIVE
POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs)   WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE  OF  BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF COTTON CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE GOOD CRA GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION DURABLE TO WASHING EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED  COMMERCIALIZATION 
CITRIC ACID  LOW PRICED TRICABOXYLIC ACID LESS EFFECTIVE, LESS DURABLE  COMPARED TO BTCA YELLOWING ON CURING
MECHANISM OF PCA CROSS LINKING DMDHEU FORMS ETHER BONDS WITH COTTON PCA FORMS ESTER BONDS ESTERIFICATION IN TWO STEPS STEP 1 DEHYDRATION OF TWO ADJACENT COOH GROUPS FORMATION OF ANHYDRIDE UNDER CURING CONDITIONS STEP 2 ESTERIFICATION WITH CELLULOSE  REACTION ACCELERATED IN PRESENCE OF ALKALI METAL SALTS OF PHOSPHORUS SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE MONO HYDRIDE (NaH 2 PO  2 .H 2 O) MOST SATISFACORY CATALYST ACCELERATE THE RATE OF ANHYDRIDE FORMATION AND CROSS LINKING
OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS PCA OTHER THAN BTCA SUITABLE GIVE CRA IN THE RANGE OF 285 DP RATING 4.3 - 4.7 VARIATION IN DURABILITY TO ALKALINE WASHING   ORDER OF DURABILITY -     BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID
DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS  NON ECO FRIENDLY     MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE      EXPENSIVE      REDUCING AGENT       AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF  OXYGEN FROM  WATER    INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE
COST OF BTCA HIGH COST OF BTCA   WAYS TO REDUCE COST SOPHISTICATED MANUFACTURE  PROCESS USE BTCA PASTE FORM WITHOUT  PURIFICATION  FINISHING COST MAY BE REDUCED  BY  MIXING OTHER PCAs TEA MAY BE USED TO REDUCE  FINISHING COST AND IMPROVE  FABRIC STRENGTH  
YELLOWING EFFECT OF CA UNDER CURING CONDITIONS  PRODUCTS FORMED ARE TRANS ACONITIC ACID,  ITACONIC  ACID, CITRACONIC  ACID YELLOW IN COLOUR
MINIMIZATION OF YELLOWING INCORPORATE TEA, N,N BIS HYDROXYETHYL  GLYCINE, BORIC ACID OR PEG TEA IS MOST EFFECTIVE TO SUPPRESS  YELLOWING    OH IN TEA REACT WITH OH IN CA     PREVENT CA TO DECOMPOSE TO  UNSATURATED ACIDS UNDER CURING FORMATION OF ACIDS RESPONSIBLE FOR  YELLOWING PREVENTED
POOR WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH PRESENCE OF OH IN CA REDUCES THE  STABILITY OF ESTER BOND WITH CELLULOSE DURING ALKALINE WASH WAY OUT MODIFY OH IN CA INCORPORATE POLY MALEIC ACID (PMA) IN  FINISH BATH -COOH OF PMA REACTS WITH OH OF CA   BLOCKS OH GROUP IN CA   ENHANCE WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH
SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH HIGH COST NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST YELLOWING THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL  DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE COMBINATION OF HOMOPOLYMER OF PMA AND TER  POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID  AND VINYL  ALCOHOL FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU
SOFTENERS SILICONE SOFTENERS   CLASSIFICATION   NON REACTIVE    REACTIVE    ORGANO FUNCTIONAL   NON REACTIVE BASED ON POLY DIMETHYL SILOXANES (PDMS) SOFTENING EFFECT NOT DURABLE DUE TO  ABSENCE OF REACTIVE GROUPS
SILICONE SOFTENERS REACTIVE SILICONES       PDMS POLYMER MODIFIED WITH SILANE H OR SILANOL FUNCTIONAL GROUP BETTER DURABILITY   ORGANO FUNCTIONAL SILLICONES ORGANO FUNCTIONAL REACTIVE  GROUPS INTRODUCED IN PDMS (AMINE, EPOXIDE, CARBOXY etc) IMPROVE ORIENTATION AND SUBSTANTIVITY ON FIBRE VERY SOFT FINISH (SUPER SOFT)  
ECO FRIENDLINESS PDMS PRESENT IN EFFLUENT IN THE FORM OF TINY  DISPERSED DROPLETS ATTACH TO SUSPENDED SOLIDS BEING WATER INSOLUBLE AND NON VOLATILE BECOME  MINOR PART OF SLUDGE   IF SLUDGE IS INCINERATED, SILICONE GETS CONVERTED TO SILICA,  WATER AND CO 2  AS  LAND FILL, INTRODUCE PDMS IN SOIL  NATURALLY GETS DEGRADED  THOUGH PDMS ARE HIGHLY RESISTANT TO BIO  DEGRADATION SOIL CONTACT BREAK DOWN TO LOW MOLECULAR  WEIGHT PRODUCTS DECOPOSITION PRODUCTS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO  BIOLOGICAL DECOMPOSITION EVENTUALLY TO  NATURAL SILICA.
EFFECTS PDMS IS ECOLOGYCALLY INERT NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC  BACTERIA DOES NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS  DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED  GERMINATION OR PLANT SURVIVAL DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE  AND ANIMAL LIFE NO SIGNIFICANT BOD NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS
WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH   IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE   LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER   WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS   SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000   SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR    SPORTS WEAR   SKI WEAR   TRACK SUITS   RAIN WEAR   MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING
CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE FABRICS   HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS     LAMINATED FABRICS     COATED FABRICS
HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS OBTAINED BY DENSLY WEAVING FINE  SMOOTH MICRO FIBRE YARNS WIND PROOF   EXCELLENT WATER VAPOUR  PERMEABILITY   NOT WATER RESISTANT EVEN AFTER  FINISHING   USED FOR HIGH FASHION SKI CLOTHING  WHERE WIND PROOFING AND WATER  VAPOUR PERMEABILITY ARE IMPORTANT USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS  WIND CHEATER
LAMINATED FABRICS ROTORY SCREEN OR SPRAY COATING OF  FABRIC WITH BREATHABLE ADHESIVE LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS  BREATHABLE BARRIER FILM LIKE PTFE BREATHABLE FILMS ARE MADE  THROUGH  BIAXIAL STRETCHING  MECHANICAL FIBRILATION   CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER  SQUARE INCH WITH A MAXIMUM PORE  SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN  GORETEX TWO AND THREE LAYER  LAMINATES OF POLYESTER FABRIC
COATED FABRICS IMPORTANT TECHNIQUES         SOLVENT EXCHANGE         PHASE SEPARATION  
SOLVENT EXCHANGE   DISSOLVE POLYMER IN WATER MISCIBLE SOLVENT THIN COATING ON TO FABRIC   DEVELOPMENT OF MICRO POROUS  STRUCTURE BY PASSAGE THROUGH  AQUEOUS POLYMER COAGULATION BATH   EXAMPLE POLYMER: POLYURETHANE SOLVENT: DMF  
PHASE SEPARATION DISSOLUTION OF COATING POLYMER IN A MIXTURE  OF SOLVENT AND HIGH BOILING POINT NON  SOLVENT  MIXTURE        COAT THE POLYMER, DRY        EVAPORATION OF SOLVENT DURING DRYING        NON SOLVENT STILL PRESENT        PRECIPITATION OF POLYMER AS MICRO POROUS    LAYER   UCE COAT 2000 (UCB SPECIALITY CHEMICALS)        POLY URETHANE COATING        SOLVENT: LOW BOILING METHYL ETHYLE KETONE        NON SOLVENT: HIGH BOILING PEG        HIGHLY MICRO POROUS COATING ON DRYING        REMOVAL OF PEG ON SUBSEQUENT WASHING.
BIO FINISHING APPLICATION OF CELLULASE  ENZYMES FOR FINISHING OF  CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND GARMENTS CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL  APPLICATION WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE WASH) ON INDIGO DYED DENIM PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING
MECHANISM     CELLULASE CONSISTS OF THREE ENZYMES WORKING TOGETHER SYNERGISTICALLY 1.  ENDOGLUCONASES OR ENDO CELLULASE : HYDROLYSE CELLULOSE RANDOMNLY 2. CELLOBIOHYDROLASE OR EXO CELLULASE: ATTACK CHAIN ENDS AND PRODUCE CELLOBUOSE 3. B-(1,4)-GLUCOSIDASE: HYDROLYZE CELLOBIOSE AND SMALL CHAIN OLIGOMERS TO GLUCOSE
ENZYME TYPES 1.  ACID STABLE  (pH 4.5-5.5) 2.  NEUTRAL  (pH 6.5-7) 3.  ALKALI STABLE    (pH 9-10)   TEMPERATURE RANGE  40-60 o C  
BIO POLISHING TREATMENT WITH CELLULASE ENZYM PARTIAL SURFACE HYDROLYSIS OF CELLULOSE   WEIGHT LOSS 3-5% STRENGTH LOSS 2-7% MERCERIZATION ENHANCES THE RATE OF ENZYMATIC HYDROLYSIS MOST POPULAR FOR BIOSTONING OF INDIGO DYED GARMENTS ELIMINATES OR DEVREASES QUANTITY OF PUMICE STONES THAT CAUSE DAMAGE TO MACHINE AVOIDS OCCURRENCE OF PUMICE DUST IN ENVIRONMENT AND IN GARMENT CREATING HARSH HANDLE NEUTRAL CELLULSES ARE PREFERRED FOR BIOSTONING.
ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS   PATHOGENIC BACTERIA ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA FUNGI GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE  WORLD ON THE DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS B HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC OR GARMENT
SURGICAL APPARELS A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD  ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE GROWTH  DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL  FOR THE PROTECTION OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND NURSE
UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY CLOTHING ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION  SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING
REQUIREMENTS OF ANTI BACTERIAL FINISH DURABILITY TO MULTIPLE  LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING NO TOXIC EFFECT ON WEARER ACCEPTABLE MOISTURE TRANSFER  PROPERTIES (BREATHABILITY) COMPATIBILITY WITH  AUXILIARIES AND OTHER  FINISHING CHEMICALS READY AVAILABILITY AT REASONABLE PRICE SHOULD NOT AFFECT FASTNESS  PROPERTIES OF DYES
PROTECTION MECHANISM   CONTROLLED RELEASE THE ANTI BACTERIAL AGENT IS RELEASED FROM FINISHED FABRIC AT A RATE SUFFICIENT TO KILL OR INHIBIT THE GROWTH OF BACTERIA REGENERATION MODEL SUBJECTING THE CONTAMINATED  FABRIC TO AGENCY THAT WOULD DESTROY THE BACTERIA. e.g. ADDITION OF BLEACHING AGENT DURING  LAUNDERING     EXPOSURE TO UV LIGHT
PROTECTION MECHANISM   BARRIER OR BLOCKING INSERTION OF PHYSICAL BARRIER FILM OR COATING WHICH IS IMPERVIOUS TO  TRANSMISSION OF MICRO ORGANISMS THROUGH FABRIC FILM OR COATING THAT HAVE  DIRECT SURFACE CONTACT ACTIVITY AGAINST BACTERIAL GROWTH
FINISHING TECHNIQUES   PAD-DRY-CURE APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG WITH CROSS LINKING  AGENT SUCH AS VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE  HYDROCHLORIDE) PHMB METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES
FINISHING TECHNIQUES GRAFTING          GRAFTING OF POLY-(2-METHYL-5-VINYL PYRIDINE) ONTO CELLULOSE IMMERSION IN AQUEOUS KI SOLUTION MATERIAL SLOWLY RELEASES IODINE TO IMPART ANTI BACTERIAL AND ANTI FUNGAL ACTIVITY USED AS SURGICAL DRESSING  
FINISHING TECHNIQUES BARRIER COATING COATING OF DOW CORNING 5700 (3-TRI METHOXY SILYL PROPYL DIMETHYL OCTADECYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE) ORGANO SILICONE POLYMER THE FINISH IS EFFECTIVE IN INHIBITING THE GROWTH OF ODOUR CAUSING BACTERIA STABLE TO 40 WASHES
SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES   IMPORTANT FOR LEISURE WEAR AND SPORTS WEAR WHERE SOILING IS MORE IMPORTANT FOR EASY CARE FINISHED GARMENTS MAJORITY OF SOIL RELEASE FINISHES ARE BASED ON MAKING FIBRE SURFACE HYDROPHILIC
SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES THREE MAJOR GROUP OF FINISHES CONTAINING -COOH GROUPS OXYETHYLENE O/OR HYDROXYL GROUPS FINISHES CONTAINING –COOH, OXYETHYLENE, -OH GROUPS MAY BE INCORPORATED IN THE EASY CARE FINISH BATH IMPROVE SOIL AND OIL STAIN RELEASE  DRAMATICALLY FLURO CHEMICALS PROVIDE GOOD SOIL, STAIN RELEASE AND WATER REPELLENCY
EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES   TRADITIONAL FINISH APPLICATION          PADDING        LOW WET PICK UP TECHNIQUES LIKE        LICK ROLL        POROUS BOWL        VACUUM EXTRACTION        FOAM APPLICTION ALTERNATE METHODS        LAMINATION        COATING
EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES   NEXTEC PROCESS ·       PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA ·       NOVEL PROCESS ·       INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED  OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER ·       CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER  RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT AFFECTING THE  FABRIC HANDLE ·       ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART  ·       WRINKLE RESISTANCE,  ·       SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE,  ·       UV PROTECTION  ·       FLAME RESISTANCE ·       MICROBIAL BARRIER
NEXTEC PROCESS   THIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION PROCESS ACHIEVED USING S ILICONE BASED POLYMERS POLYURETHANE POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY  OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING MULTI FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS  
PLASMA TREATMENT TREATMENT WITH IONIZED GASES PRODUCED BY ELECTRICAL DISCHARGE ·       HIGHLY SURFACE SPECIFIC  ·       DOES NOT AFFECT BULK PROPERTIED THE SURFACE PROPERTIES ENHANCED INCLUDE ·       WETTABILITY ·       ADHESION ·       CROSS LINKING ·       BIO COMPATIBILITY ·       CHEMICAL AFFINITY OR INERTNESS  
MERITS ·       LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION ·       DRY TREATMENT ·       ENVIRONMENT FRIEDNDLY ·       OFFER SCOPE FOR IMPROVEMENT IN    FUNCTIONAL FINISHES FOR COTTON  
USE OF BIO TECHNOLOGY BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE MAY USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES  WITH IPROVED PROPERTIES TO PRODUCE INNOVATIVE EFFECTS THROUGH FINSHING
UV PROTECTION ·     INCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON  EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV  RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF  OZONE LAYER ·     UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED  BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR  GARMENTS WITH SELECTED UV  ABSORBERS
CONCLUSIONS · DESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO  COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL  FINISHES ·       IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON ·      GIVE VALUE ADDITION ·      MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING  EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL  FINISHES  ·      IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW  CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCE FOR IMPARTING  DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC  AND GARMENTS.  

Development in finishing power point

  • 1.
    DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENTFRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS R.B.Chavan Dept. of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
  • 2.
    PRESENT CONCEPT POLLUTERSMUST PAY CRADLE TO GRAVE WOMB TO TOMB NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES, PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO LABLES GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST
  • 3.
    COTTON DOMINATES READILYAVAILABLE AFFORDABLE PRICE HYDROPHILIC COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL CLIMATE BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY
  • 4.
    CONVENTIONAL COTTON CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO FRIENDLY USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION. PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES WATER POLLUTION
  • 5.
    COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUTUSING FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING) RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO FRIENDLY COTTON INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS ORGANIC COTTON GREEN COTTON NATURAL COTTON ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
  • 6.
    NATURALLY COLOURED COTTONCULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR COLOURS NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE LOW STAPLE LENGTH INFERIOR STRENGTH POOR SPINABILITY REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON CULTIVATION NOT TO BE DYED ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING DYEING
  • 7.
    ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL FINISHES FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE PRODUCT VALUE ADDITION IMPART DESIR A BLE PROPERTIES
  • 8.
    IMPORTANT FINISHES FORCOTTON EASY CARE/DURABLE PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING SOFTENING ENZYME/BIO FINISHING WATER PROOF BREATHABLE FINISHING SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES UV PROTECTION EMERGING FINISHES
  • 9.
    EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREEFINISHING CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY LOSS IN STRENGTH
  • 10.
    FABRIC FINISHING PRECURE POST CURE GARMENT FINSIHING DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES PROCESS ROUTE
  • 11.
    PRE CURE PROCESS PAD  DRY  CURE ·    MOST POPULAR PROCESS FOR FABRIC FINISHING ·    UNIFORM DISTRUBUTION OF CHEMICALS ·    BETTER PROCESS CONTROL · CARRIED OUT AT MILL LEVEL  
  • 12.
    POST CURE PROCESSPAD  DRY AT MILL LEVEL SENSITIZED FABRIC TRANSPORT TO GARMENT UNIT GARMENT MAKING PRESSING TO SET CREASES AT DESIRED PLACES CURE
  • 13.
    STEPS PAD (60-70%PICK UP) DRY AT 70 o C, 8-10% MOISTURE CONTENT SANFORIZE (NO MOISTURE SPRAY) GARMENT MAKING GARMENT PRESSING GARMENT CURING 150-160 o C
  • 14.
    PRECAUTIONS PRE FINISHINGSTAGE     GOOD ABSORBANCY (<3sec)     FREE FROM SIZE     HIGH TENSILE AND TEAR STRENGTH    SUFFICIENT TO REMAIN ACCEPTABLE EVEN AFTER 50% LOSS ON FINISHING     USE MERCERIZED COTTON     ADEQUATE DYE FASTNESS     FREE FROM SOFTENER BEFORE FINISHING
  • 15.
    PRECAUTIONS TO AVOIDPRE MATURED CROSS LINKING CAREFUL STORAGE OF SENSITIZED   FABRIC, SHIPMENT BY AIR MANY STORE UNDER REFRIGERATION SHOULD NOT BE STORED MORE THAN 3 MONTHS
  • 16.
    FINISHING IN GARMENTFORM MERITS PERMANENT CREASE SETING AT DESIRED PLACES NO RISK OF PRE MATURED CROSS LINKING GARMENT SEAM PUCKERING MINIMIZED
  • 17.
    POINTS TO BECONSIDERED CAREFUL SELECTION OF SEWING THREAD, BUTTON, ZIPS STABLE TO BATH CHEMICALS, HEAT FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM OFFERS ONLY ONE CHANCE ANY THING WRONG CAN NOT BE RECTIFIED RESIN STRIPPING AND REPROCESSING CAUSES MORE DAMAGE
  • 18.
    GARMENT FINISHING METHODSDIP PROCESS TUMBLE PROCESS
  • 19.
    DIP PROCESS DIPGARMENT IN FINISH BATH (INSIDE OUT, M:L :: 1:5) WASHING MACHINE MAY BE USED ROTATE FOR 20 min. HYDROEXTRACT (70-80% PICK UP) TUMBLE DRY AT 70 o c, MOISTURE CONTENT 10-12% TURN THE GARMENT RIGHT SIDE OUT IRO/STEAM PRESS TO SET CREASES AT DESIRED PLACES CURE AT 150 o c – 160 o c for 8-10 min EXTRACTED SOLUTION MAY BE REUSED
  • 20.
    TUMBLE METHOD PLACEGARMENTS (INSIDE OUT) IN WASHING MACHINE DRUM SATURATE WITH FINISH BATH BY SPRAY APPLICATION ROTATE DRUM FOR 20 min TAKE CARE TO AVOID EXCESSIVE DRIPPING OF CHEMICALS FROM GARMENT IF DRY SPOT, RESATURATE, TUMBLE FOR ADDITIONAL TIME HYDROEXTRACT OTHER STEPS SAME AS EARLIER PROCESS
  • 21.
    IMPORTANT FEATURES M:L::1:0.85 –1:1 TUMBLE ROTATION SPEED 28-30 rpm TUMBLE DRYING TEMP. SHOULD NOT EXCEED 70 o c MOISTURE RETENTION AFTER DRYING 10-12%, IF LESS RESATURATE AND DRY LOAD SIZE 50 Kg.
  • 22.
    CHEMICALS USED CROSSLINKING AGENT LOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEU EXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER CATALYST MOST COMMON MgCl 2 , CITRIC ACID WETTING AGENT HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION IMPART HAND IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE IMPART SOFT HAND IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY SILICONE ELASTOMER IMPART SPRINGINESS IMPROVE STRENGTH ACRYLATES IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE
  • 23.
    TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPECROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l MgCl 2 10-25 g/l CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l WETTING AGENT 1 g/l pH 4-4.5
  • 24.
    FINISHING STAGE AFTERDRYING RESIDUAL MOISTURE CONTENT SHOULD NOT BE < 10%. LOW MOISTURE GIVES HIGH DRY CRA, LOSS IN STRENGTH GOOD WET CRA WHEN MOISTURE AFTER DRYING IS HIGH SULPHUR DYED GARMENT SHOULD BE AVOIDED, LIBERATE ACID, PREMATURE RESIN CURING, LOSS IN STRENGTH 1-2% UREA ADDITION IN FINISH BATH CONTROLS FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE UREA REDUCES EFFICIENCY OF FINISH BATH, TAKE 10% EXTRA RESIN
  • 25.
    STONE WASH ANDOTHER FINISHES ARE GIVEN BEFORE WRINKLE FREE FINISH USE LOWER (I50 o c) FOR WHITE GARMENTS TO AVOID YELLOWING POCKETS,BELT,LOOPS,LABLES, SEWINGTHREAD,BUTTONS,ZIPPERS SHOULD BE RESISTANT TO FINISH BATH CHEMICALS AND CURING HEAT GARMENT STAGE
  • 26.
    QUALITY CONTROL PHYSICAL TESTS DRY AND WET CRA SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING %RESIN ADD-ON TENSILE STRENGTH ABRASION RESISTANCE DIMENSIONAL STBILITY  
  • 27.
    CHEMICAL TEST CuenTEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE HYDROXIDE) PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE) ·      PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE ·      PUT 1-2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION       PUT COVER SLIDE ·      OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE ·      RATING 3-4 IS ACEPTABLE ·  RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS
  • 28.
    SWELLING RATING MEANINGNONE 5 FULLYCROSS LINKED SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS LINKED MODERATE 3 MODERATE CROSS LINKED MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS LINKED HEAVY HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED DISSOLVES
  • 29.
    ECO FRIENDLY CROSSLINKING AGENTS MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED (DMeDHEU) EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING DRYING AND CURING, GARMENT STORAGE AND USE WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH ENVIRONMENT KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND DERMATITIS EFFECTS ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm
  • 30.
      CONTROL OFFORMALDEHYDE RELEASE FROM DMDHEU   WASH AFTER FINISH ADDITION OF FORMALDEHYDE ACCEPTOR/SCAVENGER LIKE UREA MODIFICATION OF DMDHEU TO PRODUCE ZERO FORMALDEHYDE ETHERIFIED PRODUCT ETHERIFIED DMDHEU IS MORE EXPENSIVE AND LESS EFFECTIVE
  • 31.
    POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs)  WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE OF BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF COTTON CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE GOOD CRA GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION DURABLE TO WASHING EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED COMMERCIALIZATION 
  • 32.
    CITRIC ACID LOW PRICED TRICABOXYLIC ACID LESS EFFECTIVE, LESS DURABLE COMPARED TO BTCA YELLOWING ON CURING
  • 33.
    MECHANISM OF PCACROSS LINKING DMDHEU FORMS ETHER BONDS WITH COTTON PCA FORMS ESTER BONDS ESTERIFICATION IN TWO STEPS STEP 1 DEHYDRATION OF TWO ADJACENT COOH GROUPS FORMATION OF ANHYDRIDE UNDER CURING CONDITIONS STEP 2 ESTERIFICATION WITH CELLULOSE REACTION ACCELERATED IN PRESENCE OF ALKALI METAL SALTS OF PHOSPHORUS SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE MONO HYDRIDE (NaH 2 PO 2 .H 2 O) MOST SATISFACORY CATALYST ACCELERATE THE RATE OF ANHYDRIDE FORMATION AND CROSS LINKING
  • 34.
    OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDSPCA OTHER THAN BTCA SUITABLE GIVE CRA IN THE RANGE OF 285 DP RATING 4.3 - 4.7 VARIATION IN DURABILITY TO ALKALINE WASHING   ORDER OF DURABILITY -   BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID
  • 35.
    DEMERITS OF PCAFINISH PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY     MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE      EXPENSIVE      REDUCING AGENT      AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER   INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE
  • 36.
    COST OF BTCAHIGH COST OF BTCA   WAYS TO REDUCE COST SOPHISTICATED MANUFACTURE PROCESS USE BTCA PASTE FORM WITHOUT PURIFICATION FINISHING COST MAY BE REDUCED BY MIXING OTHER PCAs TEA MAY BE USED TO REDUCE FINISHING COST AND IMPROVE FABRIC STRENGTH  
  • 37.
    YELLOWING EFFECT OFCA UNDER CURING CONDITIONS PRODUCTS FORMED ARE TRANS ACONITIC ACID, ITACONIC ACID, CITRACONIC ACID YELLOW IN COLOUR
  • 38.
    MINIMIZATION OF YELLOWINGINCORPORATE TEA, N,N BIS HYDROXYETHYL GLYCINE, BORIC ACID OR PEG TEA IS MOST EFFECTIVE TO SUPPRESS YELLOWING    OH IN TEA REACT WITH OH IN CA    PREVENT CA TO DECOMPOSE TO UNSATURATED ACIDS UNDER CURING FORMATION OF ACIDS RESPONSIBLE FOR YELLOWING PREVENTED
  • 39.
    POOR WASH FASTNESSOF FINISH PRESENCE OF OH IN CA REDUCES THE STABILITY OF ESTER BOND WITH CELLULOSE DURING ALKALINE WASH WAY OUT MODIFY OH IN CA INCORPORATE POLY MALEIC ACID (PMA) IN FINISH BATH -COOH OF PMA REACTS WITH OH OF CA   BLOCKS OH GROUP IN CA   ENHANCE WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH
  • 40.
    SUMMARY OF PCAFINISH HIGH COST NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST YELLOWING THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE COMBINATION OF HOMOPOLYMER OF PMA AND TER POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL ALCOHOL FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU
  • 41.
    SOFTENERS SILICONE SOFTENERS  CLASSIFICATION   NON REACTIVE    REACTIVE    ORGANO FUNCTIONAL   NON REACTIVE BASED ON POLY DIMETHYL SILOXANES (PDMS) SOFTENING EFFECT NOT DURABLE DUE TO ABSENCE OF REACTIVE GROUPS
  • 42.
    SILICONE SOFTENERS REACTIVESILICONES       PDMS POLYMER MODIFIED WITH SILANE H OR SILANOL FUNCTIONAL GROUP BETTER DURABILITY   ORGANO FUNCTIONAL SILLICONES ORGANO FUNCTIONAL REACTIVE GROUPS INTRODUCED IN PDMS (AMINE, EPOXIDE, CARBOXY etc) IMPROVE ORIENTATION AND SUBSTANTIVITY ON FIBRE VERY SOFT FINISH (SUPER SOFT)  
  • 43.
    ECO FRIENDLINESS PDMSPRESENT IN EFFLUENT IN THE FORM OF TINY DISPERSED DROPLETS ATTACH TO SUSPENDED SOLIDS BEING WATER INSOLUBLE AND NON VOLATILE BECOME MINOR PART OF SLUDGE   IF SLUDGE IS INCINERATED, SILICONE GETS CONVERTED TO SILICA, WATER AND CO 2 AS LAND FILL, INTRODUCE PDMS IN SOIL NATURALLY GETS DEGRADED THOUGH PDMS ARE HIGHLY RESISTANT TO BIO DEGRADATION SOIL CONTACT BREAK DOWN TO LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT PRODUCTS DECOPOSITION PRODUCTS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO BIOLOGICAL DECOMPOSITION EVENTUALLY TO NATURAL SILICA.
  • 44.
    EFFECTS PDMS ISECOLOGYCALLY INERT NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC BACTERIA DOES NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED GERMINATION OR PLANT SURVIVAL DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND ANIMAL LIFE NO SIGNIFICANT BOD NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS
  • 45.
    WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLEFINISH   IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE   LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER   WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS   SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000   SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR   SPORTS WEAR   SKI WEAR   TRACK SUITS   RAIN WEAR   MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING
  • 46.
    CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLEFABRICS   HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS     LAMINATED FABRICS     COATED FABRICS
  • 47.
    HIGH DENSITY WOVENFABRICS OBTAINED BY DENSLY WEAVING FINE SMOOTH MICRO FIBRE YARNS WIND PROOF   EXCELLENT WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY   NOT WATER RESISTANT EVEN AFTER FINISHING   USED FOR HIGH FASHION SKI CLOTHING WHERE WIND PROOFING AND WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY ARE IMPORTANT USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND CHEATER
  • 48.
    LAMINATED FABRICS ROTORYSCREEN OR SPRAY COATING OF FABRIC WITH BREATHABLE ADHESIVE LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE BARRIER FILM LIKE PTFE BREATHABLE FILMS ARE MADE THROUGH BIAXIAL STRETCHING MECHANICAL FIBRILATION   CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE INCH WITH A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX TWO AND THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF POLYESTER FABRIC
  • 49.
    COATED FABRICS IMPORTANTTECHNIQUES       SOLVENT EXCHANGE       PHASE SEPARATION  
  • 50.
    SOLVENT EXCHANGE DISSOLVE POLYMER IN WATER MISCIBLE SOLVENT THIN COATING ON TO FABRIC   DEVELOPMENT OF MICRO POROUS STRUCTURE BY PASSAGE THROUGH AQUEOUS POLYMER COAGULATION BATH   EXAMPLE POLYMER: POLYURETHANE SOLVENT: DMF  
  • 51.
    PHASE SEPARATION DISSOLUTIONOF COATING POLYMER IN A MIXTURE OF SOLVENT AND HIGH BOILING POINT NON SOLVENT MIXTURE       COAT THE POLYMER, DRY       EVAPORATION OF SOLVENT DURING DRYING       NON SOLVENT STILL PRESENT       PRECIPITATION OF POLYMER AS MICRO POROUS LAYER   UCE COAT 2000 (UCB SPECIALITY CHEMICALS)       POLY URETHANE COATING       SOLVENT: LOW BOILING METHYL ETHYLE KETONE       NON SOLVENT: HIGH BOILING PEG       HIGHLY MICRO POROUS COATING ON DRYING       REMOVAL OF PEG ON SUBSEQUENT WASHING.
  • 52.
    BIO FINISHING APPLICATIONOF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND GARMENTS CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE WASH) ON INDIGO DYED DENIM PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING
  • 53.
    MECHANISM     CELLULASECONSISTS OF THREE ENZYMES WORKING TOGETHER SYNERGISTICALLY 1.  ENDOGLUCONASES OR ENDO CELLULASE : HYDROLYSE CELLULOSE RANDOMNLY 2. CELLOBIOHYDROLASE OR EXO CELLULASE: ATTACK CHAIN ENDS AND PRODUCE CELLOBUOSE 3. B-(1,4)-GLUCOSIDASE: HYDROLYZE CELLOBIOSE AND SMALL CHAIN OLIGOMERS TO GLUCOSE
  • 54.
    ENZYME TYPES 1. ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5) 2.  NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7) 3.  ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)   TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60 o C  
  • 55.
    BIO POLISHING TREATMENTWITH CELLULASE ENZYM PARTIAL SURFACE HYDROLYSIS OF CELLULOSE WEIGHT LOSS 3-5% STRENGTH LOSS 2-7% MERCERIZATION ENHANCES THE RATE OF ENZYMATIC HYDROLYSIS MOST POPULAR FOR BIOSTONING OF INDIGO DYED GARMENTS ELIMINATES OR DEVREASES QUANTITY OF PUMICE STONES THAT CAUSE DAMAGE TO MACHINE AVOIDS OCCURRENCE OF PUMICE DUST IN ENVIRONMENT AND IN GARMENT CREATING HARSH HANDLE NEUTRAL CELLULSES ARE PREFERRED FOR BIOSTONING.
  • 56.
    ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHCLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS PATHOGENIC BACTERIA ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA FUNGI GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON THE DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS B HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC OR GARMENT
  • 57.
    SURGICAL APPARELS ASURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL FOR THE PROTECTION OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND NURSE
  • 58.
    UNDER GARMENTS ANDBABY CLOTHING ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING
  • 59.
    REQUIREMENTS OF ANTIBACTERIAL FINISH DURABILITY TO MULTIPLE LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING NO TOXIC EFFECT ON WEARER ACCEPTABLE MOISTURE TRANSFER PROPERTIES (BREATHABILITY) COMPATIBILITY WITH AUXILIARIES AND OTHER FINISHING CHEMICALS READY AVAILABILITY AT REASONABLE PRICE SHOULD NOT AFFECT FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF DYES
  • 60.
    PROTECTION MECHANISM CONTROLLED RELEASE THE ANTI BACTERIAL AGENT IS RELEASED FROM FINISHED FABRIC AT A RATE SUFFICIENT TO KILL OR INHIBIT THE GROWTH OF BACTERIA REGENERATION MODEL SUBJECTING THE CONTAMINATED FABRIC TO AGENCY THAT WOULD DESTROY THE BACTERIA. e.g. ADDITION OF BLEACHING AGENT DURING LAUNDERING    EXPOSURE TO UV LIGHT
  • 61.
    PROTECTION MECHANISM BARRIER OR BLOCKING INSERTION OF PHYSICAL BARRIER FILM OR COATING WHICH IS IMPERVIOUS TO TRANSMISSION OF MICRO ORGANISMS THROUGH FABRIC FILM OR COATING THAT HAVE DIRECT SURFACE CONTACT ACTIVITY AGAINST BACTERIAL GROWTH
  • 62.
    FINISHING TECHNIQUES PAD-DRY-CURE APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE) PHMB METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES
  • 63.
    FINISHING TECHNIQUES GRAFTING        GRAFTING OF POLY-(2-METHYL-5-VINYL PYRIDINE) ONTO CELLULOSE IMMERSION IN AQUEOUS KI SOLUTION MATERIAL SLOWLY RELEASES IODINE TO IMPART ANTI BACTERIAL AND ANTI FUNGAL ACTIVITY USED AS SURGICAL DRESSING  
  • 64.
    FINISHING TECHNIQUES BARRIERCOATING COATING OF DOW CORNING 5700 (3-TRI METHOXY SILYL PROPYL DIMETHYL OCTADECYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE) ORGANO SILICONE POLYMER THE FINISH IS EFFECTIVE IN INHIBITING THE GROWTH OF ODOUR CAUSING BACTERIA STABLE TO 40 WASHES
  • 65.
    SOIL AND STAINRELEASE FINISHES IMPORTANT FOR LEISURE WEAR AND SPORTS WEAR WHERE SOILING IS MORE IMPORTANT FOR EASY CARE FINISHED GARMENTS MAJORITY OF SOIL RELEASE FINISHES ARE BASED ON MAKING FIBRE SURFACE HYDROPHILIC
  • 66.
    SOIL AND STAINRELEASE FINISHES THREE MAJOR GROUP OF FINISHES CONTAINING -COOH GROUPS OXYETHYLENE O/OR HYDROXYL GROUPS FINISHES CONTAINING –COOH, OXYETHYLENE, -OH GROUPS MAY BE INCORPORATED IN THE EASY CARE FINISH BATH IMPROVE SOIL AND OIL STAIN RELEASE DRAMATICALLY FLURO CHEMICALS PROVIDE GOOD SOIL, STAIN RELEASE AND WATER REPELLENCY
  • 67.
    EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES  TRADITIONAL FINISH APPLICATION       PADDING       LOW WET PICK UP TECHNIQUES LIKE       LICK ROLL       POROUS BOWL       VACUUM EXTRACTION       FOAM APPLICTION ALTERNATE METHODS       LAMINATION       COATING
  • 68.
    EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES  NEXTEC PROCESS ·      PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA ·      NOVEL PROCESS ·      INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER ·      CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT AFFECTING THE FABRIC HANDLE ·      ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART ·      WRINKLE RESISTANCE, ·      SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE, ·      UV PROTECTION ·      FLAME RESISTANCE ·      MICROBIAL BARRIER
  • 69.
    NEXTEC PROCESS THIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION PROCESS ACHIEVED USING S ILICONE BASED POLYMERS POLYURETHANE POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING MULTI FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS  
  • 70.
    PLASMA TREATMENT TREATMENTWITH IONIZED GASES PRODUCED BY ELECTRICAL DISCHARGE ·      HIGHLY SURFACE SPECIFIC ·      DOES NOT AFFECT BULK PROPERTIED THE SURFACE PROPERTIES ENHANCED INCLUDE ·      WETTABILITY ·      ADHESION ·      CROSS LINKING ·      BIO COMPATIBILITY ·      CHEMICAL AFFINITY OR INERTNESS  
  • 71.
    MERITS ·      LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION ·      DRY TREATMENT ·      ENVIRONMENT FRIEDNDLY ·      OFFER SCOPE FOR IMPROVEMENT IN FUNCTIONAL FINISHES FOR COTTON  
  • 72.
    USE OF BIOTECHNOLOGY BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE MAY USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES WITH IPROVED PROPERTIES TO PRODUCE INNOVATIVE EFFECTS THROUGH FINSHING
  • 73.
    UV PROTECTION ·    INCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF OZONE LAYER ·     UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR GARMENTS WITH SELECTED UV ABSORBERS
  • 74.
    CONCLUSIONS · DESIRABLEPROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL FINISHES ·      IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON ·      GIVE VALUE ADDITION ·      MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL FINISHES ·      IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCE FOR IMPARTING DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC AND GARMENTS.