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Fabric weave
- 1. DIFFERENT WEAVES OFWOVEN AND KNIT AND VARIOUS DEFECTS SUBMITTED BY: ARPITA TRIPATHY TULASI KUMAR NANDA
- 2. BASIC STRUCTURE OFWEAVE TWILL WEAVE SATIN WEAVE PLAIN WEAVE
- 3. FABRICS MADE OUTOF PLAIN WEAVE PLAIN WEAVE GAUZE CHIFFON GINGHA M CHAMBR AY TAFFETA CHINTZ BURLAP CANVAS
- 4. FABRICS MADE OUTOF TWILL WEAVE TWILL DENIM GARBARD INE COVERT CLOTH DRILL JERSEY TUSSAH WORSTED CHEVIOT
- 5. FABRICS MADE OUTOF SATIN WEAVE SATIN BROCADE BROCATELLE CREPE-SATIN VELVET SATIN PEAU DE SOIE
- 6. BASKET WEAVE/OXFORD WEAVE JACQUARD WEAVE RIBWEAVE DOBBY WEAVE LENO WEAVE CUT-PILE WEAVE UNCUT-PILE WEAVE SPECIAL TYPES OF WEAVE
- 7. RIB WEAVE CONSTRUCTION Ribis a basic weave which produces ribs on the fabric. It is a variation of plain weave. The construction follows the same basics of plain weave i.e., weft yarns going under and over the warp yarn. Normally one heavy weight yarn is used either as warp or weft.
- 8. PROPERTIES SOFT IN NATURE COMFORTABLETO WEAR ONLY STRETCHES ON THE BIAS VERSATILE FLEXIBLE LUSTUROUS FRAYS EASILY HIGHLY DURABLE CAN BE MADE WATER RESISTANT CREASE RESISTANT SMOOTH THIN
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- 11. LENO WEAVE CONSTRUCTION Aleno weave is created by twisting two yarns together for the warp yarns. These yarns create a helix-like structure. The weft yarns are interwoven through the holes created in the twisted warp yarns. This is done using a special loom attachment called a ‘Doup’ and this means that the interwoven warp and weft yarns are locked in place.
- 12. PROPERTIES SHEER DURABLE OPEN WEAVE GAUZE- LIKE LIGHT AND AIR CAN PASS THROUGH BREATH ABLE FLEXIBLE VERSATI LE AVAILAB LEIN VARIOUS COLORS NO THREAD SLIPPAG E
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- 14. RAW MATERIALS Leno weavefabrics can be made using many different fibres although one of the most common is silk
- 15. PILE WEAVE CONSTRUCTION Thiskind of weave is produced with an extra set of yarns(warp or filling) known as pile yarns. This means the fabric have a regular warp yarn and a extra set of yarn known as filling yarns. There are 2 types of Pile weave a) The warp pile fabric b) The filling pile fabric. If the pile yarns are cut it is known as cut pile and if not cut it is known as un cut pile fabric.
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- 18. RAW MATERIAL Many fibrescan be used in creating a pile weave, such as cotton, silk and wool. Synthetic fibres can also be used nowadays to create fabrics with different properties.
- 19. SATIN WEAVE CONSTRUCTION Thewarp yarns are evenly spaced across the loom and anchored at either end. Instead of the basic way the weft is usually taken over one warp yarn and under the next, in Satin weave it is passed over several and then under just one to anchor the weave. These long stretches of weft yarns are called ‘Floats.’ It is these floats that make the surface of the fabric so lustrous
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- 22. RAW MATERIAL Silk yarns,Viscose yarns and synthetic yarns(mostly lustrous yarn)
- 23. OXFORD/ MATT/ BASKETWEAVE CONSTRUCTION It is actually a variation of the Basket weave and uses a colored weft and a white warp. This creates a subtle basket effect with white overtones. This weave can be created using many different yarns in various weights and thicknesses.
- 24. PROPERTIES COARSE AND HEAVY COMFORTABLETO WEAR LARGER WEAVE BREATHABLE EASY TO CARE FOR WASHABLE HOLDS ITS SHAPE CASUAL FABRIC STURDY DURABLE HEAVIER THAN VOILE AND MUSLIN
- 25. END USES Oxford Shirts RoyalOxford weave is used in the manufacture of expensive formal shirts Garments that need to be breathable Shorts Sportswear
- 26. RAW MATERIAL Oxford weavewas made using primarily cotton, but nowadays many other fibres are used including Polyester, Viscose and other synthetic fibres.
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- 28. KNITS WARP KNIT TRICOT RASCHEL WEFTKNIT INTERLOCK SINGLE JERSY PURL RIB
- 29. RIB STITCH CONSTRUCTION Rib-knitfabrics have alternating lengthwise rows of plain and purl stitches constructed so that face and back of the fabric appear alike. One set of needles is placed vertically in a cylinder and the other set of needle is placed horizontally on a dial. In both machines one set of needles pull the loop to the front and the other set pulls the loop to the back of the fabric. Each set of needles alternately draws loops in its own direction, depending upon the width of the rib desired. Rib stitches can be 1X1, 2X2, 2X1, 3X1 etc.
- 30. PROPERTIES EXCELLENT WIDTH WISE ELASTIC GOOD SHAPE RETENTION BOTH SIDE SAME NO CURLING TENDENCYUNRAVELING OFFABRIC COURSE BY COURSE FROM EITHERR SIDE Thicker in width REVERSIBLE IN NATURE EXPENSIVE TO PRODUCE
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- 33. INTERLOCK • It isa variation of rib stitch. • It resembles two separate 1X1 rib fabric interknitted.
- 34. PROPERTIES FABRIC DOESNOT CURLAT EDGES Wales of eachside exactly apposite to each other and are locked together. FABRIC THICKNESS IS APPROXIMATELY TWICE THAN THAT OF SINGLE JERSY FABRIC CAN BE UNRAVELED FROM THE KNITTED LAST. APPEARNCE OF FRONT AND BACK IS SAME BETTER HUMIDITY REMOVAL PROPERTY BETTER HEAT INSULATION
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- 36. RAW MATERIAL USED WOOL,COTTON, ACRYLIC etc.,
- 37. PURL KNIT CONSTRUCTION Knownas link and link stitch It is made by flat bed and circular bed machines by using needles using hooks on both ends to alternately draw loops to the front of the fabric in one course and to the back in the next course It is a costly and also slow technique
- 38. PROPERTIES GOOD STRETCH IN ALL DIRECTION THICKER THEN JERSY KNITS CROSSWISE STRETCHIS LESS THEN A JERSY DOES NOT FRAY CAN UNRAVEL EASILY DOES NOT CURL
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- 40. RAW MATERIAL USED WOOL,COTTON, ACRYLIC
- 41. TRICOT KNIT CONSTRUCTION Themachine is has one or more warp beams mounted above it. Each set of the yarn from a warp beam is fed to a row of needles arranged across the width of the machine and is controlled by a yarn guide set up in a guide bar that is laid across the machine.
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- 43. PROPERTIES GOOD ELASTICITY BEST OF WARP KNITS CREASE RESISTANT INEXPENSIV EAND QUICK TO PRODUCE GOOD DRAPEABILITY
- 44. RAW MATERIAL USED WOOL,COTTON, ACRYLIC, POLYESTER ETC
- 45. RASCHEL KNIT MANUFACTURING Theraschel knit is made with latched needles rather then the bearded type used for tricot, Milanese and simplex. Raschel is made up of heavy yarns
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- 47. END USES FINE LACESAND NETS HEAVY CARPETS THERMAL UNDERWEAR SWIM SUIT HEAVY BLANLKET
- 48. RAW MATERIAL USED: Wool,acrylic, cotton etc.
- 50. • Color ofthe print smears or smudges from rubbing against an object before it becomes dry Color Drag • The print paste instead of being placed on the fabric is thrown or splattered onto the fabric surface Color splatter • The edges of the patterns are not sharp, clear lines but fuzzy lines. Frequently caused by improper singeing or improper thickened paste Fuzzy pattern • Printing rolls or screens improperly aligned so pattern parts do not meet properly. This imperfection is called out-of-fit or out-of-register Off register • Color streak across fabric resulting from printing machine being stopped during printing process and then starting again Stop mark Printing Defects
- 51. • One ormore colors of the print cause weekend areas where they were printed. Usually due to excessive use of injurious chemicals in the print paste. Found in discharged area of discharge prints. Tender spots • It is a printed surface which appears as rough as sharkskin. The main reason is the unsuitability of color paste and uneven adhesion. Blebbiness • motif blurs results due to unclear outline design. The low viscosity of the color paste. Concentration of the dye stuff in the print paste is too high which results into the high amount of hygroscopic printing agent Bleeding • Defect looks like scratches due to the warp and weft yarns. The yarns have been turned upside down. The insufficient penetration of color paste is the main cause of this defect. Flipped yarn • Caused due to Low viscosity of print paste. It occurs when the printed area bleeds out into the unprinted area. The result is a haloing or shadowing effect around the outline of the pattern design Flushing/ Wicking
- 52. • A misfitis a print defect caused by improper alignment of the screens. Also known as out of registration, misfits leave unprinted areas in the design. For example, a green leaf may overlap its black outline or print over another color. Misfits • Occurs when fabric creases underneath one of the screens during the printing process. The pattern is then printed on top of the crease, leaving a large unprinted area when the fabric returns to its relaxed state. Scrimps • Caused due to screen has holes in it that should have been covered. This could be because of ageing of the screen and eventual damage or just improper exposure to light. Unwanted pigment marking on Fabric • Color applied unevenly during printing.Mottled • Belt-like-stain appears vertical to the direction of roller printing Doctor mark
- 53. Listing Double printing Poorlyadjusted screen Crack of print pasteUneven printingUnprinted area Moiré Crack or Miss Alignment in Transfer Printed Fabric Printing Machine Stop
- 55. • Filling yarns(orcourses) are straight but not at right angles to the warp (or wales).caused by improper alignment on the tenter frame. Prevents proper joining of pattern parts in garment manufacture Bias Fabric(skew) • The filling yarns curve in the fabric and do not go straight across. Caused by improper tenter frame procedures or result of frame operating at too high a speed. Prevent joining of pattern parts in garment manufacture Bowed Fabric • Result from excessive amounts of or improper application of chemical finishing agents Boardy Fabric • Result from inadequate amounts or improper application of chemical finishing agents. The condition is sometimes called sleazy Limp Fabric • Results from excessive or improper application of chemical finishes Tender goods
- 56. • In producinga yarn, long fibers tightly-twisted produce a serviceable yarn. When short stable fibers are mixed into the yarn the result is a yarn that will not hold together. The short staple fibers will separate from the yarn and curl up in a ball, forming what is referred to as a pill. Pilling • Garment not Folded to Specifications, with proper Materials: • Cardboard, tissue or other specified packaging materials omitted • Garments not Buttoned, Fly's not • Closed, Incorrect Number of Pins Folding Defects • Frequently caused by the turning equipment used to reverse garments in finishingSeam Tears • Fabric does not have the same character or degree of finish throughout Uneven finish
- 58. • In wovenfabric a horizontal band of off shaded yarns extending from selvage to selvage. Caused by differences in filling yarn size or differences in tension of warp or filling yarns Barre • Color in a dyed fabric which rubs off rather easily onto other fabric surfaces. May be caused by inadequate scouring(soaping)at the completion of dyeing cycle Color Crocking • Loss of color from a dyed fabric when immersed in a liquid. The liquid subsequently becomes colored Color bleeding • Color of the dyed fabric does not match the standard color or referenced sample Off shade Dyeing Defects
- 59. • Shade changewhich appear as horizontal selvage to selvage change. Caused by filling change (new filling bobbin) or loom stop and subsequent start up Shade bar • One color and white where the dye of colored portion stains white portion sometimes called unclear cross dye Stained cross dye • A discolored area on cloth. Caused by foreign matter such as dirt,grease,oil or residues of sizing on the fabric being dyed. Stained, Streaked • Places in the fabric which have been excessively weakened usually by exposure to processing chemicals. When entire fabric is weakened it refer to as tender goods. Also occur in finishing and printing procedures Tender spots
- 60. • Difference inshade of a fabric from edge to edge or one end of a fabric to other called selvage to selvage shading or end to end shading Uneven shades(shading) • Caused due to tendering which takes place because Sulpher is converted into sulphuric acid after oxidation which is harmful for the cellulosic fibers. The defect occurred after washing the garment Hole in Sulfur Dyed Fabric • Causes unleveled penetration of dyes which in turn results into unleveled dyeing, which causes color variation. It refers to color that doesn't exactly match the standard or the prepared sample. • This may be due to faulty dye foundation or application or may be due to variation in dye lot. Creasing
- 61. • non-uniform dentspacing, wrong drawing-in, or count variations. Also, the variations in luster, reflectance of dye pick-up of adjacent groups arising out of differences in raw materials, blend composition or yarn constructions contribute for streaks. These are narrow, barre and dense stripes running along the warp direction. Warp streaks • excessive warp tension, late shedding, use of coarse reed with more number of ends per dent, bent reed wires, improper spacing of reed wires, wrong drawing, and insufficient troughing of shed, i.e. tension difference between top and bottom shed lines during beat up. Reediness • excessive tension in the weft feed package, especially in filaments, variability in pick density and difference in twist, color or shade of adjacent group of picks, difference in blend composition or in the cottons used. Weft bar Weaving Defects
- 62. • improper settingof anti crack motion, loose fitting of reed, loose or worn out crank, worn out crank arm, worn out crank shaft bearings, loose belt, worn out duck bills and beaters, weft fork not functioning properly, faulty take up, brake motion not acting instantaneously, shuttle striking on the weft fork due to weak picking, swing rail worn out, Weft crack: • irregular let-off, incorrect setting of holding and releasing pawls on the ratchet wheel of take-up motion, gears of take-up motion not meshing properly, and gear wheel teeth worn out or broken. Thick and thin places • Loops project from the surface of cloth either on one or both sides of a cloth because of a small portion of weft getting caught by the warp threads. The main reasons are late shedding, low warp tension and use of bad temples Weft loops
- 63. • improper alignmentof cone in weft feeder, lower twist in weft resulting in weft opening out in air-jet looms, grippers missing the picks, improper knotting of tail ends, and rough handling of cones are the main reasons for higher weft breaks. Weft breaks • Improper shuttle wire tension, bent shuttle jaw, shuttle crack, more tension on selvedge yarns, late shedding resulting in rubbing of shuttle to the selvedge and improper selection of selvedge weave for the fabric being woven are the main reasons for bad selvedge. Bad selvedge • Knot is defined as a knob or lump formed by interlacing portions of one or more flexible strands or a quantity of yarn, or thread, which varies with the fibre; it consists of a set of coils. Control in pirn winding, the winding to binding coils ratio can solve this problem Knot
- 64. • Higher diameterin yarn for a short distance can be due to improper piecing at spinning preparatory or drop in pressure on the drafting rollers for a short time. This also can happen due to not removing of spinners double, not piecing the end properly by removing the lapped materials, accumulation of fluff in condensers, cradles and in the necks of the top rollers Thick end and thick picks • A defect in woven fabric caused by a missing or out-of sequence yarn.Mispick • Fibre filaments that break in yarn due to friction leaving small clumps of loose fibres on the surface Pilling
- 65. Box marks High incidence ofwarp breaks Shuttle traps Broken picks Broken end Coarse pick Coarse end Tight end Float Double end Contamination of fluff Slough off Other Weaving defects
- 67. Yarn Defects SLUB Accumulation of flyand fluff on the machine parts. Poor carding. Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing Improperly clothed top roller clearers NEPS Accumulation of fly and fluff on the machine parts Poor carding. Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing Improperly clothed top roller clearers SNARL Higher than normal twist in the yarn Presence of too many long thin places in the yarn THICK AND THIN PLACES Eccentric top and bottom rollers, Insufficient pressure on top rollers, Improper meshing of gear wheels OIL STAINED YARN Careless oil in the moving parts, over head pulleys etc Piecing's made with oily or dirty fingers Careless material handlings
- 68. CRACKERS Mixing of cottons of widelydiffering staple length, Closer roller settings optimum temperature and relative humidity in the spinning shed OILY SLUB Accumulati on of oily fluff on machinery parts Negligence in segregating the oily waste from process waste HAIRINES Use of worn rings and lighter travellers Maintaining low relative humidity, closer roller settings and very high spindle speeds FOREIGN MATTER S Improper handling of travellers Improper preparation of mixings CORK SCREW YARN Feeding of two ends (instead of one ) in ring frame Lashing -in ends in ring frame
- 69. • Bad selvedgein woven fabric due to the faulty weaving. Here, warp ends being set too far apart for the thickness of the yarn or in finished fabric. Bad or defective selvedge • A defect in the woven fabric caused by a warp yarn that was broken during weaving or finishing Broken ends or warp • A filling yarn that is broken in the weaving of fabric Broken picks or weft Woven Fabric Defects
- 70. Loose warp: • Thistype of fault is produced in woven fabric when the tension of warp yarn is slow Loose weft or snarl: • It is produced in woven fabric due to the looseness of filling yarn. Double ends • This kind of fault is produced in woven fabric when the two ends of warp sticks get together after sizing Tight ends If the tension of warp yarn is more than the other ends present in the loom then this type of fault is produced in woven fabric
- 71. Float of warp •If someone pulls the fabric together the cloth roller intentionally or unintentionally then this kind of defect is produced in woven fabric Wrong end color • It is produced in woven fabric due to the wrong drawing of colored yarn Miss pick • This kind of defect is produced in woven fabric when operator starts a stopped machine without picking the broken weft from the shade Double pick It is produced in woven fabric when the cutter don’t work properly
- 72. Weft bar • Whencount of yarn varies from one cone to another cone then a bar of weft will be appeared in fabric after weaving Ball If the warp is too much hairy then the reed will create ball in warp yarn in between reed and heald shaft. If the ball is small enough to pass through the dent of reed then those will form the ball in fabric. Hole • A fabric imperfection in which one or several yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an opening Oil spot or stain • Discoloration on a local area of a substrate that may be resistant to remove by laundering or dry cleaning. It occurs during spinning, weaving or finishing. It is also often seen in the woven fabric.
- 73. Tails out: This kindof fault is produced in woven fabric if the cutter doesn’t work properly. Temple mark If the placement of ring in the temple bar is wrong or the pressure of temple to the fabrics is too high then this type of fault is produced Reed mark In woven fabric, a crack between the groups of warp ends either continuous or at intervals. It’s may be caused by the wrong drawing- in of the warp or damage to the reed wires Slub If the yarn contains unexpected slub in it then those slub will be appeared in the fabric as a fault. Thick and thin place Fabric defect in which fabric count varies more than a specified percentage from the intended count. If the thick or thin place is more than one inch (2.54cm) wide then it is considered as a major defect in fabric grading.
- 74. Dye Mark ▪Dye Spot Holes •by defective machine elements Ladder • Wales Collapse in straight line Missing Plush Loop ▪ Malfunctioning of loop Pin Marks ▪ Poorly adjusted stenter pin Knitted Fabric defects
- 75. Slub ▪Thickness of yarn Spirality ▪Overtwisted yarn Stain ▪Excessive oil, dirt
- 76. REFERENCES Textile: Fibre ToFabric Author- Corbman Fabric science 9th edition Author-Joseph James Pizzuto Textile leaner BlogSpot