Facial types conditions

Skin Types & Conditions
NVQ Level 2 Beauty
Therapy
Clare Hargreaves-Norris

There are various skin types and conditions
that you must be able to analyse in order to
give the client the best possible treatment
and advice. In order to be able to recognise
the skin types you must be able to understand
how to recognise the characteristics or
conditions that you will see.

There are a variety of factors that can
influence a person’s skin type and conditions

Hormones Age Stress
Incorrect
products
Genetics
Race and
colour
Living and
working
conditions
Smoking and
alcohol intake
Medication Illness Poor nutrition

Skin Conditions

The different skin conditions
 Sensitive
 Dehydrated
 Seborrhoea
 Comedone
 Papules & pustules
 Open pores
 Milia
 Broken capillaries
 Hyper pigmentation
 Hypo pigmentation
 Dermatosis papulosa
nigra
 Pseudo folliculitis
 Pseudo folliculitis
barbae
 Keloids
 Ingrowing hairs

Sensitive
Sensitivity can accompany any skin type and if present the
skin would be prone to irritation, erythema and broken
capillaries. There are two types of sensitive skin:
 Touch sensitive - is sensitive to touch, heat and
embarrassment and therefore needs to be treated gently.
Otherwise, it can be treated using products for its main skin
type.
 Allergic sensitive - is prone to allergic reactions and must be
treated with products that are designed for treating a
sensitive skin. They will contain very natural ingredients,
which have often been dermatologically tested for sensitive
skins. These products will normally be labelled hypoallergenic.

Dehydrated
The skin tissues are lacking in water and all skin types can be
affected. The characteristics of a dehydrated skin are:
 Superficial criss-cross lines.
 Broken capillaries.
 Skin feels tight.
 A clean, non-greasy tight shine is present in severe cases.
The factors that can contribute to a dehydrated skin are:
 Diet, due to lack of water intake (recommend 6-8 glasses of
water per day).
 Environment - air conditioning and central heating in the car,
home or workplace would cause dehydration.
 Medication that the client is taking.
 Illness - especially fevers which would cause loss of fluids
from the body.

Seborrhoea
This is the result of over active sebaceous
glands producing too much sebum, therefore
a greasy shine appears on the surface of the
skin. This condition accompanies oily and
combination skins.

Comedone
This is the technical term for a
blackhead. Comedones most
commonly accompany an oily or
combination skin. They are caused
by an overproduction of sebum
blocking the pore and when the
sebum encounters oxygen the
oxidising effect starts to darken
the sebum, turning it into a black
dot. Make-up and dirt may also
block the pore making the
comedone look even darker.
Comedones are extracted by gently
squeezing between fingers
protected by tissues or by using a
comedone extractor.

Papules and pustules
Papules are red spots caused by
inflammation of the sebaceous
gland. Pustules are yellow spots
also caused by inflammation of
the sebaceous glands; however,
infection is also present, in the
form of bacteria. They
commonly occur on oily and
combinations skins due to the
overactive sebaceous glands.
However, they can occur on
other skin types as hormonal
imbalances (often due to the
menstrual cycle or stress) can
cause them to appear.

Open Pores
The pores are more visible and
appear enlarged. Open pores are
common on oily areas of the skin.
Once the pores have enlarged they
can never return to normal size, so
you will often see open pores on
mature skins or on skins that have
previously been oily or combination.
Do not presume that just because
the pores are open that the skin is
oily, as this is a common mistake.

Milia
These are often present on
a dry skin and are caused by
overproduction of dry skin
cells causing a blockage of
the sebaceous gland. They
appear as a small white pearl
under the skins surface,
often around the eye or
cheek areas. Exfoliating and
applying moisturiser on a
regular basis can loosen
milia. Alternatively, a
qualified therapist can use a
sterile micro-lance to pierce
the skin and extract the
milia.

Broken Capillaries
Commonly found on the
cheeks or nose area these
appear as small red/pink
threads under the skins
surface, most. Broken
capillaries occur when the
capillary walls constrict
(narrow) and dilate (widen)
too quickly causing the
muscles in the walls to tear.
This in turn allows the blood
to seep out resulting in
broken capillaries.
Continued….

Broken Capillaries
Dehydrated, dry and sensitive skins often have thin skin
that provides less protection and therefore, these skin
types are the most commonly effected. Common causes of
broken capillaries are:
 Hot conditions.
 Wind blowing on the face.
 Burning i.e. sunburn.
 Moving from one extreme temperature to another.
 Pressure i.e. squeezing spots or glasses pressing on the face.
Broken capillaries can be prevented by avoiding all of the
above. Once formed they can be treated by a specialist
form of electrolysis. There are also specialist creams on
the market that aim to strengthen the capillary walls thus
reducing the redness.

Hyper Pigmentation
This is when the skin has areas of
darker coloured skin – it has
increased pigment production. In
general the darker the skin the
more pigment is present. The
colour of the skin is influenced by
the amount of melanin being
produced. Hyper pigmentation is
common during pregnancy due to
hormonal influences and also in old
age when people develop liver spots
(sometimes referred to as age
spots). To prevent pigmentation
patches occurring, advise the use
of a sun block. Darker patches of
skin can be disguised by the use of
a concealer.

Hypo Pigmentation
This is when the skin has
areas of paler coloured skin –
it has decreased pigment
production. A common
medical condition that would
display paler patches of skin
is vitiligo. Hypo pigmentation
can be disguised with the use
of a concealer. Also advise
the client to use a sun block
to protect against burning
caused by the sun’s rays.

Dermatosis Papulosa Nigra
This condition most often
occurs on the faces of people
of Hispanic or black origin and
consists of 1-5mm brown-black
papules which have a stuck-on
appearance. It can occur from
adolescence and is more
common in females than males.
It is also more common in
darker pigmented black skin
and may be hereditary. It can
be treated by advanced
electrolysis methods.

Pseudo Folliculitis
This is inflammation of the
hair follicles due to bacterial
or fungal infections. The area
around hair follicles looks
inflamed and acne-like, and
often extrudes puss. It can
occur in all skin and hair
types and is not always
related to shaving.

Pseudo Folliculitis Barbae
Commonly known as shaving bumps,
is a widespread problem among
people with curly hair and dark skin.
As the hair follicle grows out of the
skin, it immediately curls and re-enters
the skin. The skin reacts to
it as a foreign body and becomes
inflames and irritated, creating
bumps. Advise the use of an
electrical shaver where possible
(does not cut the hairs as short).
The only way to totally prevent the
condition reoccurring is for the
client to grow a beard.

Keloids
A keloid is a scar that does not know
when to stop growing. When the skin is
injured, cells grow back to fill in the
gap. In a keloid scar, the cells keep on
reproducing, the result being overgrown
scar tissue that looks shiny and is often
dome-shaped. They can range in colour
from slightly pink to red or dark brown.
They feel hard and thick and are always
raised above the surrounding skin.
People of African or Asian descent are
more likely to develop Keloids than
people with lighter skin. This condition
can be treated by surgery, laser,
cortisone injections or freezing.

Ingrowing Hairs
Ingrowing hairs are basically hairs
that are trapped below the skin
surface and there are 3 different
types that can develop:
 A coiled ingrowing hair
 An infected ingrowth
 A flat hair growing underneath the
skin
Ingrowing hairs can occur due to
dead skin cells building up over the
hair follicle. This is common after
shaving or waxing an area. The
client should be advised to exfoliate
and moisturise regularly to prevent
ingrowing hairs.

Skin Types

The main skin types are:
Oily
Dry
Combination
Normal
These skin types could be
present on a client who is:
Young
Mature

Oily
This skin type is most common in teenage years although can
be found on skins of all ages. It has overactive sebaceous
glands, which are controlled by the hormone levels. Common
characteristics that you will see all over the face on this
skin type are:
 Open pores.
 Papules (red spot).
 Pustules (pustular spot).
 Comedones.
 Seborrhoea, producing a greasy shine.
 A build up of dead skin cells making the skin appear coarse
in texture.

Dry
This skin type is often associated with mature skins
although can be found on skins of all ages. The sebaceous
glands of this skin type are under-active and do not produce
sufficient sebum. Using products that are too harsh for
the skin may also cause the skin to become dry. This skin
will often have:
 Dry flaky patches, which may become red and irritated.
 Tight pores.
 Eyebrow dandruff.
 Milia – often found on the skin around the eyes and cheeks.

Combination
This is a combination of 2 skin types with the skin
typically having:
 An oily ‘T Zone’ that comprises of the forehead,
nose and chin. You will see some or all of the
following: comedones, papules, pustules, open pore
and a greasy shine.
 The cheeks and neck will be either normal or dry.
In these areas you will see the recognised
characteristics for that skin type.

Normal
This skin type is quite rare and can only
truly be called normal if it is seen on a
young skin. It can be recognised by:
 Good skin tone and texture.
 Even colour.
 No signs of any of the characteristics
mentioned previously.

Mature
Within the beauty industry a client over the age of 25 is generally
classed as mature. A mature skin often has characteristics of a dry skin
although it can be present with any of the other skin types mentioned. A
mature skin will show signs of some, or all of the following in varying
degrees:
 Expression lines appear, particularly around the eye area.
 Loss of elasticity.
 Facial contours may become slack.
 Epidermis becomes thinner.
 Broken capillaries often appear around the eye area.
 Irregular patches of pigmentation form liver spots.
 Blood circulation is not as efficient and therefore the skin often appears
sallow.
 Metabolic rate slows down therefore waste products are not removed as
effectively and therefore the skin often looks puffy.
 Fatty deposits are often laid down.
 Pores look more enlarged as the skin is not as tight.

Young
A skin is classed as young up to the age of 25. It
will show none of the characteristics listed above.
It will therefore have:
 No expression lines.
 Good elasticity.
 No irregular pigmentation.
 Good blood supply.
 No dropped contours.

Facial types conditions

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