FGA-Lectuer-two Fundamental of garment production.pptx

INFORMATION SHEET-TWO
SEWING TOOLS and EQUIPMENT
•Garment construction starts with correct measurements on
hand used in drafting patterns, cutting and stitching the
fabric.
•Each of these steps requires some tools and equipment for
quick and accurate work.
•Knowledge of the equipment is very important to
communicate effectively in the workroom and to minimize
errors.

Categories of tools
•Garment construction requires a variety of tools that can be classified
according to use into the following categories:
 Measuring Tools
 Marking Tools
 Cutting Tools
 Sewing Tools
 Finishing / Pressing Tools
• These tools helps increase accuracy/quality of the
finished product, saves time and also simplify
tasks.

A/Measuring Tools
1. Measuring tape
 available in both inches and centimeters.
 marked with centimeters as well as inches to
facilitate the conversion from one system to
another.
 150 centimeters (60 inches) long.
 a flexible synthetic or fiberglass, which will not
tear or stretch to maintain accuracy.

2. Ruler or Yard Stick
•Meter stick or yard stick is the best device for
making or measuring long, straight
measurements on paper. Sticks of good quality
and that are smoothly finished should be used.

3. Triangular rulers/ triangles
• useful for checking straight yarn direction or
grain and pattern layouts, and for finding true
bias and squaring lines.

4. L -square or Tailor’s Square
•It resembles the letter L – with perfect right-angled corner.
•It is more accurate than ruler and convenient for
measuring skirt lengths or straight lines of material before
starting pattern layout.
•It is made of good quality, light weight, smoothly finished
hardwood.
•Sometimes it is available with French curve, useful to
mark corners and perpendiculars of the pattern.

5. Transparent plastic rulers
available in several sizes and styles, are used for
precision measuring, marking, and pattern
alteration.

6. Hem marker/skirt marker
•used to measure skirt hem lengths evenly
from the floor.
•It provides much quicker and more accurate
method of marking hems than yardstick.
•It is available in various types- Pin marker,
chalk marker and combination of pin and
chalk marker .

MARKING TOOLS
1. Tailor’s chalk
•The most common dress maker’s marking tool is
tailors chalk and it is made of either clay or wax.
•It is available in various colours like white, yellow,
blue, red etc with different sizes and shapes which
facilitates quick and efficient marking.

3. Dress Maker’s Carbon Paper
By using carbon paper constructional details such as shape of the pattern, cutting and stitching line
can easily be transferred on the material.
Care to be exercised while using carbon paper:-
 No carbon markings should never be placed on the right side of fabric.
 No lines to be marked boldly.
 The colour of the carbon must not show through the fabric.
 If the garment is underlined, marking may be made on the underlining
only.
 White carbon paper is recommended for colour fabrics, because it is
removed easily during cleaning.
•

CUTTING TOOLS
•Scissors and shears are the important tools to the
dress maker.
•Various types and sizes of scissors and shears are
designed to perform different constructional work.
•Common working principles of scissors and shears
are similar but their application is different.
Shear for heavy duty
Scissor for light duty

•types of shears and scissors are used in
clothing construction.
• Shears
• Scissors
• Rotary cutter

1. Dressmaking shears
•Dress making shears are heavy duty scissors which are designed
specifically with the needs of seamstresses in mind.
The distinguishing feature of dressmaker's shears:-
• is that the handle is offset from the blades, allowing them to be
used to cut fabric against a flat surface without distortion.
• one of the finger rings is typically larger than the other.
• the finger rings on scissors and shears are known as “bows”. The
large bow of a shear is usually on the side of the blade which
points towards the floor when in use.
• The length of the blade varies from 25 to 30 cm.

2. Pinking shears
► produce a notched cutting line (zigzag) which
gives a neat appearance to the inside of garments,
as these shears have saw tooth blades.
► used for pinking seams or decorative edges on
felt, suede, chintz, etc.
►used to add a ravel-resistant seam finish to loosely
woven fabric.
►Blade lengths range from 7" to 10 1/2“.

3. Electric shears
 used in sample rooms.
 a type of hand tool suitable for a variety of cutting
applications.
 essentially battery-powered shears.
 also known as power scissors or cordless scissors.
 Most varieties are powered by alkaline batteries, but a few
are powered by rechargeable batteries.
 They are ideal for cutting silk, nylon, and soft, hard-to-cut
fabric.

Scissors
•Scissors are hand operated cutting instruments.
• 5 to 6 inches long, used for light cutting, trimming,
clipping corners and cutting curves. designed for
snipping threads and trimming seams.
•also used for cutting various thin materials, such
as paper, cardboard, metal foil, thin plastic, cloth,
rope and wire.

1. EMBROIDERY SCISSORS:
• These are light weight cutting scissors with 3 to 4 inches
in size with narrow blade tapering into two sharp points.
2. BUTTONHOLE SCISSORS:
These scissors are adjusted to cut buttonholes of required
length.

3. Trimming scissors:
used for trimming or clipping seams and cutting
corners are 15 to 17.5 cm long with narrow
blades and tapered sharp points.

Rotary cutter
•helps in cutting more than five layers of cloth at a time.
•It is electrically operated having a round circular shaped blade with a
guard in the front of the blade.
•It is generally used in small garment manufacturing units.
•There are several sizes and types of rotary cutters available.
•Blade sizes range from 18 mm to 60 mm in diameter. Smaller
diameter blades make cutting out curves and details much easier;
whereas the larger-diameter blades make quick work of long, straight
cuts.

Con……………
Straight Knife
•has a straight, vertical blade with varying edge, an
electric motor, and a sharpening device.
• Its blade heights vary from 10cm to 33cm, more
accurate on curves.
•The greater the blade movement the faster the blade
cuts the fabric.
•It is versatile, cheaper, portable and, relatively
reliable& easy to maintain.

Con…….
Band knife
•One edge of the blade is sharpened; the blade is
usually narrower than a straight knife which
assists in the cutting of tight curves.

Notchers
•provide greater accuracy, consistent depth of
notch at a right angle to the edge.
• It is possible to make Both Straight notches
and V notches.
•There is also Hot Notchers, prevents fraying
of the fibers. This cannot be used with
thermoplastic fibers.

Con……
Computer controlled cutting machine
•is most accurate cutting m/c at high speed and it is flexible to
permit penetration and movement of the knife blade and also
its vacuum reduces the height of lay & holding it in its place.

A seam ripper
•is a pen-like device with a handle and curved
blade with a sharp point.
•It is used to remove unwanted stitches or
stitching mistakes. Cut every second or third
stitch on a flat seam. Be careful to only cut
threads of stitches not threads of fabric
•

SEWING TOOLS
 Needle
 Sewing threads
 Sewing aids

1. Hand sewing needles
•is a long, slender steel shaft, with an eye at
one end.
•The shaft tapers to a fine ball point tip or
wedge end.
•function to carry the thread through the fabric
while hand sewing.
• are designed in a variety of sizes, types, and
classifications developed according to specific
use.

•Hand needles are selected according to
the following factors
• Structure of fabric
• Weight and type of fabric
• Type of thread
• Size and weight of thread and
• Intended use

Machine sewing needles
•Sewing machine needles are made up of steel.
They are manufactured in different sizes and
types for both industrial and home sewing
machines such as
Ball-point needles
Sharp-point needles
Universal point needles
Denim needles
Leather needles

SEWING THREADS
• Sewing thread is an integral component of the garment
though it is often invisible.
• Typically, the cost of thread is less than 5% of the retail
selling price of the garment but 50% of the responsibility
of the garment’s performance is dependent on sewing
thread.
•cotton thread or cotton materials and polyester or polycot
thread for synthetics.
•Rayon threads are used for embroidery work.

SEWING AIDS
• Thimble:
• Needle threader:
• Pins

Con…………….
•Pin cushion
•Magnetic Pin cushions

Finishing/ pressing tools
• Once the garment is constructed, it is subjected to
neatening through trimming and pressing.
• Pressing is important at every stage of stitching,
because poor pressing can destroy the appearance
of a well-constructed garment.
• In addition to the sewing tools and sewing machine,
good pressing equipment is also essential.

Types Of Pressing Tools
1. Iron
• Types of irons available in the market like flat iron,
thermostatic, automatic, non-automatic, charcoal,
steam iron etc.
• Among all, the thermostatically controlled or
automatic electric irons are the best, in which the
temperature can be adjusted to various types of
materials.

2. Iron board
• Ironing boards can be free standing or mounted
depending on the available space and frequency
of use.
• Good padding should be provided to cover the
base and it should be made from a natural fiber
fabric like cotton or wool for best pressing.
• Foam pads are available for most ironing boards
but they do not allow moisture absorption. A thick
soft padding on the ironing board gives better
results.

3. Sleeve board
 A sleeve board allows pressing of narrow
garments sections such as sleeves and trouser
leg.

4. Tailor’s ham
 A tailor's ham or dressmaker's ham is similar to
a sleeve roll.

5. Point presser and pounding block
This is a pointed piece of wood attached to a
clapper.

7. Seam roll
A seam roll is a firmly packed cylindrical cushion
with a cotton cover on one half and wool on the
other.

8. Pressing mitt
• A pressing mitt has padded glove like cushion made
with a scotch proof heat reflecting surface on one
side and cotton on other side with a pocket to slip
hand into it and used as pressing surface for small
area.
• It is especially useful for pressing rounded sleeve
caps

Assignment
1. List and discuses about garment
manufacturing tools and submit on next period.

FGA-Lectuer-two Fundamental of garment production.pptx

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FGA-Lectuer-two Fundamental of garment production.pptx