Weaving, Advance Weaving, Tappet Loom, Dobby loom, Jacquard loom, Woven Design Project.

Weaving, Advance Weaving, Tappet Loom, Dobby loom, Jacquard loom, Woven Design Project.

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  A N IL K U M A R A S S I S T A N T P R O F E S S O R – D E P T . O F T E X T I L E D E S I G N D A D A L A K H M I C H A N D S T A T E U N I V E R S I T Y O F P E R F O R M I N G A N D V I S U A L A R T S , R O H T A K Woven Design Project Introduction of Jacquard loom
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  Woven Design Project JacquardLoom (Overview) Jacquard is a shedding device attached to the top of the hand loom or a power loom and controls a large number of warp threads with a view to produce the maximum variety of sheds (without any heald shaft) for beautiful and intricate ornamental large design fabrics. The Jacquard Loom is a mechanical loom that produces elaborate designs in an intricate weave. It was invented by Joseph-Marie Jacquard in the year 1804. Fig-01 (Jacquard loom )
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  Woven Design Project Joseph-MarieJacquard Fig-02 (Josheph- Marie Jacqaurd ) Born July 7, 1752 in Lyon, France. Son of a master silk weaver.  Learned the inner workings of the loom during his job as a draw boy.  Exhibited his first version of a loom for weaving figured silk in 1801
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  Woven Design Project Scopeof Jacquard Shedding: It can be used for a large design which can not be positive on tappet or dobby. (It can produce most complex or any design).  It can produce any shape of design.  One warp thread for each harness.  Most costly fabric is produced. (Costing: Jacquard>Dobby>Tappet).  No healed shaft is used.  Every thread is controlled individually.  It is possible to lift 100-1800 yarns at any instant. Many specialized type of jacquard have been developed for weaving particular type of fabric such as terry towel, Damask, Brocade etc.
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  Woven Design Project Differencesbetween Jacquard , Dobby and Tappet shedding. Sr. No Tappet Dobby Jacquard 1 Simple mechanism. Quite complex mechanism. Most complex mechanism. 2 Installation cost is low. Installation cost is medium. Installation cost is high. 3 2-8 yarns can be controlled collectively. 2-36 yarns can be controlled collectively. 2-1000 yarns can be controlled collectively. 4 Tappet is placed generally below the loom. Dobby is placed generally above the loom. Jacquard is placed generally above the loom. 5 In can produce basic design. It can produce square and rectangular design. It can produce any shape of design. 6 Heald shaft used. Heald shaft used. Harness cord used. 7 More Production. Less production. Less production.
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  Woven Design Project Fig:-3Jacquard weave Fig:-4 Jacquard weave
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  Woven Design Project (Understandingthe function of the loom)
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  Woven Design Project Toweave a fabric on loom, forming a shed is necessary. The tappet shedding is the simplest one. It can be used to weave plain, twill etc. Later, the dobby was invented. It can be used to weave more complicated weaves, such as diamond, diaper and some compound weaves. But dobby shedding can not fit the requirement of large pattern which need not only a small group warp threads lifting in same way, but also the single thread lifting as well. See Fig. above. So another loom is to be created to satisfy the demand. Fig:-1 Jacquard motifs
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  Woven Design Proje 1:hooks 2: knife 3:knife frame 4: neck cord 5: rod 6: grade 7: horizontal needle 8: needle broad 9: cylinder 10: spring box 11: spring 12: card Jacquard Machine Fig:- 2 line Diagram of Jacquard
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  Woven Design Project Theprinciples of the Jacquard shedding are described as below The warp threads are lifted by hooks 1, which are arranged in rows.  The hook is made of wire. The top bent part of hook can be engaged by the knife 2.  The knives are mounted in the knife frame 3, which reciprocates vertically once every pick. Each hook is connected with horizontal needle 7, which can deviate the hook to the left. Fig-3 Punch Card
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  Woven Design Project AnilKumar, Lecturer – Design, State University Of Performing And Visual Arts, Rohtak The right-hand ends of the needles protrude at the side of the machine, passing through the holes of needle board 8, which holds the ends of the needles in the proper position against the holes of cylinder 9. The left- hand end of the needles is positioned in the spring box 10. The spring 11 is intended to return the needle to initial position after the needle has been deviated by the card 12. If there is no hole in the card against the needle, the card presses the needle, moves the needle and shifting the hook to the left. The hook will not be engaged by the lifting knife. The warp thread remains in the lower position, forming the bottom part of the shed.
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  Woven Design Project Ifthere is a hole in the card opposite the needle, it is not deflected. The hook remains over the knife and at the next moment, the knife grasps it while going up, and lifts it. As a result, the harness cord and the warp thread are lifted. The warp thread forms the top part of the shed. The number of holes in the card determines the number of warp threads to be lifted in the particular shed, when this card operates.  And the number of cards in the chain equals the number of weft threads in the repeat.