Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltd

1 | P a g e
GOVERNMENT OF INDIA
MINISTRY OF TEXTILES
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, MUMBAI.
SUMMER TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
ON
JAYASHREE TEXTILES,RISHRA
Submitted By
SUMIT KUMAR
M/BFT/13/40(L)
B.F.TECH-5TH
SEM
NIFT MUMBAI
AS A PART OF FULFILLMENT FOR THE AWARD OF BACHELOR OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY 2012-2016
UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF
NITIN SALAVE
FACULTY
(DFT)
NIFT MUMBAI

2 | P a g e
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This is to thank everyone who has helped us and supported us through all the steps
that I took to complete our summer internship. Me, Sumit kumar, the students of
National Institute of Fashion Technology, mumbai, would like to thank Ms. Sritapa
Bera who has given me this wonderful opportunity for a summer internship in
Jayashree Textiles, Rishra.
I would also like to thank Mr. J.P.Behera who helped me in confirming our internships
for the summer and build the path for an opportunity to observe such a great linen
fabric manufacturing unit.
Also, I would like to extend my gratitude towards all the employees of Jayashree
textiles who helped me understand the workings of the industry. I would like to thank
them for their cooperation and help.

3 | P a g e
GOVERNMENT OF INDIA
MINISTRY OF TEXTILES
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
MUMBAI
APPROVAL CERTIFICATE
THIS IS TO CERTIFY THAT THE PROJECT WORK IN THE CURRICULUM AS A PART OF
FULFILLMENT OF THE B.F.TECH 7th
SEM ON THE SUMMER APPAREL INTERNSHIP “In
MATRIX CLOTHING PVT LTD. (GURGAON)”WHICH WAS CARRIED UNDER MY GUIDANCE
AND IS APPROVED FOR SUBMISSION OF ASSESSMENT.
Submitted By
SUMIT KUMAR
M/BFT/13/40(L)
B.F.TECH-7TH
SEM
NIFT MUMBAI
Place:……………………. SIR. NITIN
SALVE
Date:…………………….. FACULTY
(DFT,NIFT
MUMBAI)

4 | P a g e
CONTENTS
SERIAL NO. TOPIC PAGE NO.
1 About Jayashree Textiles 4
2 About linen and flax fibres 8
3 Process flow of linen fabric manufacture 12
4 Hank dyeing 13
5 Fabric Dyeing 19
6 Finishing 33
7 Inspection and quality control 43
8 Samples 72
9 Learning outcome 77
10 Bibliography 78

5 | P a g e
OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIP
1. To know the basics about fabric manufacturing unit.
2. To know in details about the working of the machine.
3. To know in details about the work environment.
4. To know about the processes in details.

6 | P a g e
COMPANY PROFILE
NAME OF COMPANY : JAYA SHREE TEXTILES
ADDRESS : HEAD OFFICE & PRODUCTION UNIT
Jaya Shree textiles
Aditya Birla Nuvo Limited
PO: Prabhasnagar 712249
Dist. Hooghly
West Bengal, India
PHONE NO : 26001200-700, +91-33-2600-1200,
91-33-2672 1146
WEBSITES : adityabirla_abnl.com, www.linenclub.org
FAX NO. 91-33-2672 2626
PRODUCT TYPE : Deals in all types of suiting, shirting and dress
Materials made up of flax and wool
TOTAL WORKERS : 8000
 Jaya shree textiles specializes in the manufacturing of all kinds of shirting, suiting and
dress materials
 Largest manufacturer of linen fabric in India
 The company have ISO 9001:2000, ISO 14001:2004, ISO 9002:1994, SA 8000,
OHSAS 18001
 Performance Excellence Trophy – Ramakrishna Bajaj Quality Award 2008
 Second Prize in textile sector, National Energy conservation Award – 2004 given by
the ministry of power, government of India

7 | P a g e
JAYASHREE TEXTILES
Jaya Shree has emerged as the clear leader in the linen business with 67 per cent
share in linen apparels. From a commodity product to a lifestyle icon, from mass
production to customized designs, from high cost producer to high value provider -
that's the turnaround story of Jaya Shree Textiles.
Jaya Shree Textiles, Aditya Birla Nuvo's textile division, is India’s top linen brand
manufacturing company. It is the only integrated linen factory in the country with
state-of-the-art facilities equipped with the latest spinning, weaving and finishing
system from Switzerland and Italy. A leading player in the domestic linen and worsted
yarn segment, the company has significantly revolutionized the Indian textile market
by popularizing ‘linen’ in India across a wide customer base with its brand Linen Club.
Jaya Shree Textiles has provided the evolving Indian fashion industry with an
international edge with its product portfolio containing 100 per cent pure linen sourced
from French and Belgium flax. The company also offers other blends with lyocell, silk,
rayon and wool cotton. Even at the intricate stages of dyeing and finishing, new
techniques are continuously developed to add brighter colours and more innovative
textures to the finished product, and topped off by the most delicate finishing
technology from Italy. The result: flawless fabric in over 3000 different weaves
textures and blends.
The company offers a wide range of products such as linen fabric, linen yarn, worsted
yarn and wool tops. It has a manufacturing facility at Rishra in West Bengal. Jaya
Shree Textiles has an international presence spanning six continents, with around 40
per cent of its revenues coming from exports.
Jaya Shree Textiles, Aditya Birla Nuvo's textile division, is India's top linen brand
manufacturing company. Jaya Shree Textiles a Unit of Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd. is a
leading player in Linen and Wool segment of the Global Textile Business. It has
significantly revolutionized the Indian and foreign textile market by popularizing ‘Linen’
across a wide customer base with its brand “Linen Club”.
Jaya Shree Textiles sells its products in over 50 countries, spanning all the six
continents of the World. It has an annual turnover of about Rs.600 crores. The
company offers a wide range of products such as Linen Yarn, Linen Fabric, Worsted
Yarn and Wool Tops.

8 | P a g e
Jaya Shree Textiles was established in 1949 at Rishra in Hooghly district of West
Bengal. It has successfully sailed through ups and downs of Textile Business and
today it has emerged as a leader in Linen and Wool Business in India. There were 42
Textile Mills operating in West Bengal in 1970s out of which only 4 - 5 mills have
survived and Jaya Shree Textiles is the only mill which has proven track record of
success. Keeping pace with the time and requirement it had changed the product
portfolio which shows the emphasis of strategic direction and skillful execution
The company has relevant international system certification viz. ISO 9001: 2000, ISO
14001: 2004, OHSAS 18001: 2007 and SA 8000: 2001. Also the Oeko Tex certificate
has been obtained towards testing for harmful substances according to Oeko Tex
Standard 100.
Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd. is a flagship Company of the Aditya Birla Group. It is a
diversified conglomerate in the billion-dollar league, with a dozen businesses under
its umbrella. The razor sharp focus on each business has made it a leading player in
most segments.

9 | P a g e
JAYASHREE TEXTILES
LINEN YARNS

10 | P a g e
GROUP VALUES
Jaya Shree Textiles is committed to the Group Values:
 Integrity
 Commitment
 Passion
 Seamlessness
 Speed
All the Staff Members has been covered through Workshops to give a complete insight of the
Group Values. The practices on these values are further reinforced in performance appraisal
in “Poornata” (HR – ERP). These values provide a strong foundation on which their practices
and business decisions are based.
MISSION
“To be a preferred supplier of wool tops, flax yarns, worsted yarns & fabrics to chosen market
segments and provide total customer satisfaction through thrust on cost, quality, speed and
innovation”

11 | P a g e
LINEN CLUB: FLAX SECTION
Flax which is also known as common flax or linseed with binomial name: Linum
Usitatissimum is a member of the genus Linum in the family Linaceae. Flax is grown
both for its seeds and for its fibres. Various parts of the plants have been used to
make fabric, dye, paper, medicines, fishing nets, hair gels, and soap.
Linen is a
cellulosic fibers derived from the stem of the flax plant or a fabric made from these
fibers. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous that cotton; they yield cool,
absorbent fabrics that wrinkle easily. Fabrics with linen-like texture and coolness but
with good wrinkle resistance can be produced from manufactured fibers and blends.
SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION:-
Kingdom: plantae
Family: Linaceae
Genus: Linum
Species: L. Usitatissimum
Binomial name: Linum Usitatissimum
FEATURES:-
 Higher moisture absorption capacity, almost double than cotton, makes it a
thirsty fabric. Linen allows the skin to breathe, and is extremely comfortable
under all weather conditions. Cool in summer, warm in winter and refreshed in
humid weather.
 Linen helps to protect the skin from harmful UV rays.
 Natural anti-bacterial health fabric.
 With repeated washing, the fabric attains new sheen and airiness which makes
it even more skin friendly.
 Extremely durable and wear resistant.
 Naturally anti-static and hence repels dust
 Naturally anti-bedsore.
 Pure linen influences the lowering of muscle tension.
 Extremely soft and supple.
Characteristics of Linen Fiber:-
Linen is comfortable, good strength, twice as strong as cotton, handwashable or dry-
cleanable, crisp hand tailors, well absorbent dyes and prints, well light weight to
heavy weight, no static or pilling problems, fair abrasion resistant etc. Basically
there are two types of properties of linen fibers. One is physical properties and
another is chemical properties.

12 | P a g e
Physical Properties of Linen:-
Physical properties of linen fibers are given below:-
1. Tensile Strength: Linen is a strong fiber. It has a tenacity of 5.5 to 6.5
gm/den. The strength is greater than cotton fiber.
2. Elongation at break: Linen does not stress easily. It has an elongation at
break of 2.7 to 3.5 %
3. Color: The color of linen fiber is yellowish to grey.
4. Length: 18 to 30 inch in length.
5. Lusture: It is brighter than cotton fiber and it is slightly silky.
6. Elastic Recovery: Linen fiber has not enough elastic recovery properties like
cotton fiber.
7. Specific Gravity: Specific gravity of linen fiber is 1.50.
8. Moisture Regain (MR %): Standard moisture regain is 10 to 12%.
9. Resiliency: Very poor.
10. Effect of Heat: Linen has an excellent resistance to degradation by heat. It is
less affected than cotton fiber by the heat.
11. Effect of Sun Light: Linen fiber is not affected by the sun light as others fiber.
It has enough ability to protect sun light.
Chemical Properties of Linen:-
Linen is a natural cellulosic fiber and it has some chemical properties. Chemical
properties of the linen fiber are given below:
1. Effect of Acids: Linen fiber is damaged by highly densified acids but low
dense acids does not affect if it is wash instantly after application of acids.
2. Effects of Alkalis: Linen has an excellent resistance to alkalis. It does not
affected by the strong alkalis.
3. Effects of Bleaching Agents: Cool chlorine and hypo-chlorine bleaching
agent does not affect the linen fiber properties.
4. Effect of Organic Solvent: Linen fiber has high resistance to normal cleaning
solvents.

13 | P a g e
5. Effect of Micro Organism: Linen fiber is attacked by fungi and bacteria.
Mildews will feed on linen fabric, rotting and weakling the materials. Mildews
and bacteria will flourish on linen under hot and humid condition. They can be
protected by impregnation with certain types of chemicals. Copper Nepthenate
is one of the chemical.
6. Effects of Insects: Linen fiber does not attacked by moth-grubs or beetles.
7. Dyes: It is not suitable to dye. But it can be dye by direct and vat dyes.
LOOKS:
 Retains the creases and wrinkles due to the individual body movements of the
wearer.
 It adapts easily to any lifestyle or occasion, whether for daily or special, formal
or informal use.
 Wrinkles of linen have its own way of expressions. Linen is tough, resistant
and nearly immortal.
 It has a natural sheen and extraordinary texture, which differentiates it with
other fabric.
BENEFITS OF LINEN:
 Highly absorbent
 Good heat conductor
 Feels cool to the touch
 Smooth and lint free
 Softens more with washings
 High natural lustre
 Dries quickly
 Ability to wick moisture
 Unlikely to stick to the skin
 Fabric is stronger in wet than dry
 Does not stretch
 Resists abrasion damage
 Has low elasticity, therefore keeps its shape
 Resists dirt and stains
 No pilling or lint tendencies
 Allergy free
Major End Uses Linen Fabric
Apparel:- Dresses, Suits, Separates, Skirts, Jackets, Pants, Blouses, Shirts,
Children's wear etc.

14 | P a g e
FLAX
 Linen is a bast fiber. Flax fibers vary in length from about 25 to 150 mm (1 to 6
in) and average 12-16 micrometers in diameter. There are two varieties:
shorter tow fibers used for coarser fabrics and longer line fibers used for finer
fabrics. Flax fibers can usually be identified by their “nodes” which add to the
flexibility and texture of the fabric.
 The cross-section of the linen fiber is made up of irregular polygonal shapes
which contribute to the coarse texture of the fabric.
FLAX
LINEN
MICROSCOPIC STRUCTURE OF LINEN

15 | P a g e
FABRIC PROCESSING
FLOW CHART OF FABRIC PROCESSING AT JAYSHREE TEXTILES
YARN DYED FABRICS
SINGEING
WASHING RANGE
STENTER
CALENDERING MACHINE
SANFORIZING
FOLDING
PIECE DYED FABRICS
SINGEING + DESIZING
CONTINUOUS BLEACHING RANGE
DYED FABRICS
STRETCH IN
STENTER
COLOR PAD
ROTATE
FOR 16 HRS
WASHING RANGE
STENTER(FINISH)
CALENDERING
MACHINE
SANFORIZING
FOLDING
WHITE FABRICS
SECOND TIME BLEACHING
STENTER(STRETCH/FINISH)
CALENDERING MACHINE
SANFORIZING
FOLDING

16 | P a g e
HANK DYEING SECTION
Head of the department : Mr. Subhash Chandra sir.
GOAL : On time delivery of correct shade with correct
Quality to the customer department.
CUSTOMERS : Weaving department
OUR PRODUCT : Linen (yarn dyeing)
Linen (yarn bleaching)
YARNS USED:
1. Linen (yarn)
FIBRES AND DYESTUFF:
1. Linen (cellulosic reactive)
OPERATIONAL FLOW OF DYEING PROCESS
Grey receipt Cone to hank
formation
Dyeing at HTHP
Delivery to
customer
department
Hank to cone
formation
Hot air dryer 2 Bowl padding
mangle(Water
sequeezer)

17 | P a g e
OPERATIONAL FLOW DYEING:-
MACHINES AT PLANT
1. HTHP machines – 8 of different capacities
2. Padding Mangle (SEQUZZER)– 2 Pcs
3. Hot Air Dryer – 2
4. Reeling m/c – 4
5. Cone winding m/c – 7
MACHINES AT LAB:
1. Spectrometer – for spectral analysis of shade
2. Autolab dispenser – for lab dispensing
3. Beaker dyeing machine with infra red heating
4. Launderometer – for fastness testing
5. Colour checking booth
LAB ACTIVITY:
1. Shade development
2. In process shade matching
3. Quality testing (fastness)
DAILY PRODUCTIONS:
1. Wool – 0.25 to 0.30 ton
2. S-R wool – 0.30 to 0.35 ton
3. Flax yarn – 1 to 1.5 ton
4. Others – 0.2 ton
2 tons under low demand
3-4 tons on full demand
The whole system is computerised and a complete database is maintained of all the
details.
Dyes used
1. Colour tex
2. Huntsman
3. Dystar
4. Clariant
5. Archdma

18 | P a g e
Chemical used
1. Ammonium sulphate
2. Hydrogen peroxide
3. Formic acid
4. Liquid ammonia
5. Albegal-B
6. Acetic acid
7. Dekol FB-SN
8. Albega set
9. Miraian-Q
10.Uvtex BBI (O.B.A))
11.Imerol MWP
12.Hostalux PR
13.Sirrix-antox
14.Sirrix ZUDI
15.Sodium silicate
HANK DYEING MACHINE

19 | P a g e
HANK
Hank dyeing
Some of the Machines used for dyeing and their details:-
M/C Make Capacity Qty of
m/c
M/c wt. Water
consumption
HTHP Flainox
(Italy)
2 kg
(Sampling)
1 Pcs 540 Kg 55 ltr
HTHP Flainox
(Italy)
30 kg
(Production)
4 Pcs ______ 1050 ltr
HTHP Flainox
(Italy)
60 kg
(Production)
2 Pcs ______ _______
HTHP Flainox
(Italy)
300 kg
(Production)
1 Pcs 3430 Kg 6250 ltr
Dyeing time:-
 Lighter shade:- 6 Hr

Darker shade:- 8 Hr

20 | P a g e
Dye used:-
Material(Yarns / hank) Dyes used
Linen Reactive
Dyeing temp:-
Material(Yarns / hank) Dyeing temp
Linen 50-60 °c
Process Flow for linen dyeing (Using Reactive dyeing)
Raw material(Hank)
Acetic acid (0.15gpl)
R.T(10 min cold wash)
Dekol (Dispersing agent)
R.T (5 min)
Dye
R.T (5 min)
Temp increase (1 °c / min)
Temp at 60 °c
Glauber salt (15-40 gpl)
30-60 min( According to depth of shade)

21 | P a g e
Soda ash ( Increasing ph)
ph 9-11
40-60 min( According to depth of shade)
Shade check
2 Cold wash (R.T)
Shade check
Neutrilization
(Acid wash- Acetic acid 0.3gpl)
R.T
Soaping (Dekol-0.5gpl)
60-80 °c
Cold wash
Drying

22 | P a g e
FABRIC DYEING SECTION
HEAD OF DEPARTMENT: Mr.O.P.Singh
In this section pure linen fabric or linen blends (linen and wool or linen and cotton) is
dyed. The fabrics are dyed in open width form.
PROCESS FLOWCHART:
Grey Department (batch formation of 2000-
3000 metre)
Singeing (for cotton) and demineralising
(wool)
After singeing 8 to 10 hours rotation is
given to the fabric rolls for effective working
of the enzymes
Bleaching as well as scouring
Post bleaching drying
Delivered for washing in the Washing
Range
Delivery to RFD area (ready for dyeing)
The fabric is dyed (Jigger Machine)
Finishing and Drying
Zero-Zero machine for giving shrinkage
Calendaring

23 | P a g e
SINGEING CUM DESIZING MACHINE
The verb ‘singe’ literally means ‘to burn superficially’. Technically, singeing refers to
the burning-off of. Loose fibres not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric
structure. Singeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is the burning off of
protruding fiber ends from the surface of the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print
patterns, mottled fabric surfaces, and pilling results.
 Loose yarns not firmly bound into the fabric structure;
 Protruding fibre ends sticking out of the textile yarns and/or fabrics.
Textiles materials are most commonly singed in woven or knitted fabric form or in
yarn form.
Machine Parameters:
 Machine name : OSHTOFF singeing machine
 Made : GERMANY
 Process : Gas singeing
 Source of flame : L.P.G.
 Pressure of L.P.G.: 1.5 bar
 Flame height : 6” approx
 Temperature of flame: 1100 ̊C
 Speed of fabrics : 100 m/min
 Colour of flame : Blue
 Flame intensity: Depends upon the G.L.M. of fabrics
 Three ways how the flame attacks the fabric:
 Direct: The flame is perpendicular on the fabric surface. This is the
process that is being used.

24 | P a g e
 Angular: The flame and the fabric surface creates an angle between
them.
 From below: The flame is provide from below on the fabric.
Table of GLM and Flame Intensity:
GLM Flame intensity
Upto 300 08
300 to 400 10
About 400 12
 No of gas burner: Two (2)
Note: Filaments are not singed in order to avoid bead formation on the surface of
fibre.
OSHTOFF SINGEING MACHINE

25 | P a g e
DESIZING
Desizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp yarns in woven fabrics. Sizing
agents are selected on the basis of type of fabric, environmental friendliness, ease of removal, cost
considerations, effluent treatment, etc.
Desizing, irrespective of what the desizing agent is, involves impregnation of the fabric with the
desizing agent, allowing the desizing agent to degrade or solubilise the size material, and finally to
wash out the degradation products.
Machine Parameter:
 Nip pressure: 0.8 bar
 Capacity of trough: 750 lit.
Chemical Recipe:
 Enzyme: 5 g/l
 Wetting agent: 4 g/l
 Complexer : 1 to 1.5 g/l
 Temperature: 85 ̊C
 pH : 6 to 9.5
 Speed: 80 to 100 m/min
 Enzyme used: Palkozyme Plus.
Process Sequence:
Pre-brushing unit Singeing Dancer Roll Post brushing
Batch formation Padding with desize(85 ◦
C)
Keep the batch in rotation for 8 to 12 hours

26 | P a g e
Rotation:
1. Ensure lift working properly
2. Batch should be rotated 8 to 12 hours
3. Ensure the right batch is given on desize washer as per the programme of
desize washer.
Desizing Process:
The major desizing processes are:
1. Enzymatic desizing of starches on cotton fabrics
2. Oxidative desizing
3. Acid desizing
4. Removal of water soluble sizes
Enzymatic Desizing
Enzymatic desizing is the classical desizing process of degrading starch size on
cotton fabrics using enzymes. Enzymes are complex organic, soluble bio-catalysts,
formed by living organisms, that catalyze chemical reaction in biological processes.
Enzymes are quite specific in their action on a particular substance. A small quantity
of enzyme is able to decompose a large quantity of the substance it acts upon.
Enzymes are usually named by the kind of substance degraded in the reaction it
catalyzes. Amylases is the enzyme that hydrolyses and reduces the molecular weight
of amylose and amylopectin molecules in starch, rendering it water that is soluble
enough to be washed off by the fabric. Effective enzymatic desizing require strict
control of pH, temperature, water hardness, electrolyte addition and choice of
surfactant.

27 | P a g e
Advantages of Enzymatic Desizing
 No damage to the fibre
 No usage of aggressive chemicals
 Wide variety of application processes, and
 High biodegradability
Disadvantages Enzymatic Desizing
Lower additional cleaning effect towards other impurities, no effect on certain
starches (e.g. tapioca starch) and possible loss of effectiveness through enzyme
poisons.
Removal of Water-soluble Sizes
Fabrics containing water soluble sizes can be desized by washing using hot water,
perhaps containing wetting agents and a mild alkali. The water replaces the size on
the outer surface of the fiber, and absorbs within the fiber to remove any size residue.

28 | P a g e
Bleaching in our open-width ranges is executed with a pad-steam bleaching process.
It combines a two step chemical process that
a) Demineralises the fabric and
b) Bleaches the fabric using Peroxide/Alkali liquor in combination with a steam
atmosphere.
Bleaching ranges vary in size and are available from 300 to 1200 kg/h. The process is
highly economical in water/steam/chemical consumption as compared with
discontinuous machines.
CHAMBER DETAILS :
CHAMBER 1 &2 : HOT WATER(90°C) WASH (CAPACITY : 1200L EACH)
3RD
CHAMBER : PEROXIDE, CAUSTIC SODA, STABILIZER AND WETTING
AGENT WASH (CAPACITY : 200L)
CHAMBER 4 (STEAMER) : STEAMED AT 99°C (contact time in steamer 2-2.5 min
for 90m)
CHAMBER 5 : HOT WATER(100°C) WASH + STEAM SPRAY (CAPACITY : 1800L)
CHAMBER 6 & 7 : : HOT WATER(90°C) WASH (CAPACITY : 1800L & 1200L
respectively)

29 | P a g e
8TH
CHAMBER(a&b) : COLD WASH - NEUTRALISATION WITH ACETIC ACID
(CAPACITY : 600L EACH)
WATER : MATERIAL RATIO : 6L/kg
Operating procedure
Before starting the machine
 First place the batch, which to run, at proper position feed side and lock in
base.
 Check all chemical storage tanks if filled upto optimum level.
 Open water and air main line.
 Open steam main valve.
 Switch on main switch.
 Switch on safety relay reset button in computer panel.
 Run the program number given in PLC according to m min.
Before shutting down the machine
 Firstly, temperature controllr system of every chamber should be put OFF in
PLC immediately after running last program.
 Check out in PLC if anything left switched on, if not, switch off the main switch.
 Close steam line main valve.
 Close water and air line main valve.
Maintenance check list
1. Compressed air pressure
2. Water pressure
3. Checking of lubricating oil in gear box
4. Mechanical seal checking of guide roll.
5. Checking of glass door sealing
6. Greasing of all bearings
7. Steam pressure
8. Checking of pneumatic cylinder of squeezing roll.
9. Checking of blow expander setting.
10.To check the air, steam and water line connection with condensate water line.

30 | P a g e
11.To check the steam trap, strainer and valves.
12.To clean the fluff from filter.
13.To check the closing pump joint connection and leakage
14.To check the dirty water lifting pump.
15.To clean the dirty drain water under the machine.
16.To check the batching device.
To clean around the machine.

31 | P a g e
ERBATECH WASHING RANGE
Erbatech is producing continous processing ranges for woven fabrics since the
beginning of the 1990’s. The modular machine concept for wovens is combining
excellent washing and bleaching results with high productivity and lowest water/
energy/ chemical consumption.
Machines can be executed with roller or drum type washing compartments,
depending on the application requirements. The ranges can be equipped with
squeezing units or vacuum technology for bath separation and final hydroextraction.
Washing after dyeing is a process that requires the right combination of
temperature/time/mechanics and chemistry. Our washing ranges are optimized for
each application and required capacity and provide the right mixture of these four
parameters. The rollers are made of solid stainless steel and combined with a
sophisticated sealing, bearing and drive system.
Savings and advantages of Open Width Processing Machines
Water: 50%
Steam: 40%
Power: 40%
Chemicals: 20%
Dyestuff: 15%
Other benefits include: No pilling/hairiness, no crease marks, no unevenness, and no
need of enzyme.

32 | P a g e
ERBATECH WASHING RANGE
MACHINE DETAILS:
 MAKE : ERBATECH, GERMANY
 MANUFACTURED IN : 2007
 NO OF CHAMBERS : 6
 NO OF FIBER CLEANING FILTERS : 2 (IN CHAMBER 2 & 4)
 CAPACITY OF CHAMBERS : 600 L
 MAXIMUM SPEED : 50m/min
 ROLLER WIDTH : 1900mm
 WORKING WIDTH : 1700mm
 THREADING LENGTH : 120 m
CHAMBER DETAILS
 CHAMBER 1 &2 : WATER WASH
 3RD
CHAMBER : SOAP(RSD) WASH
 CHAMBER 4 & 5 : WATER WASH
 6TH
CHAMBER : NEUTRALISATION WITH ACETIC ACID
 WATER : MATERIAL RATIO : 6L/kg
Water enters the 5th
chamber and is progressively paseed to the first and is finally
drained out. Water separately enters the 6th
chamber and also is washed out.
Operating procedure
 Place the batch to run in proper positon (feed side) and lock it in base.
 Place an empty roll on delivery side and lock it in proper position.
 Check all chemical storage tank if filled up to optimum level.
 Open water and steam main line.
 Switch on main switch. Red light in panel board will glow.
 Wait till display in PLC is on.

33 | P a g e
 Press key in panel board and rotate in clockwise direction. Now white white
light in panel board will glow.
During running the machine
 Place fabric roll in front of the fixed place of the machine, so that the roller os
llaced parallel to the machine roller. Place anlther empty roller at the delivery
side of the machine.
 Stitching of the fabric properly so that the stitching is parallel to the roller of the
machine.
 Switch on the machime.
 Close the programme of the process and wait till the chambers are filled with at
paarticular temperature.
 Check the chemical tanks and filled with proper chambers.
 Check th pressure of the squeeze rollers of different chambers.
 Run the programme.
 After completion of the programme, clean the machine.
 Heating system should be put off in PLC.
 Then switch of the main switch.
 Close steam valve, air valve and water main valve.

34 | P a g e
DYEING SECTION
JUMBO JIGGER MACHINE
MACHINE DETAILS:
 MAKE : SWISH FLEX PVT. LTD.
 LOADING CAPACITY : 150 kg
 LIQUOUR IN BATH : 700L
 MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE : 140ºC
 MAXIMUM PRESSURE : 5 kg/cm2
 DIAMETER OF JET NOZZLE : 2mm(SUITING), 1.5 MM(SHIRTING)
Modern machines such as automatic and jumbo jiggers have full automation in drive ,
tension regulation and control , fabric speed and metering, smooth and jerk less stop
and start , counters for number of turns , gradual and noiseless reversal, automatic
temperature regulation and control etc.
PACIFIC JIGGER
MACHINE

35 | P a g e
MACHINE DETAILS
 MAKE : PACIFIC HARISH INDUSTRIES
 LOADING CAPACITY : 500 kg
 LIQUOUR IN BATH : 1200L
 MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE : 98ºC
OPERATING PROCEDURE
BEFORE STARTING MACHINE
 First, check the machine should be clean.
 Open the air valve and check the air pressure.
 Open the steam and air valve also.
 Then, check the free friction movement of the rolls – no jerk should be noticed.
DURING RUNNING MACHINE
 Load goods according to machine capacity.
 Then check hydraulic as well as steam pressure as indicated in the computer
panel.
 Maintain temperature and pH.
 Steam should be checked,( direct as well as indirect steam – for dyeing &
scouring respectively).
 Properly maintain turns.
BEFORE SHUT DOWN
 Air valve should be closed.
 Steam and water should also be closed.
 Clean machine after unloading

36 | P a g e
DRYING AND FINISHING
HARISH STENTER MACHINE
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the
stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and
also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade
variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise
and to recover the uniform width.
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the
padders where the finishes are applied and some times shade variation is
corrected.The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the
mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins
are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the
selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are greater than the clips.these clips and pins
are joined to endless chain.there are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each
chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.the
circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all
the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch the warp yarn.
After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch.The speed of
the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.
Components of Stenter Machine:
 Paders
 Weft straightner (Mahlo)
 Burners 10
 Heat recovery
 Attraction rollers
 Exhaust fans 2
 Winder 2

37 | P a g e
 Clips
 Pins
 Cooling drums 2
HARISH STENTER MACHINE
MACHINE DETAILS :
 MAKE : HARISH
 NO OF HEADING CHAMBERS : 6
 NO OF RADIATOR : 4 IN EACH CHAMBERS
 MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE : 180 °C
 STANDARD TEMPERATURE : 160 – 170 ° C
 BLOWER FAN SPEED : 100 rpm
 MANGLE : 2 DIP & 2 NIP
 MAXIMUM NIP PRESSURE : 6 kg/cm2
 WORKABLE NIP PRESSURE : 4 kg/cm2
 WORKABLE WIDTH : 180 cm
 TROUGH CAPACITY : 150 L
 STANDARD OVERFEED : 4 %

38 | P a g e
MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST
 Air leakages from pneumatic system.
 Working of pneumatic cylinders.
 Loading of mangle bowls.
 Width indicator – indicated and actual width
 Working and condition of weft & bow straighteners.
 Hot air leakages from chamber door slabs
 Temperature indicator controllers.
 Cloth & selvage tension.
 Speed indicator.
 Hardness and evenness of mangle bowls.

39 | P a g e
3 BOWL CALENDERING MACHINE
The calender is a series of hard pressure rollers used to form or smooth a sheet of
material. Calendering is an operation carried out on a fabric to improve its aesthetics.
Objectives/Aims of Calendering:
1. To upgrade the fabric hand and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric.
2. To improve the opacity of the fabric
3. To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness.
4. To impart different degree of luster to the fabric.
5. To reduce yarn slippage.
The mechanical finish is done for softness and shining of the fabric or stiffness
according to the nature of the chemical, this process is done after the chemical
finishing as per buyer requirement. Speed of the machine is 10- 100 m/min.
3 BOWL CALENDERING MACHINE

40 | P a g e
MACHINE DETAILS
 MAKE : RAMISCH GUARNERI
 STANDARD SPEED : 50m/min
 MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE : 150 °C
 STANDARD TEMPERATURE : 100 ° C
 MAXIMUM CALENDERING PRESSURE : 350 N/mm
 WORKABLE CALENDERING PRESSURE : 200 N/mm
A Short description of Calendering Machine is Given Below:
Seam detector:Function of seam detector is to bypass the seam.
Metal detector: Metal detector to detect metal partials.
Anti static rod: Anti static rod is used to remove static charges.
Small winder: When we have to calendar short width fabric and we can also run
short width fabric with long width fabric.
Oscillating roll: To avoid selvedge overlapping on batcher.
Cotton roll:For soft finish the fabric is passed through cotton bowl. This roller
is made up of cotton.
Steel roll: To give smoothness and luster. The temperature is provided to steel roller
about 32-200 c with help of electric heater as we increase the temperature shining
will increases only used for cotton CVC and percale and PC.

41 | P a g e
Reclon roll:When fabric passes through Reclon roll and steel roll giving smooth and
luster effect is generated. When it runs with steel roll and reclon roll and cotton roll
dull effect is generated. When it runs b/w steel and reclon gloss effect is generated.
Cooling drum: Cool down the fabric water circulates inside the cooling drum.

42 | P a g e
SANFORIZING MACHINE (FLEXA COMPACTA)
Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage process, which is applied on
woven fabric to achieve shrinkage before making the garments. After sanforizing the
residual shrinkage of woven fabric may be zero. In sanforizing process shrinkage is
achieved by passing the cotton fabric onto a movable elastic felt blanket is released
it assumes a shortened conditional. Thus the cotton fabric is forced to conform this
compression.
FLEXA COMPACTA
Residual Shrinkage is the latent shrinkage of a fiber, Filament, yarn or fabric.
The shrinkage amount of fabric is dependent on:
1. The nature of fibers
2. The character of threads
3. The way of interlacing of thread in the fabric.
4. Crimp in yarn.
5. Cycle of washing no. of washing.
PROCESS:
Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent the
normal dimensional alternation of warp and weft. It is also called anti-shrinkage
finishing process. It is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most

43 | P a g e
textiles made from natural or chemical fibres, patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett
(1874–1968) in 1930. It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven
cloth in both length and width, before cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage
which would otherwise occur after washing.
MACHINE DETAILS:
 MAKE : SPERETTO RIMAR
 STANDARD SPEED : 30m/min
 STANDARD WOODEN FELT TEMPERATURE : 130-140 °C
 STANDARD RUBBER BLANKET TEMPERATURE : 125-130 ° C
 AIR PRESSURE : 4 BAR (MAX. 6 BAR)
Operating procedure
 Clean the machine and ots surroundings.
 Open steam, water and air line.
 Heat the machine, i.e., rubber blanket upto 125oC and woolen felt upto
130oC.
 Observe the condition of rubber blanket and water flow clean pipe and
cylinder, if required, if dust and scale deposition is more.
 Check steam and air pressure.
 Check rubber hardness, if required grind the rubber blanket.
During running of the machine
 Set batching alignment properly both front and back side.
 Set the shrinkage on display board as per the requirement and measure it
record the actual shrinkage percentage and display shrinkage percentage.
 Check width of the fabric on both sids front and back.

44 | P a g e
 After stopping the machine, close steam valves tocool down the machine upto
room temperature.
 Close air and water valve.
 Switch off computer panel.
Procedures for controlled compressive shrinkage of fabric
 Check for cleanliness of the machine and its surroundings.
 Check process card for each batch accordingly.
 Check program to decide the running sequence accordingly.
 Checm threading of machine against threading diagram. If found incorrect,
report to team leader and rethread the machine.
 Switch on the machine.
 Open the cool water supply to spray over the rubber blanket.
 Open steam valve of main drum and woolen felt drum.
 Set required shrinkage on panel board.
 Stitch the batch to the leader cloth accordingly.
 Align the batch/ wagon at the in-feed to avoid creases.
 Clean the batch to be used at the out feed using a dry cloth.
 Once all parameters are set, start the machine as follows
 Press START.
 Increase speed by pressing FAST till the required speed is achieved.
 Align the batch at out feed to avoid creases.
 Ensure that the machine is run at the recommended speed and fabric is
crease free throughout.
 Ensure that all the process specification are strictly complied with.
 Take sample from scray for quality control testing. cm sample for each order.
 Ensure that all quality checking is carried out according to procedure number.
 Mark and sign process card according to procedure number and place with
the out feed batch.

45 | P a g e
 At the end of the programme, thread machine with leader cloth and clean the
machine according to the procedures.
Safety instructions
Do's
 Always open water spray on rubber blanket before starting the machine.
 Start operation when temperature is attained.
 Check actual shrinkage of processed fabric.
 Always use pull wire whenever critical situation arises.
Don'ts
 Do not touch the heated cylinder and rubber blanket.
 Do not increase temperature of rubber blanket more than oC and woolen felt
temperature more than oC.
 Do not idle machine unnecessarily, otherwise crack on rubber blanket may
develop.
 Do not leave rubber blanket in stretched condition after end of operation.
Maintenance check list
1. Working of damping nozzle
2. Rotary joint checking
3. Hardness of rubber blanket
4. Steam leakage checking
5. Working of blanket guider
6. Checking of drive gear box
7. Felt cylinder drive coupling
8. Plaiter driver
9. Felt centering device
10.Guider roll bearing
11.Steam trap checking
12.Overload relay
13.Condensate beader

46 | P a g e
INSPECTION AND QUALITY CONTROL
Inspection and quality control is the last procedure to check for any faults before the
fabrics are shipped out. Inspection is the process of checking the lengths of fabrics
visually or with the help of an inspection table. Quality control can be done by the
help of various physical as well as chemical tests that can help in determining
whether the quality of the fabrics have met the required standards.
Feed: Woven linen fabrics
Delivery: Faultless woven linen fabrics
Machines used:
1. Inspection cum rolling machines – 5 (True Shape Model: Classic)
Significance of inspection and quality control:
 Inspection of the fabrics helps in preventing overlooking of the errors that may
have been left out.
 Quality control can be a great help in meeting the required standards that is
needed.
Working of the machines used:
 All fabrics are inspected on an inspection machine or frame equipped with
variable speed motor as well as meter for measuring roll lengths. Frame is
tilted so that fabric passes at an angle between 45o
to 60o
off horizontal.
During inspection, the inspector must be able to stand at an appropriate
distance from inspection frame to ensure best possible visibility of fabric
shading and defects.
 The frame is lighted with a minimum of two TL-84 tubes parallel to each other
and perpendicular to the direction of fabric movement. The lights should be 4
feet away from the section of fabric being inspected. The lights must also be
directly above the viewing area, at an angle of 60o
.
 All machines have digital meter to calculate the total length of the fabric.

47 | P a g e
The inspection system followed: American 4-point inspection system
There are three labs pertaining to the quality control job:
a. Physical lab
b. Chemical lab
c. Testing lab
AMERICAN 4 POINT SYSTEM
The 4-point system, also called American Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point
grading system for determination of fabric quality, is widely used by producers of
apparel fabrics and by the Department of Defense in the United States and is
endorsed by the AAMA as well as ASQC (American Society for Quality Control).
This system is applicable mainly for knitted fabrics and also used for
woven fabrics.
Penalty points are assigned for each defect according to the length of
defects in the fabric inspected.
Size of defect (length in inches) No. of penalty points
3” or less 1
Over 3” but less than 6” 2
Over 6” but less than 9” 3
Over 9” 4

48 | P a g e
Holes and openings (largest dimensions) No. of penalty points
1” or less 2
Over 1” 4
Total defect points/100 yd2
are calculated and normally those fabric rolls containing
more than 40 points/100 yd2
are considered seconds.

49 | P a g e
SOME BASIC QUALITY
PIECE DYED QUALITY
Quality Product Reed PPI Warp Weft Warp Weft GSM Blend Weave
No. Name Count Count Wt. Wt.
F-1807 F 1807 Flora 48/2 56 60 Lea 60 Lea 9.17 9.9 116 100% Plain
Linen
F-2078 F 2078 Flora 48/2 48 50 Lea 50 Lea 11 10.18 129 100% Plain
Linen
FC-216 FC 216 Genova 64/2 50 40Cotton 40 Lea 6.55 13.26 121 L/C= Plain
67/33
F-302 F 302 Reno 40/2 44 25 Lea 25 Lea 18.4 18.67 226 100% Plain
Linen
FC-1711 FC 1711 Sara 52/2 42 2/30Cotton 25 Lea 14.2 17.82 196 L/C= Plain
55/45
LRO- LRO 1083 Flamingo 60/2 66 80 Lea 80 Lea 9.3 9.40 114 100% Plain
1083 Linen
LARO- LARO 1399 68/2 59 100 Lea
100
Lea
7.89 6.35 89 100% Plain
1399 Linen
ADOLFO- ADOL 12000 Adolfo 68/2 70 120 Lea
120
Lea
6.95 6.49 88 100% Plain
12000 FO Linen
RF-1008 RF 1008 52/2 62 60 Lea 70 Lea 9.91 9.24 118 100% Plain
Linen

50 | P a g e
YARN DYED QUALITY
Quality Product Reed PPI Warp Weft Warp Weft GSM Blend Weave
No. Name Count Count Wt. Wt.
F-1451 F 1451 Amazon 44/2 44 40 Lea 40 Lea 12.61 11.7 148 100% Plain
Linen
F-5003 F 5003 Anna 50/2 56 1/60 Lea 1/60 Lea 9.55 9.91 118 100% Plain
Linen
F-7005 F 7005 Anna 58/2 60 1/66 Lea 1/66 Lea 10.08 9.64 120 100% Plain
Linen
F-72884 F 72884 Anna 52/2 56 1/66 Lea 1/66 Lea 9.04 9 110 100% Plain
Linen
F-10462 F 10462 Antares 52/2 56 1/50 Lea 1/60 Lea 11.9 9.9 133 100% Plain
Linen
F-91101 F 91101 Malaga 40/2 42 1/25 Lea 1/25 Lea 18.35 17.82 220 100% Plain
Linen
F-10495 F 10495 Malaga 40/2 42 1/25 Lea 1/25 Lea 18.30 17.80 221 100% Plain
Linen
F-6011 F 6011 Maxim 54/2 52 1/40 Lea 1/40 Lea 15.48 13.79 179 100% Plain
Linen
Linen
Linen
F-110393 F 110393 Ural 40/2 38 33 Lea 14 Lea 13.9 29.83 261 100% Plain
Linen

51 | P a g e
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION SHEET (SAMPLE)
Jayashree Textile Page 1 of 2
Issue Date: 26.05.2014 Sales Date: JS01 Entry Date: 13.05.2014
Job Card No.: DC01500001 Item No.: 8 Delivery Date:
QDC No.: APNO/ 21871/8
Old Ref. No.: DCO-32 Brand Name: Weavers
Customer Name: DCO Session:
Customer Ref. No.: Inquiry No.:
Theme Code:
Remarks:
Reed: 60/2 Fin EPI: 66.00 Total ends: 3916
Reed space: 64.0 inch Fin PPI: 64.00 Body ends: 3768
Onloom EPI: 60.00 Grey PPI: 63.00 Selvedge ends: 148
Onloom PPI: 62.00 Fin GSM: 113.00 Mono ends: 0
Weave: PLAIN Fin Glm: 166.11 Cover factor: 0.00
Blend: 100 % LINEN Fin width: 147.00 cm
Order length (Fin): 80.000 Warping length: 90.000
Product type: Shirting yarn dyed
Sr. Count Shade No. Lot No. Remarks E/R Ends % Wt Kg/100 m
Mono yarns:
80 LEA F-0004 10013 SNOW 4 3768 100.00 8.58
Total: 4 3768 100.00 8.58
Sr. Count Shade no. Lot No. Remarks P/R % Wt Kg/100m
Weft yarns:
A 80 LEA F-3906 59329 REACTIVE 1 100.00 8.36
Total:
Warping Calculation:
Selvedge = 74x1= 74
Body ends= 4x942=3768 Repeats: 942 Ex. Ends: 0
Extra ends= 0x1= 0
Selvedge= 74x1= 74
Total= 3916
Monogram: LINEN ½” CLUB ½” EXCLUSIVE 6” ADITYA ½” BIRLA ½” GROUP 6”

52 | P a g e
Job card No.: DC01500001/8 Page: 2 of 2
Warp Pattern: Weft Pattern: Different Picks
A.4-F-0004 A.1-F-3906 X1
Total: 4 Total: 1 AVG. PPI – 0.00
Selvedge Pattern:
A.18-C-GREY
B.4-C-0002
C.2-BLUE
B.4-C-0002 x1
C.1-BLUE
B.1-C-0002 x18
B.4-C-0002
2-BLUE
B.4-C-002 x1
Total: 74
Body Drawing (D/R=2 E/R=4) Selvedge + Mono Drawing (D/R=9 E/R=56)
Name: DB-1883 Name: DS-1333
Under Body Drawing
1: 1 2
2: 3 4 x1
Under Selvedge + Mono Drawing
1: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
2: 8 9 10 11 12 13
3: 14 15 16 17 18 19
4: 20 21 22 23 24 25
5: 26 27 28 29 30 31
6: 32 33 34 35 36 37
7: 38 39 40 41 42 43
8: 44 45 46 47 48 49
9: 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 x1
Body LIFTING (P/R=4) Name:PL4
1: 1- 3- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2: -2-4- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
3: 1-3- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
4: -2-4- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - x1
Selvedge LIFTING (P/R=4) Name: LJ-2
1: - - - - 5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2: - - - - - 6 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
3: - - - - 5 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
4: - - - - - 6 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - x1
Authorised signature

53 | P a g e
Quality Checking at Different Stages
Department Division Checking Method Responsibility
Yarn Dyeing Quality Checking
Yarn dyeing Yarn dyeing store Grey material Visual Checking Yarn dyeing
Checking of whiteness operator
index
Yarn dyeing Shade Checking Under, standard Yarn dyeing
(Primary) light source Supervisor
Yarn dyeing Shade Checking Under, standard Designing
(Secondary) light source Officer
Yarn dyeing Washing Fastness ISO 766
Fabric
dyehouse
Supervisor
Yarn dyeing Rubbing Fastness Not Done Not Done
(Dry/Wet)
Yarn dyeing Dyed yarn strength Tenso Rapid Central SQC
Check operator
Yarn dyeing Levelness (3 part Visual Checking Yarn dyeing
checking) Supervisor
Delivery end final Dagi, yarn damage Visual Checking Yarn dyeing
Checking Supervisor
Fabric Processing Quality Checking
Fabric PTR (Pre- Whiteness Index CIE Scale Lab
Processing Treatment Range) supervisor
Dyeing Shade and CS Visually under Lab
standard light Supervisor/ QA
Supervisor
Finishing Checking of physical Standard as per Lab
parameters, Hand
feel
customer Supervisor/ QA
protocol Supervisor
Finishing Shade Grouping Visually under Operator
standard light
source
(Primary: D-65;
Secondary:
CWF)

54 | P a g e
Warehouse Quality Checking
Warehouse Mending Neps, Dhaga, Knots
Manual
Checking
Checker/
Supervisor
Grading (Buyerwise) Weaving, processing Visually (under Checker/
fault checking standard light) Supervisor
Rolling and Padding Than, roll size and Weighing Checker
(Buyerwise) weight checking, roll
machine,
visually
to roll shade
checking
Decorating table and Order checking and Manually Packer or data
packing buyerwise packing operator or
Supervisor
PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC FROM TESTING LAB TO FABRIC INSPECTION
MACHINE
Fabric process House Not Ok
Flexa Compacta/ Shrinkage, tear,
Fabric samples are Zero-Zero tensile, seam
Recorded in the lab slippage, washing,
Register book with sl.no., Lab Testing light, rubbing
Quality, customer, etc. fastness, etc are
Folding and delivery checked.
To warehouse Ok

55 | P a g e
PROCESS DETAILS
- Finished fabric is collected from zero-zero machine and sent to fabric
testing lab with lot movement card, containing quality, shade, customer,
NS No., Job card no., etc.
- Record fabric samples in the lab register book with date, time , sl. No.,
quality, shade no., customer, NS. No.
- Condition fabric for four hours at 21 + 2 o
C temperature and 63% + 2 R.H.
- Fabric tests are performed according to requirements.
- If test results are ‘OK’, fabric is sent to folding section with quality officer
authorized signed fabric testing card and if any of the test results are ‘NOT
OK’, the fabrics are sent back for reproducing to the finishing department
of the Fabric Process House.
- No lab tests are done for less than 50 meters fabric.
- For reprocessed fabric fastness (light, washing, rubbing) tests are not
done.
INSPECTION CONDITIONS
Inspection machines are used:
1. Five inspection cum rolling machines:
MAKE: True Shape
MODEL: Master
- All fabrics are inspected on a inspection machine or frame equipped with a
variable speed motor as well as meter for measuring roll lengths. Frame is
tilted so that fabric passes at an angle between 45o
and 60o
off horizontal.
During inspection, the inspector must be able to stand at an appropriate
distance from inspection frame to ensure best possible visibility of fabric
shading and defects.

56 | P a g e
- The frame is lighted with a minimum of two TLF-84 tubes parallel to each
other and perpendicular to the direction of fabric movement. The lights
should be four feet away from the section of fabric being inspected. The
lights must also be directly above the viewing area, at an angle of 60o
.
- All machines have digital meter to calculate the total length of the fabric.
NOTES:
- Fabric will be inspected only on the side designated as the face by the mill.
- Fabric will be inspected for spinning or weaving or processing defects and
stains, holes, etc., and are graded according to the quality to grade A and
B.
- No more than four points can be assigned to any 1m of fabric. All defects
must be flagged at the selvedge such that the flag can be detected from
either the back or face of the fabric during spreading and points are
documented.
- The maximum points allowed per 100 linear meters: 30
- The maximum no. of 4 points allowed per 100 linear meters: 4
- No. of holes allowed per 100 linear meters: 3
- Average points per lot per 100 linear meters: 25
- Any holes will be penalized four points.
- One type of defect resulting in single point allowed: 15 per 100 linear
meters
- A repeating defect of 2 meters and above should not be allowed;
otherwise the roll should be rejected.
- Minimum roll length: 20 meters
- Four point inspection system is applicable for both PD and YD quality, only
for RMG.
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA
FABRIC WIDTH:
- Width of each roll is measured at least three times; at the beginning,
middle and end of the roll. In case, there is variation in width at any of
these points, then width is observed after every 10 meters.

57 | P a g e
GSM:
- Measured according to ASTM D 3776 standard method in the factory
laboratory.
- Three samples from left, middle and right side of each fabric are taken to
measure the average GSM.
- Tolerance of +5% is allowed for all testing fabrics.
-
CONDITIONS FOR REJECTION OF SHIPMENT:
- Off-shade fabric.
- Fabric of short width or excessive width variation.
- Fabric with crease marks.
- Hand feel not to standard.
- Uneven dyeing or streaky appearance that is non-characteristic to the
fabric.
SHADE EVALUATION
SHADE MATCHING AND GROUPING
- All shade matching and sorting are done under standard light of D^%,
CWF, UV lights. The approved reference sample is the standard for shade
continuity checking.
- In case of piece dyed materials for shade checking retail and brands, the
first batch is matched with the standard swatch cutting or approved
labdips, the subsequent batches are matched with the first approved batch
to maintain close consistency. Also the shade bands of every batch are
kept in processing laboratory for future references.
- Maximum of five shade lots are allowed per colour subject to a minimum of
25% of the total lot quantity in each shade lot or minimum size of 500
meters. In larger deliveries (e.g., 10000 meters in one colour in bottle
green) higher number of groups may be possible.
- Shade continuity cards are prepared and sent to the selected customers
as per requirement.

58 | P a g e
SHADE CONTINUITY
Shade continuity within each roll is evaluated by assessing the shade variation
between:
- Side to center variation (CSV)
- Roll to roll
SOME FAULTS
1. Chira
2. Chaapa
3. Broken pick
4. Double pick
5. Design cut
6. Shade variation
7. Warp lines
8. Wrong warp pattern
9. Wrong drawing
10.Undyed weft
11.Double end
12.Missing end
13.Wrong denting
14.Tail end
15.Stitch/float
16.Undyed warp
17.Temple mark
18.Reed mark
19.Starting/ patti mark
20.Oil stain
21.Parts impression
22.Hole
23.Late off
24.Selvedge cut
25.Loose weft
26.Loose warp
27.Weft cut
28.Tight end
29.Contamination
30.Knots
31.Slubs
32.Patta
33.Unbleach warp yarn
34.High twist/low twist
35.Four ply/ three ply
36.Dirty/ rusty/ oily yarn
37.Guccha
38.Jhiri
39.Clipping
40.Weft wise patta
41.Unbleach weft yarn

59 | P a g e
FABRIC TESTING PROTOCOL
TEST
PROPERTY
TEST
METHOD
ACCEPTABLE STANDARD
COLOUR FASTNESS PROPERTY
Colour fastness to
Washing
AATCC 61A Colour Change 4.0
Colour Staining 3.5
Colour fastness to
Perspiration
AATCC 16 Colour Change 4.0
Colour Staining 3.5
Colour fastness to
Light-20 AFU
AATCC 16E Colour
Change
Light
shade
Medium
Shade
Dark
Shade
3 3.5 3.5
Colour fastness to
Rubbing or
crocking
AATCC 8 Plain
Fabric
Dark and Raised
Fabric
Dry 4 4
Wet 3 2.5
Colour fastness to
pH
AATCC 81 For white 6-7.5
For non-white 6-8
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Residual
Shrinkage %
AATCC 135 (F/F) +1/-4.0% maximum (both warp and weft)
AATCC 135 (F/C) +1/-5.0% maximum (both warp and weft)
AATCC 135 (F/V,
F/S, F/L)
+7.5% maximum
Tensile Strength
(in kg)
ASTM D 5034 Weight
Range
Weight Range
Below 110
GSM
Above 110 GSM
Warp 10.00 15.00
Weft 9.00 13.00
Pilling Resistance
(Martindale)
ASTM D 4970 Class 3.5 @ 1000 rubs

60 | P a g e
TEST
PROPERTY
TEST
METHOD
ACCEPTABLE STANDARD
Tear Strength
(in kg.)
ASTM D 1424 Weight Range Weight Range
Below 110
GSM
Above 110
GSM
Warp 1.00 1.20
Weft 1.00 1.20
Abrasion
Resistance
(Martindale)
ASTM D 4966
According to quality and customer
requirement
Seam Slippage
Test (@ 6.4 mm
opening) Kg
ASTM D 434 For all qualities
Warp 8.0
Weft 8.0
Bowing ASTM D 3882 Visible Yarn Invisible yarn
2.5% 3.0%
Width + 1%
GSM + 5%
Mending: The fabric is mended manually by removing extra yarns or removable
contamination on fabrics.
Physical lab: the physical lab is the lab where the physical test of the fibres and the
fabrics are done.
#-Equipments in the physical lab:
WRAP REEL
Make: Mag engineers
Serial number: 173125

61 | P a g e
#-FABRIC BREAKING STRENGTH TESTER
Make: Good brand (U.K.)
Model: 49/60
Technical specification: 0 – 900 kgs (resolution 5kgs)
Traverse speed: 500 mm/min
I. Switch on the machine.
II. Adjust grip length.
III. Place the test specimen, centrally along the axis of jaws.
IV. Grip the fabric between the jaws by grip handle.
V. Keep both the elongation measuring scales at starting position.
VI. Set the pointer of the reading dial in ‘0’ position.
VII. Engage clutch handle to lead screw.
VIII. Note elongation readings from both the elongation measuring scales just at
the time of fabric break.
IX. Just after fabric breaking, disengage clutch handle from lead screw and note
down breaking load reading from reading dial.
#-Test: Colour Fastness to washing (Test method: AATCC 61A)
Equipment: Infrared Dryer
Make: Logic art
Procedure:
1. Take fabric sample with dimensions using template.
2. Place it between two white cotton fabrics of same size or multi-fibre strip and
sew it along the sides.
3. Soap it with 5 gpl ECE reference detergents at 60o
C for 30 minutes with
material-liquor ratio 1:50.
4. Take out sample from the adjacent fabric.
5. Evaluate adjacent fabric for staining and colour change using grey scales.

62 | P a g e
#-Test: Colourfastness to crocking or rubbing (Test Method: AATCC 8)
Equipment: Paramount Manual Crockmeter
Procedure:
Dry rubbing:
1. Cut sample with dimensions 30cmx5cm.
2. Place dry finished fabric sample on test finger.
3. Hold fabric sample firmly on the jaws and there should be no wrinkle on the
base of the fabric.
4. Move test finger to the farthest point on the specimen to be tested gently to
the start the test.
5. Fix white dry cotton piece on moving jaw with metal ring.
6. Rotate the handle of crockmeter manually in clockwise direction at
approximately 1 revolution per second to give 10 complete cycles (1 complete
cycle= 1 to and fro motion).
7. Evaluate the cotton piece for the degree of staining with the help of grey
scale.
Wet rubbing:
1. Cut sample with dimensions 30cmx5cm.
2. Place dry finished fabric sample on test finger.
3. Hold fabric sample firmly on the jaws and there should be no wrinkle on the
base of the fabric.
4. Dip the cotton piece in distilled water at room temperature for 10 minutes and
remove excess amount of water by using the sample between glass plates to
give uniform wetting.
5. Fix the white wet cotton piece on moving jaw with metal ring.
6. Rotate the handle of crockmeter manually in clockwise direction at
approximately 1 revolution per second to give 10 complete cycles (1 complete
cycle= 1 to and fro motion).
7. Evaluate the cotton piece for the degree of staining with the help of grey
scale.

63 | P a g e
#-Test: Residual Shrinkage % (Test method: AATCC 135)
Equipment: PARAMOUNT Accushrink scale; IFB washing machine; Tumble drier;
Flat bed press)
Procedure:
The dimensional changes of the fabric specimen subjected to typical home
laundering and drying practices are measured using pairs of benchmarks applied to
the fabric before laundering.
1. After finishing samples comes to lab for pre-conditioning under standard
conditions of temperature and relative humidity in the lab for 2-3 hours.
2. Then marking is done according to standard Accushrink scale having 350mm
marking along warp and weft with 3 markings for each direction. (ISO certified
scale and template for shrinkage % measurement from M/s Paramount,
India).
3. Interlock stitch is given in all sides of the sample meant for testing, so that no
thread is coming out during washing.
4. Soap it with 5gpl ECE reference detergents or surf excel at 60oC for 30
minutes, in IFB washing machine followed by thorough rinse with cold water
and tumble dry. Then cut the interlock stitch.
5. Press sample on flat bed press (Hoffman) for complete drying and pressing
and take it out and ensure that fabric should be free from any wrinkle.
6. Condition the sample and measure the length marked earlier with
PARAMOUNT ACCUSHRINK scale with shrinkage reading already given in it.
7. Measure shrinkage % reading directly from scale.
#-Test: Tear Strength (in lbs) (Test Method: ASTM D 1424)
Equipment: Elmendorf tearing strength tester
Make: PARAMOUNT
Sampling:

64 | P a g e
Take a swatch extending the width of fabric and approximately 1m along the
machine direction from each roll of fabric. Take a sample that will exclude from outer
warp of the roll of fabric or inner warp around core of the
Procedure:
1. Raise the pendulum till it rests against the release level.
2. Open both jaws and insert the test specimen between the edges of jaws,
tighten the jaws in this position.
3. Raise the cutting level to make the slit in the test specimen raising it till the
knife goes up to the maximum extension possible. Lower the knife to its initial
position, the slit should be 20+0.15 mm.
4. Move the pointer till it rests against the pointer stopper screw. Lift the
pendulum release level to release the pendulum. Hold the lever until the tear
is completed and catch the pendulum on the return swing by hand without
disturbing the position of the pointer. Read scale to nearest whole division.
5. If specimen slips in the grips or if the tear deviates by more than 6mm away
from the projection of the original, reject the reading and repeat.
6. Repeat test till at least 5 specimens of both warp and weft direction are
tested. Reject any reading differing by more than 9% of the mean. Find
average of the remaining reading in warp and weft direction.
Calculation:
Tearing strength= K x mean value of scale reading
K x mean value of scale reading
Mean tearing strength=
n
N= Number of test specimen tested together
K= 16 without any augmenting weight

65 | P a g e
K= 32 with augmenting weight for 3200 grams
K= 64 with both augmenting weight
#-Test: Seam slippage (Test method: Seam opening at 8kgf load)
Equipment: Seam slippage Tester by James H. Heal & Co.
Procedure:
1. Cut the fabric samples along warp as well as weft direction with dimensions
9.5cm x 1.8cm using template.
2. Cut each sample into two equal parts and sew them at centre.
3. Grip the sample from both sides on the jaws.
4. Apply 8kgf load to open the seam by rotating the handle of the machine
(breaking strength tester by James H. Heal & Co.).
5. Measure slippage with scale.
6. Maximum tolerance limit is 6.0 mm.
#-Test: Seam Strength (in kg) (Test method: ASTM D434:1995)
Equipment: Universal Testing Machine (Tinius Olsen, Model: H10KS) by SDL-
ATLAS
Procedure:
350mm x 100mm using template.
2. Fold the sample at 100mm from one end and stitch at 12mm from the fold.
There will be 14 stitches per inch. Then cut the fold.
3. Switch on the machine and the computer.
4. Open Q. Mat test zone. Open the test method (ASTM D434:1995) and put
test number.
5. Load range: 1000N
6. Extension range: 50mm
7. Test method: Fixed
8. Seam opening: 6.4mm (Fixed)

66 | P a g e
9. 0.252 is slippage resistance (Fixed)
10.First load the seamed portion at the jaw. Grip it by the foot paddle. Firm the
grip by double green button.
11.Start test at the computer.
12.Then load the unseamed portion and repeat the above procedure.
13.Minimum tolerance limit is 8.0kg (Seam strength).
#-Test: Checking of pick-up%
To avoid C/S variation in piece dyed fabric, there should not be any variation in
pressure through the nip roll of singeing, CBR, Kuster Padding mangle and Stenter.
It can be checked by checking the pick-up% in left-middle-right position of all the
machines every day. The method of checking pick-up% is as follows:
1. During running of any quality in the machine, before end of the batch, stop the
machine and the window cutting sample in three places, i.e., left, middle and
right separately and cover with air tight packet and weigh them. Let the weight
be (w+c).
2. Uncover the sample and put it for bone drying.
3. Condition the sample after drying and weigh again. Let the weight be‘d’.
4. Weigh the packet. Let the weight be ‘c’.
5. So weight of the wet material is ‘w’.
6. Pick-up% will be = (w-d)/dx100%.
Requirement:
Pick-up% in left, right and middle should be same or can vary by + 2%. If the sample
does not comply with this condition, action should be taken with the help of
maintenance department to check whether there is any variation in pressure or
something else.
#-Operating procedure of Datacolour Spectrophotometer (CCM)
How to start the software:
1. Switch on the computer and type the desired password.

67 | P a g e
2. Switch on the CCM. Make sure to check the “Ready” button. Green light will
glow.
3. On the desktop, there are two icons. They are “DataColor Tools” and
“DataColor Match”. For “Whiteness index and dE Measurement”, open
“DataColor Tools”. For “Recipe Prediction”, open “DataColor Match”.
The CCM is mainly used for three purposes:
 Measurement of Whiteness index.
 Measurement of colour difference (dE).
 Recipe prediction
Measurement of whiteness Index:
1. Go to “DataColor Tools”. Insert user name and password.
2. Calibrate with calibration tiles. Calibration sequences should Black panel
(Face Up/ Forward), White Calibration standard tile and green calibration
standard tile respectively.
3. Setting should be Specular Exclude, UV Calibrated with Large Aperture
(LAV).
4. Then, set the required light source as primary or secondary by the button
(Lllum/Obs) at the top menu bar.
5. Put any sample in Std. case and press Std: Inst.
6. Put the sample in batchcase and press Bat:Inst.
7. Then go to “Batch White” button in the lower button bar. Press the flower at
the top left corner and print the report.
Measurement of colour difference (dE):
2. If it is already calibrated then change the settings to “UV 100%” and “Specular
Include”.
3. If not, then calibrate the CCM with the said setting and appropriate aperture.
Then, set the required light source as primary or secondary by the button
Lllm/Obs at the top menu bar.
4. Put any standard in Standard. case and press Std: Inst.

68 | P a g e
5. Put the batch in batchcase and press Bat:Inst.
6. Go to CMC P/F or CIE P/F as per requirement of dE.
7. Go to the flower at the top left corner and print the dE report if required.
Recipe prediction:
2. If it is already calibrated then change the settings to “UV 100%” and “Specular
Include”.
3. If not, then calibrate the CCM with the said setting and appropriate aperture.
4. Press “recipe” button.
5. Then, go to the button marked with a flower or press F5. Measure the
standard directly.
6. Select the dyestuffs.
7. Check the appropriate light source.
8. Press the “Calculate” button.
9. The recipe will be in gm/kg. Select appropriate recipe with low metamerism.
10.Note the recipe in the register and go back to main page to “DataColot
Match”.
Precaution to take while using CCM:
1. For every time, don’t forget to switch on CCM and computer simultaneously.
2. For every measurement, always check if the CCM is calibrated or not.
3. Always keep proper setting for measurement of white and dyed samples, i.e.,
Specular Include/ Exclude and UV %, etc.
4. Set the aperture as per the size of the sample to be measured.
5. CCM is to be calibrated for each aperture.
Do not go in any portion of the software which is unknown
#-Test: Colourfastness to perspiration (Test Method: AATCC 15)
Equipment: Perspirometer (Model: M231); Make: SD ATLAS Ltd.
Procedure:

69 | P a g e
A specimen of coloured textile in contact with other fibre materials (for colour
transfer) is wet out in simulated acid perspiration solution, subjected to a fixed
mechanical pressure and allowed to dry slowly at a slightly elevated temperature.
After conditioning, the specimen is evaluated for colour change and the other fibre
materials are evaluated for colour transfer.
Preparation of test solutions: Solutions should be made up immediately prior to use
as the chemicals can degrade over time.
Alkaline solution (makes 1 litr.)
 0.5g of 1-histidine monohydrocloride monohydrate (C9H9O2N3.HCl.H2O)
 5g of sodium chloride (NaCl)
Either
 5g of disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dodecahydrate (Na2HPO4.12H2O)
Or
 2.5g of disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate (Na2HPO4.2H2O)
 The solution is brought to pH 8.0 with 0.1 mol sodium hydroxide solution.
Acid solution (makes 1 litr.)
 0.5g of 1-histidine monohydrocloride monohydrate (C9H9O2N3.HCl.H2O)
 5g of sodium chloride (NaCl)
 2.2g of sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate (NaH2PO4.2H2O)
 The solution is brought to pH 5.5 with 0.1 mol sodium hydroxide solution.
Preparation of test specimens:
If the textile to be used is fabric either:
 Attach a specimen measuring 40mmx100mm to a piece of the multifibre
adjacent fabric also measuring 40mmx100mm, by sewing along one of the
shorter sides with the multifibre next to the face of the fabric.
Or
 Attach a specimen measuring 40mmx100mm between the two single fibre
adjacent fabrics, also measuring 40mmx100mm, by sewing along one of the
shorter sides.

70 | P a g e
Process:
1. Lay out the composite specimen smooth in a flat-bottomed dish and cover
with the solution. Thoroughly wet one composite specimen in the alkaline
solution at a liquor-ratio of 50:1 and allow it to remain in the solution for 30
minutes. Press and move it from time to time to ensure good and uniform
penetration of the liquor.
2. After this time interval, pour off the solutions and wipe the excess liquor off the
specimen using two glass rods.
3. Place the composite specimen between two of the acrylic plates, which are
placed on the frame of the perspirometer. Remember to use one frame for
acid and one frame for alkaline solution.
4. Repeat procedure for all specimens required.
5. After application of the loading weight (s), tighten the nuts on the top clamping
plate and remove both the loading block and the extra weight (if used).
6. Pour off any excess liquor. Place each perspirometer containing the
specimens in an oven for 4 hrs at 37o
C + 2o
C.
7. Open out each specimen by breaking the stitching on one of the shorter sides.
8. Dry the specimen in the air at a temperature not exceeding 60o
C with the 2 or
3 parts in contact only at the line of stitching.
#-Test: Colourfastness to light-20 AFU (Test Method: AATCC 16E)
Equipment: Water-cooled machine or Xenon arc lamp (ATLAS Cl 3000 + XENON
ARC WEATHER-O-METER)
Procedure:
The resistance of a material to a change in its colour characteristics as a result of
exposure of the material to sunlight or an artificial light source.
The machine is run under the following exposure condition:
Exposure conditions:
Black panel temperature: 63 + 1o
C

71 | P a g e
Dry bulb temperature: 43 + 2o
C
Relative humidity: 30 + 5 %
Total number of segments: 1
Duration time: Irradiance
Controlling back sensor: BPT
Black temperature must be active.
Irradiance/wattage: 1.10 W/m2
Cycle: Light
Duration: 85 kJ/m2
(Approximately: 22 hrs)
Specimen spray: Off
Rack spray: Off
Xenon lamp filters: Inner (Sodium borosilicate); Outer (Soda lime)
Specific amount of exposure made under the specified condition, where one AFU is
1/20th
of the light on exposure required to produce a colour change equal to step 4
on the grey scale (AATCC L-series) for colour change or 1.73 + 0.3 CIELAB units of
colour difference on AATCC blue wool light fastness standard L4.
The AATCC standard fading units are used to measure the dosage of radiation given
to each test specimen, the end point of the test being defined by the fading units for
the selected standard (AATCC Blue Wool Standard Scale L2-L9).
#-Test: Tensile Strength (in kg) (Test method: ASTM D 5034:1995)
Equipment: universal Testing Machine (Tinius Olsen, model: H10KS by SDL-
ATLAS)
Procedure:

72 | P a g e
350mm x 100mm using template.
2. Fold the sample at 100mm from one end and stitch at 12mm from the fold.
There will be 14 stitches per inch. Then cut the fold.
3. Switch on the machine and the computer.
4. Open Q. Mat test zone. Open the test method (ASTM D434:1995) and put
test number.
5. Load range: 1000N
6. Extension range: 50mm
7. Test speed: Fixed
8. 0.252 is slippage resistance (Fixed)
9. First load the seamed portion at the jaw. Grip it by the foot paddle. Firm the
grip by pressing double green button.
10.Start test at the computer.
11.Then load the unseamed portion and repeat the above procedure.
12.Computer screen will show the results of tensile strength and seam strength
respectively.
13.Minimum tolerance limit is:
For below 110 GSM: 10.0 kg for warp and 9.0 kg for weft
For above 110 GSM: 15.0 kg for warp and 13.0 kg for weft
#-Test: Pilling resistance (Martindale) (Test Method-4970)
Equipment: Martindale pilling and abrasion tester (Model M235)
Make: SDL ATLAS Ltd.
Sample preparation
 For each primary sample unit, take one full width piece of fabric that is 1m in
length along the selvedge, after removing a 1m length.
 Unless otherwise specified, samples should be washed or dry cleaned before
cutting the test specimen.
 Cut a piece of circular specimens from each swatch in the laboratory sample
with one of each pair of specimens being 38 mm in diameter and other 140
mm in diameter.

73 | P a g e
 Avoid areas with wrinkles or other distortions.
Procedure:
1. Perform all tests in the standard atmosphere for textile testings.
2. Mount one 140 mm diameter of standard felt and one fabric specimen on
each table. Place one 38 mm diameter disk of 3mm polyurethane foam and a
specimen of the same fabric in each of the holders, making sure the face of
the fabric are exposed for both specimens.
3. Place the specimen holders on the same table as the other fabric specimen
and insert a spindle into each specimen holder to give a pressure on the
larger specimen of approximately 3kpa. This pressure is the same as any
other setup but without additional weights.
4. Set the preset counter at 1000 revolutions and start the machine.
The degree of pilling should be assessed using the following 5-point scale:
5 – No pilling
4 – Slight pilling
3 – Moderate pilling
2 – Severe pilling
1 – Very severe pilling
When appearance falls between two of the descriptions given above half values may
be given.
#-Test: Abrasion resistance (Martindale) (ASTM D 4966)
Equipment: Martindale pilling and abrasion tester (Model M235)
Make: SDL ATLAS Ltd.
Procedure:
1. For acceptance testing of garments, take one garment from each carton.

74 | P a g e
2. Condition the specimen in standard atmospheric condition for testing textile,
which is 21 + 1o
C and 65 + 2 % relative humidity for at least 4 hours before
testing.
3. On each testing table, place a piece of felt, approximately 5.5 inches, followed
by a piece of the standard fabric sample size. Place the mounting weight on
the table to flatten the fabric or felt pieces. Secure the fabric or felt to the table
with the mounting weight in place, then remove the weight and inspect for
tucks or ridges. If necessary, repeat the mounting process.
4. Assemble the holder by placing the specimen face down into the specimen
holder. For having a mass/unit area less than 14.7 yd2
(500 g/m2
) place a 1 ¼
inches (38 mm) disk of polyurethane foam between the specimen and the
metal insert. Assemble the holder according to manufacturer’s instructions.
5. Place the assembled holder on the machine above the table with the fabric or
felt pieces and add the required weight to give a pressure on each specimen
of 1.31 + 0.03 psi (9 + 0.2 kpa). Set the counter system to record the desired
movements and start the machine.
Evaluation:
The end point is reached when there is two or more yarn cut.

75 | P a g e
JAYASHREE TEXTILE
Aditya Birla Nuvo's textile division
Fabric Division, Rishra
SAMPLE OF FABRIC

76 | P a g e
JAYASHREE TEXTILE
SAMPLE OF FABRIC

77 | P a g e
JAYASHREE TEXTILE
SAMPLE OF FABRIC

78 | P a g e
JAYASHREE TEXTILE
SAMPLE OF FABRIC

79 | P a g e
JAYASHREE TEXTILE
SAMPLE OF FABRIC

80 | P a g e
LEARNING OUTCOME
1. A thorough knowledge of the industrial environment.
2. A thorough knowledge of the manufacturing processes in details.
3. The practical knowledge about all of the machines is known in details.
4. Practical knowledge about the tests and the quality control procedures.
5. Practical observation of the workings of the machines.

81 | P a g e
REFERENCE
1. Wikipedia
2. Jayashree textiles official website
3. Quality control department of Jayashree textiles
4. Handbook on testing of Jayashree textiles
5. Information from powerpoint presentations and word documents from quality
department of Jayashree textiles
6. Information collected from the industry

Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltd

More Related Content

What's hot

Viewers also liked

Similar to Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltd

Recently uploaded

In this document

Jaya shree textile-rishra-kolkata(aditya birla nuvo ltd