by Spike Carlsen 
More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 
30 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
5 
Roll-out 
pantry cabinet 
p.44 
Chances are, your kitchen 
has plenty of storage 
space—it’s just that a 
good chunk of it is hidden in the 
hard-to-get-at corners, nooks and 
crannies of your cabinets. Deep base 
cabinets and corner cabinets pose 
particular problems. 
We’re going to show you five 
projects that create more storage space 
and make existing cabinet space more 
accessible. Each project is constructed 
using readily available lumber, 
plywood, hardware, L-moldings, glue 
and screws. For speed and accuracy, 
we recommend you borrow, buy or 
rent (about $20 per day) a power miter 
saw. We start with the easiest project 
and end with the hardest, so if you’re 
a beginner, you can build your do-it-yourself 
skills and confidence as you 
work your way through. 
Since many cabinet openings differ 
from ours in height and width, we’ll 
concentrate on the basic steps and 
“key measurements” rather than 
exact dimensions. 
Here’s what it takes. 
Some of these projects 
mount to cabinet doors 
or face frames. Make 
sure your cabinets, doors 
and hinges are in good 
shape and that you don’t 
overload your finished 
projects with heavy cans 
and other objects. 
Tip 
1 
Door-mounted 
spice rack 
p.32
5projects that 
create 
more 
space 
in your cabinets... 
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 2001 31 
2 
4 
Door-mounted 
lid rack 
p.32 
3 
Swing-down 
cookbook rack 
p.36 
Glide-out and 
swing-out shelves 
p.38
1 2 Door-mounted spice and lid racks 
More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 
1MEASURE the distance between the two vertical 
stiles and the two horizontal rails to determine the 
outside dimensions of your spice rack. Cut existing 
shelves back 2 in. so they don’t interfere with the rack 
when the door is closed. 
32 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
2TRANSFER the dimensions from Fig. A onto 
1/2 x 2-1/2 in. side boards. Cut out the sides of 
the spice rack. Drill 1-in. holes to create the circular 
shape, then finish the cutout with a jigsaw. Drill 5/16-in. 
holes for the dowels. Sand the edges and surfaces smooth. 
These simple racks will help transform those chaotic 
gangs of spice bottles and pan lids into orderly regi-ments. 
We show you how to build only the spice rack; 
the lid rack uses the same steps but without the shelves. 
Each spice rack can hold 20 to 30 bottles, and each lid 
rack two to six lids, depending on the height and width 
of your cabinet doors. Before building, measure your 
spice bottles and lids to determine the spacing of your 
shelves and dowels. Here are other key measurements 
and clearances to keep an 
eye on: 
Existing shelf depth. If the 
existing cabinet shelves are 
full depth, narrow them by 
about 2 in. to accommodate 
each door-mounted rack. 
Shelves that are permanently 
affixed in grooves in the 
cabinet sides will need to be 
cut in place with a jigsaw. 
Adjustable shelves can be 
OUTSIDE-TO-OUTSIDE 
RACK 
MEASUREMENT 
VERTICAL 
STILE 
HORIZONTAL 
RAIL 
CLAMP 
1" HOLE 
1" SPADE 
BIT 
5/16" 
DRILL BIT 
1/2" x 2-1/2" 
BOARDS 
CUT SHELVES SO 
FRONT EDGE IS 2-1/2" 
FROM BACK OF DOOR 
JIGSAW 
&
4CLAMP the finished rack to the door, then drill 
angled pilot holes through the rack and into the 
door every 8 in. Secure with brad nails (remove 
the door for this step if you find you need a more solid 
surface for hammering). Use carpenter’s glue for a more 
permanent installation. 
Tip 
removed, cut along the backside 
with a circular saw or table saw, 
then replaced. You may need to 
move brackets or add holes to 
remount narrowed shelves. 
Spice rack depth and position-ing. 
Make certain the new rack 
won’t hit the cabinet frame when 
the door swings. We found that fit-ting 
the rack between the two 2-in. 
wide vertical stiles (Photo 1) gave us 
adequate room. If your doors are 
solid wood or laminate, hold in 
place a scrap of wood the same 
depth as the spice rack (2-1/2 in. 
was the depth we used) and swing 
the door. Move it away from the 
door edge until it no longer makes 
contact with the cabinet frame, then 
mark the door. This will determine 
the overall width of your spice rack. 
We used soft, easy-to-nail pine 
and basswood for both the spice 
and the lid racks. If you’re using a 
harder wood, like maple or oak, 
position the pieces, then predrill 
34 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
Use high-gloss 
polyurethane for 
natural wood, 
high-gloss enamel 
for painted wood. 
These finishes are 
more “scrubbable.” 
holes through the side pieces and 
into the shelf ends. This will prevent 
splitting and make nailing easier. 
Install your shelves one at a time so 
you don’t have to balance and juggle 
multiple pieces as you work. Always 
nail on a flat, solid surface. 
3GLUE AND NAIL the shelves in place one at a 
time, using 3d finish nails. Then use 3/4-in. brads 
to pin the dowels in place. Sink all nailheads 
using a nail set. Apply polyurethane or other finish to 
match the cabinets. 
More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 
1/2" x 2-1/2" 
SHELVES 
3/4" 
BRAD 
5/16" 
DOWELS 
1/16" 
DRILL BIT 
CLAMP 
FIG. A 
SWING-OUT 
SPICE RACK 
Dimensions will vary according to the 
size of your cabinet doors 
1" DIA. 
CUTOUT 
CABINET 
RAIL 
3d 
FINISH 
NAILS 
BRAD 
NAILS 
5/16" 
DOWEL 
1/2" x 2-1/2" 
BOARDS 
CABINET 
STILE 
1/4" 
2" 
3/4" 
1/2"
Swing-down cookbook rack 
1CUT the 1/2-in. thick plywood base to size. To get 
straight cuts, measure from the edge of your circu-lar 
saw base to the edge of the blade, then clamp a 
straight board to the plywood that distance from your 
cutting line to serve as a guide. Cut with the ply-wood’s 
“good” side down. 
36 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
2GLUE AND NAIL the 3/4 x 3/4-in. lip to the front 
of the base, then “picture frame” the plywood 
with L-moldings. For an exact measurement, cut 
one end at 45 degrees on a miter saw, hold it in position 
and mark the other end. Put a “reminder mark” on the 
board so you remember which direction to cut the angle. 
Secure the pieces with carpenter’s glue and 3d nails. 
When counter space is at a 
minimum and counter mess at a 
maximum, this swing-down rack 
will keep your cookbook up and 
out of the fray. The special spring-loaded 
brackets allow you to 
swing your cookbook down when 
you need it, then out of the way 
when you’re done. 
Our cookbook platform tucks 
under a single cabinet. But you 
can make your platform larger to 
hold larger books, then mount it 
beneath two cabinets. With a little 
creativity, you can use this same 
hardware to create a swing-down 
knife rack or spice rack too. 
Fold-down brackets (No. 
00S30.02) are available for $17.95 
plus shipping from Lee Valley 
Tools, P.O. Box 1780, Ogdens-burg, 
NY 13669; (800) 871-8158. 
www.leevalley.com 
3d FINISH 
NAILS 
3/4" x 3/4" 
LIP 
L-MOLDINGS 
GLUE 
STRAIGHT-EDGE 
3 
SUPPORT 
BLOCKS 
45- 
DEGREE 
ANGLES
MACHINE 
BOLT 
SWING-DOWN 
HINGES 
3MOUNT the hinges to your base using wood 
screws. Hold the assembled unit in position 
under the cabinet, then mark the holes for the 
brackets (a two-person job). Drill the holes, then 
secure the brackets to the cabinet using short 
machine screws, washers and nuts. 
FIG. B 
SWING-DOWN 
COOKBOOK RACK 
Overall dimensions can vary 
according to space available 
MACHINE BOLT 
WITH WASHER 
AND LOCK NUT 
More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 2001 37 
PLYWOOD 
3/4" x 3/4" LIP 
SWING-DOWN 
HINGES 
3d FINISH 
NAIL 
1" x 1" 
L-MOLDINGS
Blind-corner glide-out and swing-out shelves 
1GLUE AND NAIL the 1x3s together using 4d fin-ish 
nails, then secure the plywood bottom with 
3d finish nails. 
38 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
Blind-corner cabinets— 
those with a blank face 
that allows another cab-inet 
to butt into them— 
may be great for aging 
wine, but they’re darn 
near impossible to see 
and reach into. This 
pair of accessories puts 
an end to this hidden 
wasteland. The hinged 
shelf swings out of the 
way, and the gliding shelf slides forward so you can 
access food items stored in the back. You can use the 
same hardware and techniques for making base 
cabinets more accessible too. 
The key measurements and clearances: 
Glide-out shelf dimensions. You can only make the 
unit as long as the door opening is wide (or else you 
can’t fit it in!). Make the unit about 1/2 in. narrower 
than the inside width of the cabinet. 
3d FINISH 
NAILS 
1x3 
1/2" 
PLYWOOD 
BOTTOM 
1" x 1" 
L-MOLDING 
SUPPORT 
L-MOLDING TO 
COVER BOTTOM 
EDGE OF TRAY 
1/2" 
PLYWOOD 
4 
Build the glide-out shelf 
2CUT out the two plywood sides, then glue and 
nail the corners. Connect the trays to the two 
plywood sides using 1-in. drywall screws, then 
cut and nail L-molding to support the front corner. Cut 
and install L-moldings to support and cover the exposed 
plywood edges of the upper tray. Install 3/4-in. screen 
molding to cover the plywood edges of the bottom tray. 
More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 
PLYWOOD 
SIDES 
GLIDE-OUT 
SHELF 
HINGED 
SWING-OUT 
SHELF
■ These two measurements cannot 
exceed cabinet opening width 
40 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
SECURE UNIT 
TO MOUNTING 
BASE WITH 3/4" 
DRYWALL SCREW 
More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 
Beg, borrow or rent a compressor, 
finish nailer and brad gun, if you 
can. You’ll work faster, eliminate 
hammer marks and split the 
wood less often than you would 
hand-nailing. 
Tip 
COMPLETED 
TRAY UNIT 
BLIND 
CORNER 
CABINET 
1/2" 
PLYWOOD 
L-MOLDING 
1x3 
1x4 
PINE 
1/2" 
PLYWOOD 
MOUNTING 
BASE 
3/4" SCREEN 
MOLDING 
PLYWOOD 
MOUNTING 
BASE 
METAL 
SLIDES 
3CUT the mounting base plywood slightly smaller 
than the other tray bottoms, then secure the two 
slides parallel to each other about 1 in. from each 
edge. Slip this mounting base into the opening, extend 
the slides, then screw them to the cabinet bottom at the 
rear of the cabinet. Install the slides parallel to the cabinet 
sides, so the base slides back and forth freely. 
FIG. C 
GLIDE-OUT AND 
SWING-OUT SHELVES 
1" x 1" 
L-MOLDING SLIDES 
1x10 CUT 
TO FIT 
1/2" 
SPACE 
PIANO 
HINGE 
1x4 
MOLDING 
3d 
FINISH 
NAIL 
2" 
DRYWALL 
SCREWS 
1/2" 
SPACE 
22-1/2 DEGREE 
MITER CUTS 
CABINET 
OPENING 
WIDTH 
4SCREW the tray unit to the mounting base using 
3/4-in. screws. After installing the first screw, slide 
the unit forward and back, then adjust it until it runs 
parallel to the cabinet sides and install three more screws. 
■ Shelf unit dimensions will 
vary according to cabinet size 
1/2" 
SHELF 
BOTTOM
Build the swing-out shelf 
COUNTER-SINK 
BIT 
5CUT the 1x10 swing-out uprights to length and 
width (one should be 3/4 in. narrower than the 
other). Use a countersink bit to predrill holes along 
one edge, then glue and screw the two edges together. 
The diagonal measurement (see Fig. C) should be less than 
the cabinet opening. 
Test-fit your shelf 
units in the cabinet 
as you work. Tip 
42 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
6ASSEMBLE the shelf unit. First mark the shelf 
positions on the uprights and predrill holes from 
the front side. Create the three shelves by cutting a 
1x10 to length and width, then cutting the corner at 
45 degrees. Hold the shelves in place and drive drywall 
screws through these holes from the backside into the 
shelves. Cut the 22-1/2 degree angles on the front mold-ings 
and secure them with 3d finish nails. You can use any 
type of wide decorative molding that’s at least 1/2 x 3 in. 
7SCREW the piano hinge to the front edge of the 
swing-out unit, then to the edge of the cabinet 
face frame. Make certain the swing-out has 1/2 in. 
of clearance top and bottom. Use an assistant to help 
you lift and hold the unit at the proper height while 
you’re securing it to the cabinet. 
2" COARSE-THREAD 
DRYWALL SCREW 
Use a damp sponge to wipe up glue drips 
immediately. It’ll save hours of sanding 
down the line. Tip 
PIANO 
HINGE 
DIAGONAL 
MEASUREMENT 
CANNOT EXCEED 
OPENING WIDTH 
OPENING WIDTH 
22-1/2 
DEGREE 
MITER CUTS 
EQUAL 
LENGTHS 
1x10 
SHELF 
45- 
DEGREE 
CORNER 
CUT 
PREDRILL 
HOLES, 
THEN DRIVE 
SCREWS INTO 
SHELF FROM 
BACKSIDE 
1x10 
UPRIGHTS 
CARPENTER’S 
GLUE 
Swing-out tray dimensions. The corner-to-corner or 
diagonal measurement of the unit (Fig. C) can’t exceed 
the width of the door opening (or else that won’t fit 
either!). Make the unit 
about 1 in. shorter than 
the opening height so it 
has room to swing 
freely when installed. 
Piano hinges (No. 19283) and bottom slides are 
available from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 
4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340; (800) 279-4441. 
www.rockler.com. The front moldings (No. 673) are 
manufactured by House of Fara (800-334-1732; 
www.houseoffara.com). House of Fara products are 
available at Menards, Home Depot and Lowe’s stores. 
Call the company if you need help finding a dealer. 
More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤
1MEASURE the cabinet face frame opening, then sub-tract 
the height of the top and bottom glides. Use the 
guidelines given to arrive at the depth, width and 
height of your pantry unit. Be sure to install the bottom 
glides so they run parallel to the cabinet sides. If neces-sary, 
use plywood to raise the cabinet bottom even with 
the bottom lip of the face frame. 
44 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
2INSTALL the top glide support and top glide so 
the support is level and flush to the top of the 
frame opening. Screw plywood flanges to each 
end of the 1x3 support beforehand to make it simpler to 
secure it to the front and back of the cabinet. 
Roll-out pantry cabinet 
Most cabinet manufacturers now include roll-out 
shelves in their base cabinets. But if you don’t have 
this convenience, this project will one-up those 
shelves. Here we’ll show you how to make an entire 
roll-out pantry. 
The hardware consists of two heavy-duty 
bottom-mounted slides and one center-mounted 
top slide that together can support 130 lbs. Again, 
construct your unit to suit your needs. We made 
our bottom tray 3-1/2 in. tall and the upper ones 
2-1/2 in. tall. You may want to include only two 
trays if you’ll be storing cereal boxes and other 
tall packages. 
Since you’ll be converting your door from 
swinging to rolling mode, you’ll need to remove the 
door and hinges. You’ll also have to remove the 
existing handle and reinstall it centered on the door. 
If your hardware mounts from the backside, install 
it before attaching the door (Photo 6, p. 48). 
SUBTRACT 1/2" 
FROM CABINET 
OPENING TO 
DETERMINE 
PANTRY UNIT 
WIDTH 
SHELF UNIT 
HEIGHT (MINUS 
DEPTH OF TOP 
BRACKET) 
PLYWOOD 
FLANGES 
1x3 TOP 
GLIDE 
SUPPORT 
TOP 
GLIDE 
FACE 
FRAME 
AND DOOR 
HINGES 
REMOVED 
PLYWOOD 
FILLER 
BOTTOM 
GLIDES 
5 
More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 
TOP OF FRAME 
OPENING
1x4 
6d 
FINISH 
NAIL 
3ASSEMBLE the pantry trays using 1x4s, 1x3s, 6d 
nails and carpenter’s glue. Use the plywood bot-toms 
to “square up” the trays before nailing them 
on. L-moldings support and cover the plywood edges of 
the upper two trays; 3/4-in. screen molding covers the 
exposed plywood edges of the bottom tray. 
The key measurements and clearances: 
Roll-out unit measurements. The ply-wood 
front and back panels should be 
about 1/8 in. shorter than the distance 
between the installed top and bottom glides 
(Photos 1 and 2). The width of the unit 
should be 1/2 in. narrower than the cabinet 
opening. The depth of the unit should be 
1/2 in. less than the depth of the cabinet 
(not including the face frame). 
Accuride Pantry slides (No. 91968) are 
available for $57.99 plus shipping from 
Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 
4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340- 
9701; (800) 279-4441. www.rockler.com 
46 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
4SECURE the trays to the 1/2-in. plywood uprights 
using glue and drywall screws. Arrange the spac-ing 
of the trays to meet your needs. 
More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 
1/2" 
PLYWOOD 
BOTTOM 
3/4" 
SCREEN 
MOLDING 1/2" 
PLYWOOD 
UPRIGHT 
2" COARSE-THREAD 
DRYWALL 
SCREWS INTO 
ENDS OF 1x3s 
AND 1x4s 
1" 
DRYWALL 
SCREWS 
1x4 
FIG. D 
ROLL-OUT PANTRY CABINET 
PANTRY 
BOTTOM 
GLIDES 
PLYWOOD 
FILLER 
EXISTING CABINET 
FACE FRAME 
EXISTING CABINET 
BOTTOM 
1/2" 
PLYWOOD 
UPRIGHT 
TOP 
GLIDE 
1x3 
1x3 TOP 
GLIDE 
SUPPORT 
1/2" 
PLYWOOD 
1x3 
L-MOLDING 
3/4" SCREEN 
MOLDING 
EXISTING 
CABINET 
DOOR 
BOTTOM GLIDE 
Shelf unit dimensions will vary according to cabinet size.
BRACKET-TO-SHELF 
UNIT 
SCREWS 
48 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 
6CLAMP the cabinet door to the front of the 
pantry assembly; center it and make the height 
even with adjacent doors. Predrill eight holes 
through the plywood upright and drive screws into the 
back of the cabinet door. After installing two screws, 
close the door to check its alignment with the adjacent 
doors. Make adjustments, then install the remaining 
screws. Use short screws so they don’t penetrate the 
front of the cabinet door (duh!). 
TOP GLIDE 
SECURED TO 
1x3 SUPPORT 
5SCREW the tray assembly to the bottom runners, 
making sure it’s centered in the opening and running 
parallel to the cabinet sides. The extended portion of 
the top slide is secured to a 1x3 screwed between the two 
plywood uprights. You can loosen this 1x3, then adjust the 
height so the top glide runs flat and smooth. 
SPRING 
CLAMPS 
About our kitchen 
Allure 
stainless steel 
vent hood 
from Broan, 
(800) 558-1711 
Piermont maple 
cabinets with 
honey spice finish 
from Kraftmaid, 
(888) 562-7744 
1x6 tongue-and-groove pine 
(Sherwin-Williams paint, 
Moon Slice, No. 1647) 
1x3 
backsplash 
ledge 
(site-built) 
Gallery stainless steel 
stove from Frigidaire, 
(800) 374-4432 
3" x 3" blocks with 
wings (site-built) 
Gilded Elements 
EM2-2T laminate 
from Nevamar, 
(800) 638-4380 
Ruby laminate cork floor 
from Wicander, ($9.75 per sq. ft.), 
www.wicanders.com/wic_us.html 
Pendant light fixture 
(and cabinet hardware) 
from Restoration Hardware, 
(800) 762-1005 
Molding (Sherwin- 
Williams paint, 
Yorkshire Brown, 
No. 1097) 
PLYWOOD 
UPRIGHT 
Hartland sink 
from Kohler, 
(800) 456-4537 
Faucet (N470-WH) 
from Delta, 
(317) 848-1812 
Art Direction • BECKY PFLUGER 
Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE 
Illustration • FRANK ROHRBACH 
Kitchen Design • KATHERINE HILLBRAND, 
SALA ARCHITECTS

Kitchen storage

  • 1.
    by Spike Carlsen More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 30 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 5 Roll-out pantry cabinet p.44 Chances are, your kitchen has plenty of storage space—it’s just that a good chunk of it is hidden in the hard-to-get-at corners, nooks and crannies of your cabinets. Deep base cabinets and corner cabinets pose particular problems. We’re going to show you five projects that create more storage space and make existing cabinet space more accessible. Each project is constructed using readily available lumber, plywood, hardware, L-moldings, glue and screws. For speed and accuracy, we recommend you borrow, buy or rent (about $20 per day) a power miter saw. We start with the easiest project and end with the hardest, so if you’re a beginner, you can build your do-it-yourself skills and confidence as you work your way through. Since many cabinet openings differ from ours in height and width, we’ll concentrate on the basic steps and “key measurements” rather than exact dimensions. Here’s what it takes. Some of these projects mount to cabinet doors or face frames. Make sure your cabinets, doors and hinges are in good shape and that you don’t overload your finished projects with heavy cans and other objects. Tip 1 Door-mounted spice rack p.32
  • 2.
    5projects that create more space in your cabinets... THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 2001 31 2 4 Door-mounted lid rack p.32 3 Swing-down cookbook rack p.36 Glide-out and swing-out shelves p.38
  • 3.
    1 2 Door-mountedspice and lid racks More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 1MEASURE the distance between the two vertical stiles and the two horizontal rails to determine the outside dimensions of your spice rack. Cut existing shelves back 2 in. so they don’t interfere with the rack when the door is closed. 32 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 2TRANSFER the dimensions from Fig. A onto 1/2 x 2-1/2 in. side boards. Cut out the sides of the spice rack. Drill 1-in. holes to create the circular shape, then finish the cutout with a jigsaw. Drill 5/16-in. holes for the dowels. Sand the edges and surfaces smooth. These simple racks will help transform those chaotic gangs of spice bottles and pan lids into orderly regi-ments. We show you how to build only the spice rack; the lid rack uses the same steps but without the shelves. Each spice rack can hold 20 to 30 bottles, and each lid rack two to six lids, depending on the height and width of your cabinet doors. Before building, measure your spice bottles and lids to determine the spacing of your shelves and dowels. Here are other key measurements and clearances to keep an eye on: Existing shelf depth. If the existing cabinet shelves are full depth, narrow them by about 2 in. to accommodate each door-mounted rack. Shelves that are permanently affixed in grooves in the cabinet sides will need to be cut in place with a jigsaw. Adjustable shelves can be OUTSIDE-TO-OUTSIDE RACK MEASUREMENT VERTICAL STILE HORIZONTAL RAIL CLAMP 1" HOLE 1" SPADE BIT 5/16" DRILL BIT 1/2" x 2-1/2" BOARDS CUT SHELVES SO FRONT EDGE IS 2-1/2" FROM BACK OF DOOR JIGSAW &
  • 4.
    4CLAMP the finishedrack to the door, then drill angled pilot holes through the rack and into the door every 8 in. Secure with brad nails (remove the door for this step if you find you need a more solid surface for hammering). Use carpenter’s glue for a more permanent installation. Tip removed, cut along the backside with a circular saw or table saw, then replaced. You may need to move brackets or add holes to remount narrowed shelves. Spice rack depth and position-ing. Make certain the new rack won’t hit the cabinet frame when the door swings. We found that fit-ting the rack between the two 2-in. wide vertical stiles (Photo 1) gave us adequate room. If your doors are solid wood or laminate, hold in place a scrap of wood the same depth as the spice rack (2-1/2 in. was the depth we used) and swing the door. Move it away from the door edge until it no longer makes contact with the cabinet frame, then mark the door. This will determine the overall width of your spice rack. We used soft, easy-to-nail pine and basswood for both the spice and the lid racks. If you’re using a harder wood, like maple or oak, position the pieces, then predrill 34 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN Use high-gloss polyurethane for natural wood, high-gloss enamel for painted wood. These finishes are more “scrubbable.” holes through the side pieces and into the shelf ends. This will prevent splitting and make nailing easier. Install your shelves one at a time so you don’t have to balance and juggle multiple pieces as you work. Always nail on a flat, solid surface. 3GLUE AND NAIL the shelves in place one at a time, using 3d finish nails. Then use 3/4-in. brads to pin the dowels in place. Sink all nailheads using a nail set. Apply polyurethane or other finish to match the cabinets. More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 1/2" x 2-1/2" SHELVES 3/4" BRAD 5/16" DOWELS 1/16" DRILL BIT CLAMP FIG. A SWING-OUT SPICE RACK Dimensions will vary according to the size of your cabinet doors 1" DIA. CUTOUT CABINET RAIL 3d FINISH NAILS BRAD NAILS 5/16" DOWEL 1/2" x 2-1/2" BOARDS CABINET STILE 1/4" 2" 3/4" 1/2"
  • 5.
    Swing-down cookbook rack 1CUT the 1/2-in. thick plywood base to size. To get straight cuts, measure from the edge of your circu-lar saw base to the edge of the blade, then clamp a straight board to the plywood that distance from your cutting line to serve as a guide. Cut with the ply-wood’s “good” side down. 36 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 2GLUE AND NAIL the 3/4 x 3/4-in. lip to the front of the base, then “picture frame” the plywood with L-moldings. For an exact measurement, cut one end at 45 degrees on a miter saw, hold it in position and mark the other end. Put a “reminder mark” on the board so you remember which direction to cut the angle. Secure the pieces with carpenter’s glue and 3d nails. When counter space is at a minimum and counter mess at a maximum, this swing-down rack will keep your cookbook up and out of the fray. The special spring-loaded brackets allow you to swing your cookbook down when you need it, then out of the way when you’re done. Our cookbook platform tucks under a single cabinet. But you can make your platform larger to hold larger books, then mount it beneath two cabinets. With a little creativity, you can use this same hardware to create a swing-down knife rack or spice rack too. Fold-down brackets (No. 00S30.02) are available for $17.95 plus shipping from Lee Valley Tools, P.O. Box 1780, Ogdens-burg, NY 13669; (800) 871-8158. www.leevalley.com 3d FINISH NAILS 3/4" x 3/4" LIP L-MOLDINGS GLUE STRAIGHT-EDGE 3 SUPPORT BLOCKS 45- DEGREE ANGLES
  • 6.
    MACHINE BOLT SWING-DOWN HINGES 3MOUNT the hinges to your base using wood screws. Hold the assembled unit in position under the cabinet, then mark the holes for the brackets (a two-person job). Drill the holes, then secure the brackets to the cabinet using short machine screws, washers and nuts. FIG. B SWING-DOWN COOKBOOK RACK Overall dimensions can vary according to space available MACHINE BOLT WITH WASHER AND LOCK NUT More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 2001 37 PLYWOOD 3/4" x 3/4" LIP SWING-DOWN HINGES 3d FINISH NAIL 1" x 1" L-MOLDINGS
  • 7.
    Blind-corner glide-out andswing-out shelves 1GLUE AND NAIL the 1x3s together using 4d fin-ish nails, then secure the plywood bottom with 3d finish nails. 38 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN Blind-corner cabinets— those with a blank face that allows another cab-inet to butt into them— may be great for aging wine, but they’re darn near impossible to see and reach into. This pair of accessories puts an end to this hidden wasteland. The hinged shelf swings out of the way, and the gliding shelf slides forward so you can access food items stored in the back. You can use the same hardware and techniques for making base cabinets more accessible too. The key measurements and clearances: Glide-out shelf dimensions. You can only make the unit as long as the door opening is wide (or else you can’t fit it in!). Make the unit about 1/2 in. narrower than the inside width of the cabinet. 3d FINISH NAILS 1x3 1/2" PLYWOOD BOTTOM 1" x 1" L-MOLDING SUPPORT L-MOLDING TO COVER BOTTOM EDGE OF TRAY 1/2" PLYWOOD 4 Build the glide-out shelf 2CUT out the two plywood sides, then glue and nail the corners. Connect the trays to the two plywood sides using 1-in. drywall screws, then cut and nail L-molding to support the front corner. Cut and install L-moldings to support and cover the exposed plywood edges of the upper tray. Install 3/4-in. screen molding to cover the plywood edges of the bottom tray. More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ PLYWOOD SIDES GLIDE-OUT SHELF HINGED SWING-OUT SHELF
  • 8.
    ■ These twomeasurements cannot exceed cabinet opening width 40 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SECURE UNIT TO MOUNTING BASE WITH 3/4" DRYWALL SCREW More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ Beg, borrow or rent a compressor, finish nailer and brad gun, if you can. You’ll work faster, eliminate hammer marks and split the wood less often than you would hand-nailing. Tip COMPLETED TRAY UNIT BLIND CORNER CABINET 1/2" PLYWOOD L-MOLDING 1x3 1x4 PINE 1/2" PLYWOOD MOUNTING BASE 3/4" SCREEN MOLDING PLYWOOD MOUNTING BASE METAL SLIDES 3CUT the mounting base plywood slightly smaller than the other tray bottoms, then secure the two slides parallel to each other about 1 in. from each edge. Slip this mounting base into the opening, extend the slides, then screw them to the cabinet bottom at the rear of the cabinet. Install the slides parallel to the cabinet sides, so the base slides back and forth freely. FIG. C GLIDE-OUT AND SWING-OUT SHELVES 1" x 1" L-MOLDING SLIDES 1x10 CUT TO FIT 1/2" SPACE PIANO HINGE 1x4 MOLDING 3d FINISH NAIL 2" DRYWALL SCREWS 1/2" SPACE 22-1/2 DEGREE MITER CUTS CABINET OPENING WIDTH 4SCREW the tray unit to the mounting base using 3/4-in. screws. After installing the first screw, slide the unit forward and back, then adjust it until it runs parallel to the cabinet sides and install three more screws. ■ Shelf unit dimensions will vary according to cabinet size 1/2" SHELF BOTTOM
  • 9.
    Build the swing-outshelf COUNTER-SINK BIT 5CUT the 1x10 swing-out uprights to length and width (one should be 3/4 in. narrower than the other). Use a countersink bit to predrill holes along one edge, then glue and screw the two edges together. The diagonal measurement (see Fig. C) should be less than the cabinet opening. Test-fit your shelf units in the cabinet as you work. Tip 42 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 6ASSEMBLE the shelf unit. First mark the shelf positions on the uprights and predrill holes from the front side. Create the three shelves by cutting a 1x10 to length and width, then cutting the corner at 45 degrees. Hold the shelves in place and drive drywall screws through these holes from the backside into the shelves. Cut the 22-1/2 degree angles on the front mold-ings and secure them with 3d finish nails. You can use any type of wide decorative molding that’s at least 1/2 x 3 in. 7SCREW the piano hinge to the front edge of the swing-out unit, then to the edge of the cabinet face frame. Make certain the swing-out has 1/2 in. of clearance top and bottom. Use an assistant to help you lift and hold the unit at the proper height while you’re securing it to the cabinet. 2" COARSE-THREAD DRYWALL SCREW Use a damp sponge to wipe up glue drips immediately. It’ll save hours of sanding down the line. Tip PIANO HINGE DIAGONAL MEASUREMENT CANNOT EXCEED OPENING WIDTH OPENING WIDTH 22-1/2 DEGREE MITER CUTS EQUAL LENGTHS 1x10 SHELF 45- DEGREE CORNER CUT PREDRILL HOLES, THEN DRIVE SCREWS INTO SHELF FROM BACKSIDE 1x10 UPRIGHTS CARPENTER’S GLUE Swing-out tray dimensions. The corner-to-corner or diagonal measurement of the unit (Fig. C) can’t exceed the width of the door opening (or else that won’t fit either!). Make the unit about 1 in. shorter than the opening height so it has room to swing freely when installed. Piano hinges (No. 19283) and bottom slides are available from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340; (800) 279-4441. www.rockler.com. The front moldings (No. 673) are manufactured by House of Fara (800-334-1732; www.houseoffara.com). House of Fara products are available at Menards, Home Depot and Lowe’s stores. Call the company if you need help finding a dealer. More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤
  • 10.
    1MEASURE the cabinetface frame opening, then sub-tract the height of the top and bottom glides. Use the guidelines given to arrive at the depth, width and height of your pantry unit. Be sure to install the bottom glides so they run parallel to the cabinet sides. If neces-sary, use plywood to raise the cabinet bottom even with the bottom lip of the face frame. 44 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 2INSTALL the top glide support and top glide so the support is level and flush to the top of the frame opening. Screw plywood flanges to each end of the 1x3 support beforehand to make it simpler to secure it to the front and back of the cabinet. Roll-out pantry cabinet Most cabinet manufacturers now include roll-out shelves in their base cabinets. But if you don’t have this convenience, this project will one-up those shelves. Here we’ll show you how to make an entire roll-out pantry. The hardware consists of two heavy-duty bottom-mounted slides and one center-mounted top slide that together can support 130 lbs. Again, construct your unit to suit your needs. We made our bottom tray 3-1/2 in. tall and the upper ones 2-1/2 in. tall. You may want to include only two trays if you’ll be storing cereal boxes and other tall packages. Since you’ll be converting your door from swinging to rolling mode, you’ll need to remove the door and hinges. You’ll also have to remove the existing handle and reinstall it centered on the door. If your hardware mounts from the backside, install it before attaching the door (Photo 6, p. 48). SUBTRACT 1/2" FROM CABINET OPENING TO DETERMINE PANTRY UNIT WIDTH SHELF UNIT HEIGHT (MINUS DEPTH OF TOP BRACKET) PLYWOOD FLANGES 1x3 TOP GLIDE SUPPORT TOP GLIDE FACE FRAME AND DOOR HINGES REMOVED PLYWOOD FILLER BOTTOM GLIDES 5 More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ TOP OF FRAME OPENING
  • 11.
    1x4 6d FINISH NAIL 3ASSEMBLE the pantry trays using 1x4s, 1x3s, 6d nails and carpenter’s glue. Use the plywood bot-toms to “square up” the trays before nailing them on. L-moldings support and cover the plywood edges of the upper two trays; 3/4-in. screen molding covers the exposed plywood edges of the bottom tray. The key measurements and clearances: Roll-out unit measurements. The ply-wood front and back panels should be about 1/8 in. shorter than the distance between the installed top and bottom glides (Photos 1 and 2). The width of the unit should be 1/2 in. narrower than the cabinet opening. The depth of the unit should be 1/2 in. less than the depth of the cabinet (not including the face frame). Accuride Pantry slides (No. 91968) are available for $57.99 plus shipping from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340- 9701; (800) 279-4441. www.rockler.com 46 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 4SECURE the trays to the 1/2-in. plywood uprights using glue and drywall screws. Arrange the spac-ing of the trays to meet your needs. More KITCHEN STORAGE ➤➤ 1/2" PLYWOOD BOTTOM 3/4" SCREEN MOLDING 1/2" PLYWOOD UPRIGHT 2" COARSE-THREAD DRYWALL SCREWS INTO ENDS OF 1x3s AND 1x4s 1" DRYWALL SCREWS 1x4 FIG. D ROLL-OUT PANTRY CABINET PANTRY BOTTOM GLIDES PLYWOOD FILLER EXISTING CABINET FACE FRAME EXISTING CABINET BOTTOM 1/2" PLYWOOD UPRIGHT TOP GLIDE 1x3 1x3 TOP GLIDE SUPPORT 1/2" PLYWOOD 1x3 L-MOLDING 3/4" SCREEN MOLDING EXISTING CABINET DOOR BOTTOM GLIDE Shelf unit dimensions will vary according to cabinet size.
  • 12.
    BRACKET-TO-SHELF UNIT SCREWS 48 SEPTEMBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN 6CLAMP the cabinet door to the front of the pantry assembly; center it and make the height even with adjacent doors. Predrill eight holes through the plywood upright and drive screws into the back of the cabinet door. After installing two screws, close the door to check its alignment with the adjacent doors. Make adjustments, then install the remaining screws. Use short screws so they don’t penetrate the front of the cabinet door (duh!). TOP GLIDE SECURED TO 1x3 SUPPORT 5SCREW the tray assembly to the bottom runners, making sure it’s centered in the opening and running parallel to the cabinet sides. The extended portion of the top slide is secured to a 1x3 screwed between the two plywood uprights. You can loosen this 1x3, then adjust the height so the top glide runs flat and smooth. SPRING CLAMPS About our kitchen Allure stainless steel vent hood from Broan, (800) 558-1711 Piermont maple cabinets with honey spice finish from Kraftmaid, (888) 562-7744 1x6 tongue-and-groove pine (Sherwin-Williams paint, Moon Slice, No. 1647) 1x3 backsplash ledge (site-built) Gallery stainless steel stove from Frigidaire, (800) 374-4432 3" x 3" blocks with wings (site-built) Gilded Elements EM2-2T laminate from Nevamar, (800) 638-4380 Ruby laminate cork floor from Wicander, ($9.75 per sq. ft.), www.wicanders.com/wic_us.html Pendant light fixture (and cabinet hardware) from Restoration Hardware, (800) 762-1005 Molding (Sherwin- Williams paint, Yorkshire Brown, No. 1097) PLYWOOD UPRIGHT Hartland sink from Kohler, (800) 456-4537 Faucet (N470-WH) from Delta, (317) 848-1812 Art Direction • BECKY PFLUGER Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE Illustration • FRANK ROHRBACH Kitchen Design • KATHERINE HILLBRAND, SALA ARCHITECTS