Mercerisati
on
About Mercerisation
• Mercerization is the treatment of
cotton with a strong caustic
solution.
• This is performed on yarn or
fabric, both woven and knits.
Tension may or may not be used.
Inventor John Mercer
Purpose
• Lustre is increased
• Improves absorption, increase in dye
affinity and yield
• Improves breaking strength (improved up
to 20%)
• Improves dimensional stability
• Improves chemical reactivity
• Improves fabric smoothness
• Covers immature cotton fibers
When to Mercerize
•In Greige
•Any step during
preparation
•After bleaching
Observable Changes or
Properties of Mercerised Cotton
• Deconvolution
• Lumen disappears
• Fibers become rounder,
smoother, and more uniform
• When cotton is mercerised slack
(without tension), it shrinks and
shows good elastic properties
Cotton
Unmercerized vs. Mercerized
Fibers
The mercerisation process
• NaOH Conc. : 18 to 22% (55o to 65 o Tw)
• Time of contact : 60 to 75 seconds
• Temp :27o
C
• Shrinkage : Controlled by stenter frame
by stretching back to original width
Caustic concentration
– Lower- Less luster
Time < 30 sec. Incomplete
mercerization
• Yarn stage
–yarn-mercerising machine
• Fabric (continuous mercerisation
process)
–chain mercerisation machine
–chainless mercerizing machine
–chainless-padless continuous
mercerising machine
Machines used
Fixed Roller
Movable Roller
Perforated pipe for
spraying alkali/wash
water
Pointer and
scale to set yarn
tension
A batch of hank yarn
Tray
Rubber Squeezer Roller
Mercerisation of Cotton
Fabric
• 1. Chain mercerising machine – here the
cloth is first allowed to shrink in the
caustic soda solution and subsequently it
is stretched.
• 2. Chainless mercerising machine – in this
case tension is applied to the fabric
during alkali impregnation itself, so the
fabric is not allowed to shrink.
• 3. Pad-less chainless mercerising
machine
Chain Mercerising
Process
1. First alkali impregnation mangle
(alkali concentration = 35-45° Tw;
temp 40° C; time 60-75 sec)
2. Second alkali impregnation mangle
(alkali concentration = 55-65° Tw;
temp 27° C; time 60-75 sec)
3. Stenter (Stretching and washing unit)
4. Recuperator (Steam treatment to wash off
residual alkali)
A Schematic Representation of the Chain
Mercerising Process
1. First alkali impregnation mangle
(alkali concentration = 35-45° Tw; temp 40° C;
time 60-75 sec)
2. Second alkali impregnation mangle
(alkali concentration = 55-65° Tw; temp 27° C;
time 60-75 sec)
3. Stenter (Stretching and washing unit)
4. Recuperator (Steam treatment to wash off
residual alkali)
5. Hot water wash
6. Souring (with dilute mineral acid)
7. Cold water wash
8. Mercerised fabric
3 5 6 874
GREY FABRIC
1 32
Chain Mercerising Process
5. Hot water wash
6. Souring (with dilute mineral
acid)
7. Cold water wash
8. Mercerised fabric
Stenter – Stretching and
Washing Unit
Fabric stretch zone in
stenter
Fabric counter -
current wash
zone
Merceris
ed,
washed
fabric
WATER
Flow
Fabric Movement
Chain I
Chain
II
Clips
Clips
A basic diagram of a stenter unit in a chain mercerising
machine (only some clips are shown)
Disadvantages of the Chain
Mercerising
• Only certain widths of fabric
limited to the stenter width can be
used.
• The stenter unit is very long and
occupies a large amount of
space.
Chainless Mercerising
Machine
• Impregnating unit
• Expanders or stretching rollers
• Recuperator
• Neutralising and washing unit
• The functions of units (a), (c) and (d) and
the conditions of mercerisation are the
same as those for the chain mercerising
machine. Only the stretching process (b)
is different in this case.
Advantages of the Chainless
Mercerisation Machine
• The floor space required is less compared
to chain mercerizing.
• Lightweight fabric can be mercerised
easily. (This is difficult in a chain mercerising
machine.)
• There is no difficulty in mercerising cloths of
different widths.
• No distortion of material takes place. So
checked fabrics can be processed on this
machine without distortion of the design.
• Two or three superimposed fabric pieces
Pad-less Chainless
Mercerisation
• It is designed to mercerise fabric
under tension
• it does not require the use of the
following units.
–1) Impregnating mangles
–2) Chain system (stenter)
Pad-less Chainless
Mercerisation
Important Process
Sequence
• Impregnating Section
• Washing
• Recuperator
DYEING
• The application of color to the whole body
of a textile material with some degree of
fastness.
There are two ways of adding colour to a
textile substrate
– Dyeing
Dyeing completely covers the textile
with colour
--Printing.
adds colour to the fabric surface in
discrete or distinct places.
Materials Dyed
• Fibers
– Stock dyeing
– Dope dyeing
• Yarns
– Skein dyeing
– Package dyeing
– Beam dyeing
Materials Dyed
• Fabrics
– Piece dyeing
– Printing
• Roller –application, resist, discharge
• Flat Screen
• Rotary
– Tie Dyeing
• Garments
– Garment dyeing
Material used
• Dyes and Pigments
–The substances used to colour
textiles can be classified as
dyes or pigments, the
differences between which are
listed in the table below.
Exhaustion Dyeing

Mercerisation

  • 1.
  • 2.
    About Mercerisation • Mercerizationis the treatment of cotton with a strong caustic solution. • This is performed on yarn or fabric, both woven and knits. Tension may or may not be used. Inventor John Mercer
  • 3.
    Purpose • Lustre isincreased • Improves absorption, increase in dye affinity and yield • Improves breaking strength (improved up to 20%) • Improves dimensional stability • Improves chemical reactivity • Improves fabric smoothness • Covers immature cotton fibers
  • 4.
    When to Mercerize •InGreige •Any step during preparation •After bleaching
  • 5.
    Observable Changes or Propertiesof Mercerised Cotton • Deconvolution • Lumen disappears • Fibers become rounder, smoother, and more uniform • When cotton is mercerised slack (without tension), it shrinks and shows good elastic properties
  • 6.
  • 7.
  • 8.
    The mercerisation process •NaOH Conc. : 18 to 22% (55o to 65 o Tw) • Time of contact : 60 to 75 seconds • Temp :27o C • Shrinkage : Controlled by stenter frame by stretching back to original width Caustic concentration – Lower- Less luster Time < 30 sec. Incomplete mercerization
  • 9.
    • Yarn stage –yarn-mercerisingmachine • Fabric (continuous mercerisation process) –chain mercerisation machine –chainless mercerizing machine –chainless-padless continuous mercerising machine Machines used
  • 10.
    Fixed Roller Movable Roller Perforatedpipe for spraying alkali/wash water Pointer and scale to set yarn tension A batch of hank yarn Tray Rubber Squeezer Roller
  • 11.
    Mercerisation of Cotton Fabric •1. Chain mercerising machine – here the cloth is first allowed to shrink in the caustic soda solution and subsequently it is stretched. • 2. Chainless mercerising machine – in this case tension is applied to the fabric during alkali impregnation itself, so the fabric is not allowed to shrink. • 3. Pad-less chainless mercerising machine
  • 12.
    Chain Mercerising Process 1. Firstalkali impregnation mangle (alkali concentration = 35-45° Tw; temp 40° C; time 60-75 sec) 2. Second alkali impregnation mangle (alkali concentration = 55-65° Tw; temp 27° C; time 60-75 sec) 3. Stenter (Stretching and washing unit) 4. Recuperator (Steam treatment to wash off residual alkali)
  • 13.
    A Schematic Representationof the Chain Mercerising Process 1. First alkali impregnation mangle (alkali concentration = 35-45° Tw; temp 40° C; time 60-75 sec) 2. Second alkali impregnation mangle (alkali concentration = 55-65° Tw; temp 27° C; time 60-75 sec) 3. Stenter (Stretching and washing unit) 4. Recuperator (Steam treatment to wash off residual alkali) 5. Hot water wash 6. Souring (with dilute mineral acid) 7. Cold water wash 8. Mercerised fabric 3 5 6 874 GREY FABRIC 1 32
  • 14.
    Chain Mercerising Process 5.Hot water wash 6. Souring (with dilute mineral acid) 7. Cold water wash 8. Mercerised fabric
  • 15.
    Stenter – Stretchingand Washing Unit Fabric stretch zone in stenter Fabric counter - current wash zone Merceris ed, washed fabric WATER Flow Fabric Movement Chain I Chain II Clips Clips A basic diagram of a stenter unit in a chain mercerising machine (only some clips are shown)
  • 16.
    Disadvantages of theChain Mercerising • Only certain widths of fabric limited to the stenter width can be used. • The stenter unit is very long and occupies a large amount of space.
  • 17.
    Chainless Mercerising Machine • Impregnatingunit • Expanders or stretching rollers • Recuperator • Neutralising and washing unit • The functions of units (a), (c) and (d) and the conditions of mercerisation are the same as those for the chain mercerising machine. Only the stretching process (b) is different in this case.
  • 19.
    Advantages of theChainless Mercerisation Machine • The floor space required is less compared to chain mercerizing. • Lightweight fabric can be mercerised easily. (This is difficult in a chain mercerising machine.) • There is no difficulty in mercerising cloths of different widths. • No distortion of material takes place. So checked fabrics can be processed on this machine without distortion of the design. • Two or three superimposed fabric pieces
  • 20.
    Pad-less Chainless Mercerisation • Itis designed to mercerise fabric under tension • it does not require the use of the following units. –1) Impregnating mangles –2) Chain system (stenter)
  • 21.
  • 22.
    Important Process Sequence • ImpregnatingSection • Washing • Recuperator
  • 23.
    DYEING • The applicationof color to the whole body of a textile material with some degree of fastness. There are two ways of adding colour to a textile substrate – Dyeing Dyeing completely covers the textile with colour --Printing. adds colour to the fabric surface in discrete or distinct places.
  • 24.
    Materials Dyed • Fibers –Stock dyeing – Dope dyeing • Yarns – Skein dyeing – Package dyeing – Beam dyeing
  • 25.
    Materials Dyed • Fabrics –Piece dyeing – Printing • Roller –application, resist, discharge • Flat Screen • Rotary – Tie Dyeing • Garments – Garment dyeing
  • 26.
    Material used • Dyesand Pigments –The substances used to colour textiles can be classified as dyes or pigments, the differences between which are listed in the table below.
  • 27.