Plain, Twill and Sateen Weave

Presented By :
Presentation On
Plain, Twill and Sateen
Weave
Name ID
1) Muhammad Nafiz Reza. BTX-150100377
2) Farzana Ferdoush. BTX-150100378
3) Md. Sharif sarkar. BTX-150100371

Submmitted to,
Md. Nazmul Islam
Course co-ordinator
and
Lecturer (fabric)
Dept. of Textile engineering (NUB)

Contain :
 Plain weave, it’s Characteristics, Modification
and End use.
 Twill weave, it’s Characteristics, Modification
and End use.
 Satin/Sateen weave, it’s Characteristics,
Modification and End use.
 Colclusion

Plain Weave :
Plain weave (also called tabby
weave, linen weave or taffeta weave) is
the most basic of three fundamental
types of textile weaves. It is strong and
hard-wearing, used for fashion and
furnishing fabrics.
In plain weave, the warp and weft are
aligned so they form a simple criss-
cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses
the warp threads by going over one,
then under the next, and so on. The
next weft thread goes under the warp
threads that its neighbor went over,
and vice versa.

Characteristics of plain :
 It has the maximum number of binding
points.
The threads interlace on alternate order of
1 up and 1 down.
The thread density is limited.
Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are
limited.
It produces a relatively stronger fabric that
is obtained by any other simple combination
of threads, excepting that of “gauze”or “cross
weaving”.

Modification of plain fabric :
The chart below shows the derivatives/modifications of
plain weave :

WARP RIB WEAVE :
These are produced by extending the plain weave in
warp wary direction. Following figure shows the warp
rib weaves constructed on regular and irregular basis.

End use of Warp rib :
Finds extensive uses. It is used in
• Cambric.
• Muslin.
• Blanket.
• Canvas.
•Dhoti.
• Sharee.
• Shirting.
• Suiting , etc.

Weft RIB WEAVE :
The main characteristic of plain rib weave is that, they
produce rib or cords in the warp or weft direction. If the
cords or rib produce in the weft direction then it is called
weft rib. It classified into two side . Regular weft rib and
irregular weft rib.

End use of Weft rib :
Gross grain cloths, matelass fabrics,
repp cloth which is extensively
employed for window blinds in
railway carriages and other vehicles,
upholstering furniture, and cambric
picket handkerchief

Matt RIB WEAVE :
Matt also called Hopsack or basket weaves. This
structures result from extending the plain weave in
both directions.

End use of Matt rib :
Matt weave finds extensive uses for a
great variety of fabrics such as
• Dress materials,
•Shirtings,
•Sail cloth,
• Duck cloth etc.

Twill Weave :
•The secend basic weave pattern use
in manufacturing fabric is twill.
•They can be constructed in a variety
of ways.
•The main feature of these weaves
that distinguishes from other types is
the presence of pronounced diagonal
lines that run along the width of the
fabric

Characteristics of Twill :
 They form diagonal lines from one
selvedge to another.
 More ends per unit area and picks
per unit area than plain cloth.
 Less binding points than plain cloth
 Better cover than plain weave.
 More cloth thickness and mass per
unit area.

Derivatives of Twill Weave :
Diamond twill.
Combined twill.
Broken twill
Diaper design.
Diagonal design.
Elongated design.
Hearing bone twill.
Shaded twill.
Stepped twill.
Zigzag/waved/pointed
twill weave
Curved twill.

Broken twill :
These twills are constructed by
breaking the continuity of any
continuous twill weave. The
continuity can be broken in either a
regular or an irregular order. Broken
twills generally give a stripe like
effect
17

Elongated twill :
Elongated twill is constructed
by advancing the points of
intersection two or more
threads in one direction and
one thread in the other
direction. The angle of twill
line is determined by the step
number (the rate of
advancement from one
interlacing point to the next).
The angle of elongated twill is
either below 450 or
above 450.
18

Shaded twill:
By shaded twill we can
create shade effect on
fabric the shade effect is
created by the combination
some thick to thin twills or
thin to thick twills.
19

Diamond twill :
By reversing both the harness
and chain drafts of any regular
twill, anothe class of weaves
that is very largely used, and
known as diamond weaves from
the effects formed in the cloth,
will result. . It constructed on
the bans of zigzag twill principle.
It is obtain by combining a
horizontal and vertical zigzag
twill
20

Diaper Design twill :
This derivative of twill
weave is created on the
basis herring bone principle.
This design is constructed
by combining horizontal
and vertical hearing bone
twill.
21

End use of Twill:
Twill weave are extensively used in manufacturing
cloth for garments household cloth and industrial cloth.
●Generally diamond, diaper and zigzag twill are used
for making pillow, cover, screen, unpholstery, bed sheet,
towel etc.
●Continious twill are used for making fabric for shirting,
suiting and pant (denim, gaverdine).
●For making various type of ornamental cloth, other
derivatives of twill weave are used.
●Hearing bone twill are used in the cloth of suiting and
overcoats.
22

End use of Twill:
cover
Pant
towel

Satin & sateen Weave :
Satin is a warp faced rearranged twill and
sateen is a rearranged weft faced twill.
 Thus satin is the reverse side of sateen
weaves. These weaves form an important
category of weaves. They are used in
combination with other weaves,
particularly in case of ornamented fabrics.
 The striking feature of these weaves is
their bright appearance and smooth feel.

Characteristics of
Satin/sateen :
They are either warp or weft faced
weaves.
 Have no prominent weave structures.
 No continuous twill lines.
 Have poor seam strength due to thread
mobility.
 More thread density is possible in warp
and weft.
 More mass per unit area is possible.
Use of move numbers (intervals of
selection) is necessary to construct these
weaves.

Classification of satin/sateen :
Satin/sateen are classified by following :

Warp satin :
•If the prominence of warp floating
are seen on the fabric, this satin are
called warp satin.
•Warp satin is woven so that the
warp may be seen on the surface of
the fabric.
Regular warp satin :

Irregular warp satin:
There is no step value or move number to
construct the irregular satin.
Only 4 – end and 6- end satins are irregular.
 Straight drafting system is used to produce
this weave.

Weft satin :
In this construction, the weft yarn
lies on the surface of the fabric as
it passes regularly over and under
the warp yean.
In other words, If the prominence
of weft floating are seen on the
fabric surface, this sateen are
called weft sateen.
Regulars weft satin :

Irregulars weft satin (sateen):
There is no step value or move number to
construct the irregular sateen.
Only 4 and 6 end sateen are irregular.
Straight drafting system is used to produce
this weave.

End use of Satin/Sateen:
Satin weaves find a wide range of application such
as bed sheet, interlining cloth, ribbons, dress
materials (lustrous), children's dress materials etc.

Conclusion :
By this presentation learn about plain,
twill and satin/sateen weave their
classification and derivative. We also
learn about their End use. As a textile
engineer we should know about this.

http://textileschool4u.blogspot.com/
2013/11/modification-of-plain-weave-
warp-rib.html
http://www.textileschool.com/article
s/135/broken-twills.
Understanding textile for a
merchandiser by Engr. Shah
Amiluzzaman belal.
http://textilelearner.net//blogpost//s
atin/sateen
Reffarance list :

Thank You
everybody
for your
attention !!

Plain, Twill and Sateen Weave

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