textile finishing

By- Hemant yadav
textile processing
POWER POINT PRESENTATIO
TECHNOLOGY OF FINISHING

Finishing :-
Finishing is a process that
convert woven or knitting cloth
into usable material and more
specifically to any process
performed after dyeing the
yarn or fabric . To inprove tne
look performance hand feel of
the textile cloth.

1. To improve luster
2. Crease resistance
3. Water proofing
4. Soil resistance
5. moth proofing
6. flame proof and resistance
purpose of finishing :-

Damping :-
Mechanical operation of
calendaring depends on
pressure ,friction ,heat and
moisture . Hence before
calendaring ,fabric is passed
through a damping machine
where sufficient quality of
moisture is added to fabric

The damping machine are two
type :-
1) Brush damping machine
2) Spray damping machine

In brush damping machine ,A
revolving roller consist brush on
whole surface of it the roller at
high speed roller in contact with
water in a tank
the brush roller sprinkles water
on the fabric which passes over
the machine
1)Brush damping machine:-

Diagram of brush damping machine :-

The machine consist of cast iron
frame and rectangular wooden
water tank the brush is made of
fibres or copper spikes
The level of water is maintained
In machine fabric is move with
the guide roller at same speed

Spray damping machine:-
The machine is an improvement of
brush damping machine this is
similar to brush damping machine
But the brush is replace by closely
spaced nozzles . That nozzle are
attached to common feed pipe .
Which is supply water under
pressure from a pump.

Diagram of spray damping machine :-
A - fabric
B – nozzle
c – guide
roller
D – water
tank
E –cover

Feed pump and nozzle are
enclosed in a wooden box as
the machine is automatic it
stop immediately so no risk
of over damping. After
damping cloth is allowed to
stand for 24 hrs .so that
moisture is uniformly
absorbed

There are four type of
drying machine :-
1)cylinder drying
2)hot air drying
3)drum drying
4)stenter drying
Drying machine:-

It is also called drum or can drying
machine. It consist a series of hollow
cylinder are arranged horizontally in
two row or vertically in two columns .
Each cylinder is geared to adjust one
. the cylinder are placed step wise .
So that the fabric is travel is in
contact with hot surface steam under
the pressure is supplied to each
cylinder which are hollow.
Cylinder drying machine :-

The cylinder are usually made
up of copper sheet or
stainless sheet but cheaper
one are made of tinned iron
sheet the wall thickness of
cylinder must be such that
cylinder should with steam
&pressure.

Hot air drying machine:-
Passing a current of hot air a wet
cloth dried the faster than keeping
the cloth in an enveloped hotter
atmosphere .
This is the principle used in
festoon or hanging dryer .
The machine consist of a metal
casing suitable insulated .the wet
cloth is feted .

Diagram of hot air drying m/s:-

In this dryer use a drum of large diameter
.this revolving drum is covered by a
blanket supported on a perforated sheet
shell .
The wet cloth is fed into the casing and
lies on the surface of the blanket all
around the drum . Hot air is blow into the
casing and extracted form the inside of
the revolving drum after passing through
the cloth and blanket .
This machine suited for light weight cloth.
Drum drying machine:-

Stenter drying machine:-
Unlike in cylinder drying machine in
stenter drying machine the clothe width
can be control.
it consists at a pair at hold
travelling change which directly hold the
selvedge of fabric carrying it through the
machine under complete width uses in
automatic grip stander the grips automatic
grip only the required amount of selvedge .

Diagram of Stenter drying
machine :-

Normally hot air and hot gases are
uses on the drying medium is starter
for through adjustable nozzles.
Normal steam is used at heating
medium .Also liquid heating system
and electrical heaters can be used.
Hot air stanter can be in closed in an
insulated chamber to avoid the loss of
heat. There is a special over feeding
arrangement in pin stanter to give pre
shrunk treatment to fabric.

POWER POINT
PRESENTATION

CLASSIFICATION OF VARIOUS
TYPES OF FINISH
• CHEMICAL
• MECHANICAL

PERMANENT FINISHES
INCLUDES
• MECHANICAL =Milling of wool various
raising and shearing process controlled
• Shrinkages process
• DEPOSITION= Cellulose esters and ethers
• Synthetic resius both nternal and external
• CHEMICAL= Mecerizing silicoue treatment
• Hydrophoic effect

TEMPORARY FINISHES
• TEMPORARY FINISHES= Applied
cotton fabrics may be classified into
• (a)=Pure finish
• (b)=medium finish
• (C)=heavy finish
• PURE FINISH=Cloth is stretched to
define width glued a calendered lightly
qnd No other substance is added to the

MEDIUM FINISH
• Increases the wright of fabric from 5to10%
by using starches dextrins Depending on
the effect desired
• The object of the finish is to give body to
the cotton cloth cloth and to retain the
effect of calendering your and medium
finishes are finally given to the quality
fabrics

HEAVY FINISHES
Heavy finishes is to given poor
quality clothes by heavy calendering
to unpleasant feel into smooth feel

FINISHING CHEMICAL
• A no of Chemicals are used in textile
finishing chemical. These chemicals
are applied into or deposited in the
textile material and retained By
mechanical deposited and held by
physical force and chemical raction

STIFFNING AGENTS
• These includes thickener like corn
starch ,wheat starch,Patato starch,
dextrins, soluble starch,gums,
polyvinyl acetate carboxymethyl
cellulose etc

SOFTENER
• This includes glycerine, glucos, tallow,
coconut oil,palm oil, olive oil, non ionic
softener anionic softener cationic
softener, silicone emulsion etc

POWER POINT PRESENTATION

TOPIC
CHRSINK PROFFING OF COTTON
• PURPUSE
• PRINCIPLE
• MACHANISM
• VARIOUS METHOD OF CREPE EFFECT

SHRINKAGE OF COTTON
• Shrinkage is the construction in the
dimension of the fabric due to uses cotton
fabric suffer from two main disadvantage
of creasing and shrinking during washing

PURPOSE
• This is whyMast cotton clothing will shrink
during its first washing the best way to
avoid shrinkage ishqbaaz them by hand or
to use cold water and the delicate cycle of
your washing machine

MECHANISM
• Cotton has the property of swelling in
water and this effects shrinking on
waiting swelling take place and
rearrangement of internal force also
take place

PRINCIPAL
• Anyone who has worn cotton shirt or
overall known as that these garments
are sometimes liable to shrink when
they are washed many prudent house
wives provide an extra large hem or
casement curtains to allow for the
shortening after washing

CREPE EFFECT
Creping is a special effects produce mosty on
rayon fabric is treated in simple soap solutions to
for good crping effect the popular Construction of
fabric is plain warp and creap weft to get regular
cream effect embossing Callender is most care
Should be taken pressure and temperature will
embossing get good permanent cream effect it is
nessasry To use high temperature and high
pressure during embossing

• Contact
• TEXTURAL PROCESS
• 1-GLAZING
• 2-MOIREING3
• 3-BEETLING
• 4-RAISING MACHINE

1. . Glazing
A stuff polished or glazed surface can be
obtained by application of starch glue or
shellac followed by friction calendering.the
process makes a fabric. Resistant To dust
and spots and minimum the shrinkage. Vita
glaze is a typical trade mark.

• Morning
• Attractive lustre wavy designs knows as
moire can be produced by a process that is
one of minute surface embossing or
pressing of fabric with ridged roller .The best
moire result are obtained on fabrics that have
rib effects in filling .

Beetling
1. It is a very common finishing process for
linen .Yarns are flattened by the impact of
wooden mallets .The hammer actually close
the weave and give the cloth a firm
flattened & lusturovs appearance.Beetling
differed from calendering .The smoothness
obtained by calendering is the result of
horizontal pressing &are not permanent .In
Beetling the action which is performed is a
vertical impact that permanently flattens
the yarn.

Raising Machine
• Raising machine is a mechanical finishing
process carried out in cotton fabric like
sateen,drill,denims etc . Fibres are raised to
a certain level and Fibres are made to
protrude from the surface of fabric
uniformly.

RAISING MACHINE are of
two types
• 1. Teasle raising machine
• 2. Card wire machine

Teasle MACHINE
• Teasle are obtained from a particular type of
cultivated plant.They are fitted horizontally on a
large drum.The cloth passes in contact with
drum carrying the teasle in the same direction
but at a slightly lower speed than drum resulting
the raising of fibre.It is better to moist slightly
the fabric to ensure raising.In this process pile
is raised in one direction. The numbers of runs
depend on the nature of material and the effect
required.

Card wire raising machine• They are constructed on the basis of a Cylinder
around which small rollers covered with wire points
are mounted.
• 1. Single acting
• 2. Double acting
• In single acting machine pile is raised in only one
direction as wire covered rollers rotate in opposite
direction to that of cylinder.The double acting
machine has two set of rollers, pile and counter pile
roller which rotate at same speed in the same
direction, the points of card wire are set in opposite

CONTENT
• CALENDERING
• PRINCIPLE OF CALENDERING MACHINE
• CALENDERING MACHINE

CALENDERING
Calendering is an operation carried out
on a fabric to-
• Upgrade the fabric hand and to impart
a smooth silky touch to he fabric
• Compress the fabric and reduce its
thickness
• Reduce air permeabiity of the fabric
by changing its porosity
• Impart different degree of lusture to
the fabric

PRINCIPLE OF CALENDERING
MACHINE
Closing of threads under the influence of heat and pressure to improve
lusture and feel of fabric

CALENDERING MACHINE
An ordinary calender consists of a series of hard and soft bowls placed
in a definite order.
The soft roller may be of compressed cotton or paper. Calender may
consist 3,5,6,7 or 10 cylinders. The sequence of roller is that no two
hard rollers are in contact with each other. Pressure and heat applied in
calendering depends
on the finish required.

Calendering effect depends on moisture content of fabric, no of bowls
used, bowl arrangement, temp, pressure and speed.

TYPES OF CALENDERING
MACHINE
There are five types of calendering machine, which are following-
1. Snizzing Calender or Ordinary Calender
2. Friction Calender
3. Chasing Calender
4. Schreineing Calender
5. Embossing Calender

SWIZZING CALENDER
Simple running of cloth through all the nips is called snizzing. This
operation closes interstices of the cloth and gives it a smooth
appearance. Before calendering softening and filling agents are applied
to produce lusture. All bowls rotate at same speed.
Iron bowls are heated by passing steam inside the bowl. Hot calender
produces smoothness and lusturous surface

FRICTION CALENDER
In this top four bowls of a 7 bowl universal calender may be lifted up
disconnecting the contact between third and fourth bowl. This operation
produces high degree of lusture on one side of fabric i.e. the side which
touches the iron bowl and heavy closing of threads take place. Top iron
bowl is rotated at double speed of the fabric and of lower two bowls.

CHASING CALENDER
• Cotton fabric passes through the all nips of calender over the chasing
roller and into the cotton nip of calender again so that fabric passes
through the machine. Several times each layer of cloth lying over
another chasing gives to the cloth a linen type appearance and a
special soft handle or feel.

SCHREINERING CALENDER
This gives a silk like brilliance to cotton fabric. This is done mainly on
cotton linings, printed fabric. In case of mercerized cotton it gives almost
silk like appearance.
Schreiner calender has strong frames carrying two bowls top one
being of special fine steal which is engraved with required no of lines
and is heated by gas. The upper roller is in contact with the lower cotton
bowl when machine is running and is seperated while not in use. Top
bowl is in fixed position and lower one is moved up and down. When
fabric passes through the nip very high pressure is exerted.

EMBOSSING CALENDER
It is similar to schreiner calender but bowls are much bigger. The top
chilled iron roll has a design engraved on it and is heated. In this
damask effect can be produced on cotton fabric but the effect is
temporary. I t last longer on mercerised cotton. Also high degree of
lusture is produced on the surface of ordinary sniz calendered fabric.
The lusture is due to polishing effect of the roll engravement under the
influence of heat and pressure. The degree of lusture can be increased
by passing the fabric once or twice through friction calender before
passing through embossing calender.

Finishing
• Finishing is on of the essential processes of processing mill where all
bleached Dyed and printed material are subjected before they are
put on the market.
• Finishing give the following advantage.
1. Improved appearance lusture whiteness etc.
2. Improved feel which depend on the handle of the fabric and it’s
softness.
3. It improve the wearing quality.
4. It increases the weight of the fabric.

Type of finish
Finishing mainly falls in to three groups.
1. Temporary finish
2. Permanent finish
3. Semi- permanent finish

Temporary finish
A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash is known as
temporary finish.
if the finishing effect in the fabric disappear during subsequent washing
and usage then it is called temporary finish.
Eg > Mechanical: Calendering, Embossing etc.
Chemical : Starching, Softening (Except Reactive softeners)

Permanent finish
If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and remains
unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments,
then the finish it said to be a permanent finish.
Eg., Mechanical : Sunforsing mechanical milling of wool etc.,
Chemical : Resin finishing, Waterproof, Flame proof
finishing etc.,

Semi- permanent finish
A finishing on the fabric is said to be semi- permanent finish if it is
stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards.
. Eg., Mechanical : Schreiner calendering
Chemical : Buckram Finish.

This finish is mainly given to cellulosic fibres like Jute, hemp flax as floor etc
attacked by Bacteria.
From the cellulosic fibres, bed sheets, surgical cloth, underwear are made
and have to be protected from bacteria.
The organisms which attack the textile material are of two types :
The moulds or fungi
The bacteria.
The attack is increased, if the material contain starch, gums, flour etc.
ROT PROOFING

Requirements
1. It should not affect the fastness of the dyed fabric
2. It should not affect the physical properties of fabric..
3. The finish should be fast to Light, wash and laundering.

Chemicals
The chemicals used for rot proofing should
Be non- toxic to human being.
Should have no objectional order.
Should not discolor the material.
Should not affect the handle of the goods.
Compounds of antimony Bismuth cadmium Cobalt and copper have been
used as Outdoor fungicides these metals are applied to the fibre by
padding method.

Cuprammonium solution for applying on Canvas and tent cloth to make
them Rot proof and waterproof.
0.3% of metallic copper on the weight of the fibre must be present for
effective Rot proofing.
Process sequence
Pad- Dry- Cure
Concentration - 0.1%

Wash& wear finish
Wash& wear finish are also given using resin precondensate.
Process sequence-:
Wash – Dry – wear
Wash &wear finish ( Wash – Dry – Wear and no need for ironing ) impart
crease recovery only and suitable. This kind of finish is not suitable
where press in creases are required.

Durable press finishing
This type of finish is generally used in garments making.
DMDHEU is the resin which is used for this finishing.
These finish are achieve by similar technique as crease recovery finished.
PROCESS SEQUENCE
Pad – Dry – cut and make garments – Insert crease or plates by hot pressing
– Cure – Wash – Hot rinse – Cold rinse – Dry.
OR
Make garments – treat with resin – Hydro extract – Press and from creases,
Pleats with hot iron – Dry – Cure – Wash – Hot rinse – Cold risen – Dry.

Recipe for durable press finish
DMDHEU - 200 gpl
MgCl2.6H2O - 20 gpl
PE emulsion - 25 gpl
Acrylic emulsion - 30 gpl
Non - ionic wetting agent -3 gpl

Process of durable press finish
The cross – linking agent are first applied by padding. After padding the
fabric are made in to garments or some desired form. Then the curing
treatment is given to the fabric at a high temperature in the form of
garments.
This finish is called as Durable press finish.
DUEM or Ethyl carbonate may be also used for durable press finish.

textile finishing

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