Production/Manufacturing/Processing
Techniques
• Sericulture
▫ Cultivationof cocoons for the
filaments
▫ Best raw silk obtained from
Bombyx Mori (moth)
▫ Silkworms hatched up to 3
times a year
▫ 350 to 400 eggs in lifetime
▫ Subject to hereditary infection,
eggs destroyed which results in
fine silk production
▫ Begin to shape into cocoons
▫ Substance solidifies and
filament formed
• Filature Operations
▫ Raw silk unwound from
cocoons and collected into
skeins in Filature Factories
▫ Cocoons sorted based on
color, size, shape, and texture
▫ Hot and cold water so
filament can be unwound
▫ “Reeling” is unwinding
filament from the cocoon
3.
Production/Manufacturing/Processing
Techniques
• Manufacturing
▫ Reeledsilk formed into silk
yarn. “Throwing”
▫ Strands twisted and put
through rollers
▫ “Degumming”
Yarn washed with soap to
bring out natural shine
• Finishing
▫ Calendering and Cireing
Enhance luster
▫ Singeing
Smooth
▫ Steaming
Raising pile weaves
▫ Pressing and Lustering
Removes wrinkles
▫ Weighting
Weight lost during
demugging
Dyeing process
Crispness
4.
Characteristics
• It isversatile and very comfortable.
• It absorbs moisture.
• It is cool to wear in the summer yet warm to wear in
winter.
• It can be easily dyed.
• It retains its shape and is relatively smooth.
• It has a poor resistance to sunlight exposure.
• It is the strongest natural fiber and is lustrous
Advantages
• Natural ProteinStructure
▫ Hypoallergenic fabric
• All-climate fabric
▫ Warm and cozy in winter
▫ Cool in hot weather
▫ Natural temperature
regulating properties
▫ Outperforms other fabrics in
summer and winter
• Not bulky
• Highly absorbent
▫ Can absorb 30% its weight in
moisture
▫ Will let skin breathe
• Mixes well with animal and
vegetable fibers
• Smooth surface resists soil and
odors
• Wrinkle and tear resistant
• Dries quickly
• Strongest natural fiber
• Strong like steel yarn in
strength
• Takes color well
• Washes easily
• Good for
▫ Spinning
▫ Weaving
▫ Knitting
▫ Sewing
Fiber Drape Abilities
•Good Drape Properties
▫ Silk flexible enough
▫ Drapes well
▫ Tailors well
▫ Thin
9.
Fiber Care
• DryCleaned: make sure you tell them that it is made of
silk
• Hand wash:
1) Make sure you wash in cool water.
2) Use a small amount of soap or mild detergent to
wash the silk.
3) After washing it, rinse in cold water.
4) Hang it or lay it flat in a shaded area to dry.
5) If pressing is needed, use an all cotton iron board
cover, a low or moderate steam setting, and press on
the wrong side of the fabric while ironing.
10.
Quiz
• Silk isgood for all
EXCEPT…
▫ A. Spinning
▫ B. Layering
▫ C. Sewing
▫ D. Weaving
• ___ and ____ use silk
covers.
• Silk can’t be dyed easily.
▫ True or False?
• Silk is versatile and
absorbent.
▫ True of False?
• What is Degumming?
• What are 3/5 steps for
hand caring for silk?
11.
References
"sb117", Initials. (2010,July 11). Silk fiber | characteristics & uses of silk fibre & fabric in
textile. Retrieved from http://articles.textileclass.com/silk-fiber-characteristics-uses-
of-silk-fibre-fabric-in-textile/
Silk manufacturing process. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/silk-manufacturin-process.html
Silk. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.fabrics.net/silk.asp
Cherry, R. (2010). History of sericulture. Retrieved from
http://www.insects.org/ced1/history-of-sericulture.html
Editor's Notes
#2
Filature Operations
The raw silk is unwound from cocoons and are collected into skeins in the factories known as Filature. Here the cocoons are sorted based on their color, size, shape and texture. Then they are immersed in hot and cold water to soften the sericin so that filament could be unwound into one continuous thread. The whole of the seracin is not removed at this stage as it protects the delicate filament in further operations. 'Reeling' is the process of unwinding the filament from the cocoon. Three to ten filaments are together reeled for producing the desired diameter of raw silk thread.
#3 Finishing of Silk Fabrics
Many finishing processes are applied to different silk fabrics in order to improve their appearance, durability and feel. Calendering and Cireing is done to enhance luster, singeing is done to make them smooth, and steaming is done for raising pile weaves. Pressing and lustering removes wrinkles from the finished fabric. It is done with heated rollers and then soaking in dilute acid to bring luster.
One finish that is unique to silk fabric is 'Weighting'. The weight of silk is lost during the process of demugging. The manufacturer purchases silk by weight and to make up his loss, he does weighting of silk fabric with metallic substances such as stannic chloride, sodium phosphate, iron salt, logwood etc. Weighting is done during the dyeing process. Weighted silk is less compactly woven when compared to the unweighted silk and lesser silk is used in the fabric construction. Apart from lowering the cost of silk, weighting gives it crispness, luster and a firm feel.
#6 Silk mixes well with other animal and vegetable fibers.
#8 Drapes Property is Good: Silk fiber is flexible enough and if silk fiber is used to make Silk garment than the fabric drapes well and this is why it can be tailored well too.