PRESENTED BY UNDER GUIDANCE OF
PRAMODA G DR. BALASUBRAMANIAN A
1ST
SEMESTER, PROFESSOR
APPLIED GEOLOGY
Presentation on
OCEAN WAVES AND
TIDES
CONTENTS
• Introduction
• Waves
• Types of waves
• Tsunamis
• Tides
• Types of tides
• Importance of tides
• Conclusion
• Reference
INTRODUCTION
• A wave is any disturbance created when energy
moves through an object or substance.
• There are many types of waves caused by different
forces – some examples are earthquakes, ocean
waves, radio waves, visible light waves, and
atmospheric waves.
• Tide, alternate and regular rise and fall of sea level in
oceans and other large bodies of water.
• These changes are caused by the gravitational
attraction of the moon and, to a lesser extent, of the
sun on the earth.
•
A disturbance on the surface
of water, caused by the
rhythmic movement of
water particles due to the
action of winds.
•
The height of the wave
depends on the speed of the
wind.
•
A tsunami is a very long
wave caused by submarine
or coastal earthquakes,
landslide or volcanic
eruption.
WAVES
WAVE
CHARACTERISTICS
Parts of a Wave

Crest = high point

Trough = low point

Height = vertical distance
a from crest to trough

Wavelength = Horizontal
distance between crest to
crest or trough to trough
Wave period : time
for 2 crests to pass
fixed point (T) sec
Wave speed (C) : C =
wavelength / T (m/s)
Wave steepness : H /
wavelength
When H /
wavelength = 1/7 or
angle at crest 120 or
less = Breaker
SIZE OF WIND GENERATED WAVES
 Depends on 3 things:

Wind Speed

Wind Duration
(length of time wind
blows)

“Fetch” Extent of
open water across
which the wind can
blow
WATER MOTION IN WAVES
 Water travels in
vertical circular
orbits
 Wave moves,
particles don’t!
TYPES OF WAVES
Tsunami Waves
Caused by undersea quake
or volcano
Wavelength = ~150 mi.
Wave height = 6” – 1’
Can NOT perceive in boat
Speed > 500 mph
lows down to ~25 mph at
shore; water builds up to
~65+ ft
A tsunami also known as a seismic sea wave, is a series of
waves in a water body caused by the displacement of a large
volume of water, generally in an ocean or a large lake.
IMPORTANCE OF WAVES
 Shaping Coastlines

Erode cliffs

Grind rock into sand
 Ecology
 Returns O2
to water

Stir up food for filter
feeders
TIDES
• Are the alternate rise and fall in the level of sea
water, caused by the combined effects of the
gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and the
Sun and the rotation of the Earth.
• High Tide is when the level of sea water rises, and
moves up the shore.
• Low tide is when the level of sea water falls and
water recedes from the shore.
• Most coastal areas experience two high and two low
tides per day.
• Is caused when the pulls
of the moon and sun act
on the same line during
full moon and new
moon
• High tides are higher
than usual and low tides
lower
• Is caused when the moon is in
the first or third quarter,when
the moon,sun and earth form
a right angle
• The height of the tide
produced by the moon's
attraction is reduced by the
sun's attraction
• High tides are not as high as
usual and low tides not as low
SPRING TIDES AND NEAP TIDES
The Bay of Fundy at high tide The Bay of Fundy at low tide
HOW ARE TIDES USEFUL?

The rise in water during high tide
allows big ships to enter or leave
harbors safely.

During high tide, water rushes up
the mouths of rivers. This helps
ships to move in and out of river
ports.

The saline waters of the sea
freeze at a lower temperature
than river water does. In cold
countries, the sea water rushing
in during high tide prevents
harbors from freezing in winter.
CONCLUSION
• Wind waves are the most common type of wave in the
ocean and are found superimposed on currents, tides,
and tsunami.
• There are different types of waves they can classified
depending upon velocity of waves.
• The wind transfers some of its energy to the water,
through friction between the air molecules and the
water molecules. Stronger winds (like storm surges)
cause larger waves.
• Tides are play major role in the sea or ocean transport.
• The water in the ocean tides moves back and forth
and these mass redistributions cause periodic loading
of the ocean bottom
REFERENCE
• Oceans and Oceanography By John P. Rafferty –
2011
• Waves, Tides, and Shallow-water Processes by John
Wright, Angela Colling, Dave Park, Open University.
Oceanography Course Team 1999.
• www.googleimages.com
• www.Wikipedia.com
THANK
YOU!!!

waves and tides

  • 1.
    PRESENTED BY UNDERGUIDANCE OF PRAMODA G DR. BALASUBRAMANIAN A 1ST SEMESTER, PROFESSOR APPLIED GEOLOGY Presentation on OCEAN WAVES AND TIDES
  • 2.
    CONTENTS • Introduction • Waves •Types of waves • Tsunamis • Tides • Types of tides • Importance of tides • Conclusion • Reference
  • 3.
    INTRODUCTION • A waveis any disturbance created when energy moves through an object or substance. • There are many types of waves caused by different forces – some examples are earthquakes, ocean waves, radio waves, visible light waves, and atmospheric waves. • Tide, alternate and regular rise and fall of sea level in oceans and other large bodies of water. • These changes are caused by the gravitational attraction of the moon and, to a lesser extent, of the sun on the earth.
  • 4.
    • A disturbance onthe surface of water, caused by the rhythmic movement of water particles due to the action of winds. • The height of the wave depends on the speed of the wind. • A tsunami is a very long wave caused by submarine or coastal earthquakes, landslide or volcanic eruption. WAVES
  • 5.
    WAVE CHARACTERISTICS Parts of aWave  Crest = high point  Trough = low point  Height = vertical distance a from crest to trough  Wavelength = Horizontal distance between crest to crest or trough to trough
  • 6.
    Wave period :time for 2 crests to pass fixed point (T) sec Wave speed (C) : C = wavelength / T (m/s) Wave steepness : H / wavelength When H / wavelength = 1/7 or angle at crest 120 or less = Breaker
  • 7.
    SIZE OF WINDGENERATED WAVES  Depends on 3 things:  Wind Speed  Wind Duration (length of time wind blows)  “Fetch” Extent of open water across which the wind can blow
  • 8.
    WATER MOTION INWAVES  Water travels in vertical circular orbits  Wave moves, particles don’t!
  • 9.
  • 10.
    Tsunami Waves Caused byundersea quake or volcano Wavelength = ~150 mi. Wave height = 6” – 1’ Can NOT perceive in boat Speed > 500 mph lows down to ~25 mph at shore; water builds up to ~65+ ft A tsunami also known as a seismic sea wave, is a series of waves in a water body caused by the displacement of a large volume of water, generally in an ocean or a large lake.
  • 12.
    IMPORTANCE OF WAVES Shaping Coastlines  Erode cliffs  Grind rock into sand  Ecology  Returns O2 to water  Stir up food for filter feeders
  • 13.
  • 14.
    • Are thealternate rise and fall in the level of sea water, caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and the Sun and the rotation of the Earth.
  • 15.
    • High Tideis when the level of sea water rises, and moves up the shore. • Low tide is when the level of sea water falls and water recedes from the shore. • Most coastal areas experience two high and two low tides per day.
  • 17.
    • Is causedwhen the pulls of the moon and sun act on the same line during full moon and new moon • High tides are higher than usual and low tides lower
  • 18.
    • Is causedwhen the moon is in the first or third quarter,when the moon,sun and earth form a right angle • The height of the tide produced by the moon's attraction is reduced by the sun's attraction • High tides are not as high as usual and low tides not as low
  • 20.
    SPRING TIDES ANDNEAP TIDES The Bay of Fundy at high tide The Bay of Fundy at low tide
  • 21.
    HOW ARE TIDESUSEFUL?  The rise in water during high tide allows big ships to enter or leave harbors safely.  During high tide, water rushes up the mouths of rivers. This helps ships to move in and out of river ports.  The saline waters of the sea freeze at a lower temperature than river water does. In cold countries, the sea water rushing in during high tide prevents harbors from freezing in winter.
  • 22.
    CONCLUSION • Wind wavesare the most common type of wave in the ocean and are found superimposed on currents, tides, and tsunami. • There are different types of waves they can classified depending upon velocity of waves. • The wind transfers some of its energy to the water, through friction between the air molecules and the water molecules. Stronger winds (like storm surges) cause larger waves. • Tides are play major role in the sea or ocean transport. • The water in the ocean tides moves back and forth and these mass redistributions cause periodic loading of the ocean bottom
  • 23.
    REFERENCE • Oceans andOceanography By John P. Rafferty – 2011 • Waves, Tides, and Shallow-water Processes by John Wright, Angela Colling, Dave Park, Open University. Oceanography Course Team 1999. • www.googleimages.com • www.Wikipedia.com
  • 24.