Random
Processes
and
Ocean
Waves
Formula
Sheet
!!
Wave number 𝑘 = !
!
!!!
Deep water wave velocity 𝑉! = !!
!!"!
Deep water wave period 𝑇! = !
!!"
Deep water wavelength 𝐿! = !
!!
Shallow water wave velocity 𝑉! = 𝑔ℎ
Horizontal water particle velocity
in a wave 𝑢 = 𝑘ζ! 𝑉! e!!" cos𝑘(𝑥 − 𝑉! 𝑡)
Vertical water particle velocity
in a wave 𝑤 = 𝑘ζ! 𝑉! e!!" sin𝑘(𝑥 − 𝑉! 𝑡)
Pressure under a wave at a point
z beneath the still waterline P = 𝜌𝑔𝑧 + 𝜌𝑔ζ! 𝑒 !!" cos 𝑘(𝑥 − 𝑉! 𝑡)
Energy per unit area of wave surface 𝐸 = 1 2 𝜌𝑔ζ!!
!!!
Encounter frequency 𝜔! = 𝜔! 1 − !
𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜇
!! !!
Maximum wave slope α! = ! ζ! = !!
!
Effective maximum wave slope 𝛼′! = α! sinµμ
General expression for a Rayleigh
!! ! !!
distribution 𝑝 𝑥! = ! !! 𝑒 !!!
RMS of double amplitude of motion
!! ! ×! !!
(Rayleigh distribution) 𝑥=
! !!
Average wave height (or motion) 2.50×𝐶𝐹× 𝑚!
Average of 1/3rd highest waves
(or motion) (double amplitude) 4.00×𝐶𝐹× 𝑚!
Average of 1/10th highest waves
(or motion) (double amplitude) 5.09×𝐶𝐹× 𝑚!
Correction factor 𝐶𝐹 = 1 − 𝜀 !
!! !! !!!!
𝜀 ! 𝜀! = !! !!
∞ !
nth moment of area under a spectrum 𝑚! = !
𝜔! 𝑆ζ 𝜔! 𝑑 𝜔!
!!
Average zero crossing wave period 𝑇! = 2𝜋 !!
!!
Average crest to crest wave period 𝑇! = 2𝜋 !!
!!
Average apparent wavelength 𝐿! = 2𝜋𝑔 !!