FORMULATIONS
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April 2016
2
Contents
Deodorant: dry-touch formulation with diatomaceous earth 3
Toothpaste: perlite-based, gentle abrasive formulation 4
Exfoliating body wash: eco-friendly, perlite-based formulation 5
Soft cleansing face scrub: eco-friendly, perlite-based formulation 6
Anti-dandruff shampoo: perlite-based, dandruff removal formulation 7
Eye-shadow: magnesium silicate-based formulation for luminous effect 8
Mineral blush: magnesium silicate-based satin finish formulation 9
Mineral foundation: magnesium silicate-based high coverage formulation 10
Reptile Rough to Silky Soft face pack 11
Soothing Berry clay mask 12
Charcoal cleansing mask 13
Candy floss face mask 14
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Deodorant: dry-touch formulation with diatomaceous earth
Supplier: Imerys
End-consumer benefits: Dry feeling, non-irritant
Applications: Toiletries - deodorants and antiperspirants
Description: This formulation containing ImerCare™ 400D diatomaceous earth offers high
absorbency in roll-on deodorants and antiperspirants, giving a pleasant, dry touch.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Mix glycerin and propylene glycol
in warm water (phase A).
• Disperse Carbopol® Ultrez 20 until
homogenized (5 min – 300 rpm).
• Heat phase A (70-75°C).
• Heat phase B (70-75°C).
• Add phase B to phase A while
stirring (350 rpm).
• Homogenize batch for 2-4 min (350 rpm).
• Incorporate ImerCare™ 400 D (2-3 min at 400 rpm).
• Add triethanolamine to activate Carpobol® (2-3 min at 900 rpm).
• Cool to 30-35°C and add phase E.
• Check that final pH is 6.5-7.0 due to Carbopol and adjust if necessary with phase F.
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Toothpaste: perlite-based, gentle abrasive formulation
Supplier: Imerys
End-consumer benefits: Cleans the surface of the teeth without scratching, minimizing
damage to teeth and gums.
Applications: Toiletries - toothpaste
Description: Due to its fine, platy, perlite particles, ImerCare™ PerlWhite 19 improves
polishing with a gentle abrasive effect that doesn’t damage teeth. This performance can be
achieved with just 1.5 to 2% PerlWhite 19 in the formulation, offering formulators a cost-
effective solution. ImerCare™ PerlWhite 19 is inert and pH neutral so it does not have an
effect on the pH of the toothpaste system.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Hydrate Carbopol® in warm water
and mix slowly for approximately 15
minutes (phase A).
• Pre-wet xanthan gum with glycerin
and then hydrate with sorbitol. Mix
well for 15 minutes to thicken and
form a homogeneous dispersion (phase B).
• Combine phases A and B and mix for 10 minutes until smooth and homogeneous.
• Dissolve sodium monofluorophosphate and sodium saccharin in water (phase C).
• Add phase C to the mixture. Mix well for 10 minutes under vacuum to remove entrapped air.
• Add calcium carbonate and ImerCareTM PerlWhite 19, mixing slowly until fully incorporated
into the gel base and then mix more rapidly to disperse throughout.
• Add the sodium lauryl sulfate and any colour and flavouring into the beaker, mixing at low
speed until homogeneous.
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Exfoliating body wash: eco-friendly, perlite-based formulation
Supplier: Imerys
End-consumer benefits: Exfoliation, smoothness, non-irritant
Applications: Skin care - shower gels, exfoliants
Description: This exfoliating body wash containing ImerCare™ 400P-Scrub perlite stimulates
cell renewal by eliminating dead skin cells. Used regularly, it results in smoother, glowing
skin.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Hydrate Carbopol® in water (phase A).
• Add phase B to phase A under low
shear mixing (50 rpm).
• Neutralize with sodium hydroxide drop
by drop.
• Mix in phase D and then E until
homogenous.
• Use citric acid to adjust the pH value of
the batch to 5.5-6.0.
• Add colorants and preservatives.
• Incorporate ImerCareTM 400P-Scrub at the end of the mixing process, avoiding high
shear.
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Soft cleansing face scrub: eco-friendly, perlite-based formulation
Supplier: Imerys
End-consumer benefits: Exfoliation, skin purifying, non-irritant
Applications: Skin care - exfoliants
Description: This soft cleansing cream containing ImerCare™ 190P-Scrub perlite stimulates
cell renewal by eliminating dead skin cells. Used regularly, it results in smoother, glowing
skin.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Hydrate guar hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride in water.
• Add citric acid while stirring until the
mixture becomes clear (350 rpm).
• Mix phase B until homogenized (350 rpm).
• Mix phase B to phase A until uniform.
• Add phase C (300 rpm).
• Pre-mix Extra 5/0 DEC in dimethicone.
• Add phase D to the mixture (500 rpm).
• Incorporate ImerCareTM 190P-Scrub (200 rpm).
• Add phase F.
• Use citric acid to adjust the pH to 5.5-6
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Anti-dandruff shampoo: perlite-based, dandruff removal formulation
Supplier: Imerys
End-consumer benefits: Exfoliation, cleaner, more comfortable scalp
Applications: Hair care: anti-dandruff shampoo
Description: ImerCare™ 90P-Scrub has been specifically developed with a soft exfoliation
mechanism to remove dandruff, leaving the scalp feeling cleaner and more comfortable.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Mix phase B into phase A
at room temperature until
dispersed.
• Mix in phase C.
• Homogenize phase D and
add to the mixture.
• Mix in the other
ingredients one after
another and mix until
homogeneous.
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Eye-shadow: magnesium silicate-based formulation for luminous effect
Supplier: Imerys
End-consumer benefits: Shine / radiance, silky feel
Applications: Decorative cosmetics – eye shadow
Description: ImerCare™ SheerSilk is an excellent base for highly pigmented, high- brilliance
eyeshadows. ImerCare™ SheerSilk imparts good color intensity and a soft touch.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Mix all the powders (phase A)
together with ImerCare™
SheerSilk in a low shear
blender.
• Heat the four binders at 50°C
until homogeneous (phase B).
• Pulverize the binders onto the
powder mix and disperse in a low shear blender.
• Press at 400 psi into dish.
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Mineral blush: magnesium silicate-based satin finish formulation
Supplier: Imerys
End-consumer benefits: Transparency, light feeling, silky feel
Applications: Decorative cosmetics - blush
Description: ImerCare™ SheerSilk imparts a natural, satin finish to blushes.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Pre-grind pigment.
• Mix ImerCareTM SheerSilk and pigment
(phase A) in a low shear blender.
• Pulverize the binder (phase B) onto the
powder mix and disperse in a low shear
blender until fully homogeneous.
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Mineral foundation: magnesium silicate-based high coverage formulation
Supplier: Imerys
End-consumer benefits: High coverage, silky feel, smooth satin finish, even skin look
Applications: Decorative cosmetics - foundation
Description: ImerCare™ Velluto imparts good coverage and a smooth satin finish to skin
foundations.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Pre-grind pigments.
• Mix ImerCare™ Velluto and pigments
(phase A) in a low shear blender.
• Pulverize the binder (phase B) onto
the powder mix and disperse in a low
shear blender until fully
homogeneous.
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Reptile Rough to Silky Soft face pack
Supplier: Imerys – developed by Aston UK distributor (Formula n°: ASTON LR137/05)
End-consumer benefits: Gentle skin exfoliation for a brighter, smoother look
Applications: Skin care - face mask scrub
Description: This face mask contains ImerCareTM 190P-Scrub a natural mineral scrub bead
made from perlite, with a D90 particle size of 190 microns and ImerCareTM 20P, with an
average particle size of 20 microns. The perlite spheres are milled to produce broken
spheres that demonstrate great transparency on the skin. The non-lamellar structure of
these particles leads to light scattering conferring a matt effect.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Combine A1s then add A2 and
homogenize at high shear (e.g. 8,000
rpm on a Silverson) for 10 minutes.
• Adjust pH to around pH 6.5 using A3.
• Add Bs and mix until homogeneous
(do not use high shear).
• Add C and paddle stir until a
homogeneous paste has formed.
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Soothing Berry clay mask
Supplier: Imerys – developed by Aston UK distributor (Formula n°: ASTON LR137/06)
End-consumer benefits: Soothing clay mask, containing extracts from a mixture of
Australian berries.
Applications: Skin care - face mask
Description: This clay mask contains ImerCareTM 04K natural kaolin, a hydrated aluminum
silicate, with an average particle size of 0.4 microns. Careful processing results in soft, fine
particles, suitable for use in a variety of personal care products. Kaolin can be used for
opacifying formulations and modifying rheology.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Combine A1s then add A2 and
homogenize at high shear (e.g. 8,000
rpm on a Silverson) for 10 minutes.
• Adjust pH to around pH 6.5 using A3.
• Add B and mix until homogeneous.
• Add C and paddle stir until a
homogeneous paste has formed.
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Charcoal cleansing mask
Supplier: Imerys – developed by Aston UK distributor (Formula n°: ASTON LR137/07)
End-consumer benefits: Sebum and impurities absorption, skin purifying, matt effect and
soft feel
Applications: Skin care - face mask
Description: This cleansing mask contains ImerCareTM 400D naturally occurring
diatomaceous earth with an average particle size of 11 microns and oil absorption capacity
of 220g/100g. Diatomaceous earth has a micro-porous structure with high oil and water
absorption capacity. It has a great mattifying effect on the skin and soft feel. Ideal for male
grooming.
Typical formulation ingredients
Procedure
• Combine A1s then add A2 and
homogenize at high shear (e.g. 8,000
rpm on a Silverson) for 10 minutes.
• Adjust pH to around pH 6.5 using A3.
• Add B and mix until homogeneous.
• Add Cs in number order and paddle
stir until a homogeneous paste has
formed.
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Candy floss mask
Supplier: Imerys
End-consumer benefits: Exfoliation, sebum and impurities absorption, skin purification and
soft feel
Applications: Skin care - face mask
Description: This cleansing mask contains ImerCareTM 04K (sebum and impurities
absorption), ImerCareTM 266D (improve drying time) and ImerCareTM 190P (gentle
exfoliating effect)
Phase
INCI Commercial name %
A
Aqua - Qsp 100
CI 73360 Rouge Covarine (Sensient) 0.08
B
Kaolin ImerCare™ 04K (Imerys) 25
Diatomaceous earth ImerCare™ 266D (Imerys) 5
C
Glycerin Glycerin (Roth) 4
Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke &
Phenoxyethanol & ethylhexylglycerine 0.5
Mayr)
Perfume - 0.06
D Solution of citric acid -20%
Citric acid, water 0.8
(Roth)
E ImerCare™ 190P Scrub
Perlite 4
(Imerys)
F Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Aculyn 88
4
Crosspolymer (Dow Personal Care)
Triethanolamin TEA (Roth) 0.6
Procedure
• Mix dye and water (phase A).
• Disperse the kaolin and then the diatomaceous earth in phase A.
• Add glycerin and then the other ingredients one after another (C).
• Acid citric (D) is added due to the diatomaceous earth which increases
the Ph.
• Caution should be taken with the perlite microspheres (E) as they tend
to break up above 700 rpm.
• Neutralise Aculyn 88 with TEA to provide the foamy texture.
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