63

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

A sharp ax is a safe ax; it is more likely to cut into

and not scoop or glance off the wood. Proper
filing techniques allow you to shape and sharpen an
As discussed in “The Mechanics of Chopping” sec-
tion in chapter 11, an ax should strike a log at a
45-degree angle to penetrate the log safely. A sharp,
ax to maximize efficiency and safety. properly profiled ax can strike at a shallower angle
and still penetrate the wood because of the gradual
Many people who sharpen an ax focus on the cut- transition between the cutting edge and the sides of
ting edge with the intent of bringing the ax back to the ax. If there is no gradual transition because the
the condition it was in when it cut well. However, to sides of the ax are too thick in relation to the cutting
sharpen an ax properly, you must pay attention to edge, the ax requires a steeper angle to penetrate the
more than just the edge; the area behind the cutting wood. An angle steeper than 45 degrees leads to poor
edge is just as, if not more, important. penetration and inefficient chopping.

If you only sharpen the cutting edge as it wears An ax head must have a sharp cutting edge to effi-
down, you eventually lose the smooth transition you ciently displace wood. The typical Forest Service dou-
developed while profiling the ax head. As you file the ble-bit ax has a bevel sharpened to about 18 degrees
cutting edge down, its relationship to the sides of the for the clear wood (knot free) cutting side (known as
ax changes; the sides get thicker and the ax loses the keen edge) and up to 28 degrees for the limbing/
some of its efficiency for penetrating wood. Sharp- cutting through knots side (known as the stunt edge).
ening an ax properly involves maintaining the entire In comparison, a racing ax could have a bevel of 14
profile of the ax head, not just the cutting edge. degrees. Using an ax gauge is the easiest way to de-
termine if you have the correct angle (figure 8–1).

Figure 8–1—National
Technology and Development
Program sharpening gauges,
used for measuring the correct
angle of an ax head.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

64
The microbevel and the bevel form the cutting edge While the angle of the cutting edge is important, you
of an ax (figure 8–2). The microbevel is an important must remember how the edge blends into the grind—
part of the bevel; it provides strength to help prevent the area right behind the microbevel and bevel.
the cutting edge from chipping or breaking. Ideally,
the bevel should be about 18 degrees while the Many people use powertools to shape or sharpen their
micro­bevel should be about 25 degrees (figure 8–3). ax heads. Motorized sanders or sharpeners can be
Keeping the microbevel to the desired degree can be useful for removing metal to develop an ax’s profile
challenging. This small, fine edge can be difficult to and to shape the ax head, but pay close attention so
develop properly and can easily change through hon- you do not overheat the ax head and ruin the temper
ing or stropping. Novice axmen may not know about or remove too much metal and change the profile. If
the need for the micro­bevel.

Microbevel

{ Bevel Figure 8–2—The microbevel in

relation to the bevel. The inset
shows a closeup view of the
microbevel and bevel.

17 to 21
degrees 25 to 32
degrees

Figure 8–3—The correct

angles for a bevel and
microbevel.

Bevel Microbevel

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 65
you use a powertool, use it only to shape the ax head cutting edge and it heats up faster than the body of
and not to sharpen the cutting edge. the ax. Competition choppers frequently use
powertools to shape and sharpen their axes, but this
When shaping an ax head, use a felt pen or marker to skill takes years of practice to develop. You should
indicate the areas where you want to remove metal perform the final sharpening of the cutting edge by
(figures 8–4 and 8–5). Work slowly and check your hand and should hone the microbevel using a fine di-
progress often. Never allow the powertool to contact amond stone or whetstone (figure 8–7).
the cutting edge and frequently check for heat build-
up by touching the work surface with your bare hand.
Mark the cutting edge with a felt pen and do not sand
past this line (figure 8–6). The blade is thin at the

Figure 8–4—Marking the head of an

ax with a felt pen to indicate where
and where not to remove metal.

Figure 8–5—Marking an ax head to

indicate high points to file and low
points to avoid filing.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

66

Figure 8–6—A cutting edge

marked with a black felt pen.
—This photo was digitally altered.
Marked
line

Figure 8–7—Using a whetstone to

hone the microbevel.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 67
Ax Head Shapes
An ax must do three things to cut efficiently:
•• Sever wood fibers
•• Displace wood chips
•• Release from the wood

These three things depend on the interaction be-

tween the ax head cutting edge, profile, and type of
grind. The cutting edge severs wood fibers while the
profile and grind separate the wood chip and release
the head from the wood. Only after an ax head dis-
lodges and removes a wood chip can it sever new
wood fibers to make the cut deeper. A sharp cutting
edge that does not penetrate into the wood because
the ax profile is too thick has little practical value.
Likewise, a sharp ax with a cutting edge that is too
thin penetrates deeply into the wood but will not eas-
ily release. An ax head properly shaped to displace
chips and release from the wood is worthless if the
cutting edge is not sharp enough to sever fibers (fig-
ure 8–8). All parts of the ax must work together.

Too thin Correct Too thick

Figure 8–8—A cutting edge that is too thin (left), (Will penetrate into the (Will not penetrate the wood
a properly sharpened cutting edge (middle), wood but will not remove efficiently and may glance off the
and a cutting edge that is too thick (right).
chips efficiently) wood, creating a safety hazard)

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

68
Ax Head Profiles
The profile (shape) of an ax head determines if it pen- In comparison, a flat-profiled ax is not only flat
etrates deeply or shallowly into the wood. The basic across the face of the blade, but also across its
shape for a Forest Service work ax is the convex pro- length. The flat-profiled ax (figure 8–10) has a steep
file (figure 8–9) with a chisel grind. The convex profile edge and straight sides that enable the ax to pen-
enables penetration, splitting force, and ease of re- etrate deeper into wood, but it lacks splitting power,
lease (the chisel grind discussed in the “Ax Head making it more difficult to move chips or release the
Grinds” section later in this chapter provides strength ax from the wood.
for the cutting edge).

{
{
{

Space Space Figure 8–9—A convex ax head with

Rise a straightedge lying across the side
to show the rise and the spaces to
either side of the rise that create
the convex profile.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 69

The broadax or broad hatchet profile (figure 8–11) is

like a chisel—sharpened only on one side. This chisel
profile is for shaping wood rather than for chopping
it. Do not confuse a broadax chisel profile with a
chisel grind, which many chopping axes have.

Figure 8–10—A flat-profiled ax

shows relatively little relief when a
straightedge lies across the face or
along the length of the blade.

Figure 8–11—The front, chisel-shaped,

sharpened edge (left) and back, flat,
unsharpened edge (right) of an ax head
with a broadax profile.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

70
The type of chopping and the type of wood both play The ax profile also plays a role in edge strength. Con-
a role in determining which ax head profile works vex profiles tend to be thicker and more durable. Flat
best for a particular job. The convex ax head profile profiles tend to have sharper angles that provide bet-
works best for general chopping purposes. The ter depth penetration. The sharper angles could make
sharpened edge severs wood fibers and, as the cut- the blade more susceptible to bending or breaking,
ting edge severs the fibers, the main body of the ax especially when striking a hard knot or cutting into
enters the wood. With a convex-shaped head, the frozen wood. Flat profiles penetrate much better than
sides of the ax provide a wedge to split the wood convex profiles. While the flat sides provide better
(figure 8–12). The actual cutting edge only starts the penetration, they can also provide excessive friction,
cut; the sides of the ax dislodge the wood chips. making the ax more difficult to remove from the wood.

Convex sides
{ spread the
split past the
cutting edge

End of
cutting edge
Figure 8–12—A convex head in a round of
wood. Note that the sides of the ax head
spread the round apart well beyond the
cutting edge.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 71
Regardless of the profile, all ax heads can get stuck in
wood. The types of hollows (figure 8–13), bevels, and
relief of the ax head can reduce the friction that binds it
to the wood. Cutting or filing relief (figure 8–14) into the
sides of an ax head reduces binding or sticking and
allows the ax to more easily release from the wood.

Figure 8–13—The straightedge

placed on the side of this Snedden

{
ax illustrates the hollow behind the
cutting edge.
Hollow

Relief

Figure 8–14—A Tuatahi competition

ax showing the additional relief filed
into the sides.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

72
Ax Head Grinds
Customizing the cutting edge of an ax with a specific works best for the type of chopping you do. The cut-
grind can provide more bite, which allows you to re- ting edge of a chisel grind is uniform from toe to heel.
move bigger chips from a log. The grinds discussed It is probably the most common and popular grind for
in this manual refer to the microbevel and bevel of basic ax use in America. Chisel grinds, in conjunction
a cutting edge and how these blend into the ax pro- with a convex profile, are applicable for most types of
file. Adding a microbevel to the ax’s grind provides wood (or most types of chopping).
strength and durability.
A banana grind is an asymmetrical version of the
Grinds can be very specific to the types of wood you chisel grind (figure 8–15). The cutting edge of a ba-
cut and are more important to competition choppers nana grind is wider in the center and narrower at the
than to typical workers in the woods. The grind blends toe and heel. The edge can be either full or half ba-
into the ax profile, providing a smooth transition from nana. A half-banana edge is only slightly wider in the
the cutting edge through the cheeks. The convex ax center than at the toe and heel. A full-banana edge
profile inherently provides this type of relief. fans up the cheek closer to the eye of the ax. It is
considerably wider than a half-banana edge. Banana
Once you profile the general shape of the ax head, grinds are useful for chopping softwoods and some
you need to decide what type of cutting edge grind hardwoods, but not for very hard or frozen wood.

Banana Chisel
grind grind

Figure 8–15—A double-bit ax with

a banana grind on one cutting edge
and a chisel grind on the other.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 73
A flat grind is a symmetrical wedge from the edge of
the ax to about 3½ to 4 inches back from the edge.
Usually found on a flat-profiled ax (figure 8–16), flat
grinds are the least desirable for general forestry use.
Though it provides excellent depth penetration, an ax
with a flat grind and flat profile will stick in the wood
and not easily release. The cutting edges (bevel and
microbevel) of the ax are also more likely to roll, chip,
or break.

The chisel and banana grinds are the most common

types of grinds. There are other types of ax grinds, de-
pending on the region and country. This manual focus-
es on practical forest applications. You can search for
other ax grinds on the internet. The Tuatahi website
<[Link] provides helpful infor-
mation about other types of grinds.

Flat
grind

Figure 8–16—A flat grind on a flat-

profiled ax.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

74
Is Your Ax Head Worth Shaping and
Sharpening? produces an inferior edge. The softer metal does not
It may not be worth your time or energy to shape and hold an edge and does not stand up to hard use.
sharpen an ax head that has too much damage (figure
8–17). Begin by visually examining the ax head. Obvi- An over-filed head also may not be worth sharpening.
ous defects can include a severely chipped or broken Typically, the toe (figure 8–18), and sometimes the
edge. If the cutting edge of the ax has minor or shal- heel, of the cutting edge is filed so far back that you
low chips, you may be able to file them out. A major need to reprofile the entire edge to get it back into
chip in the edge may require you to file past the hard- proper shape. Extensive filing sometimes brings the
tempered cutting edge and into the softer metal of the cutting edge out of the tempered zone and into the
cheeks. Filing a cutting edge past the temper line softer metal of the cheeks.

Figure 8–17—This ax had a

manufacturing defect; it cannot be
restored.

Rounded
toe

Figure 8–18—An ax head with a

rounded toe.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 75
Visual inspection of single-bit ax heads may reveal a Examine the eye of the ax. It should be symmetrical.
severely damaged or mushroomed poll (figure 8–19). The head may not fit the handle securely if the sides
Driving metal wedges with the nontempered poll often of the eye bulge or are otherwise deformed. This
causes this type of damage. You may be able to grind could indicate that the ax has been misused. With
the poll back into shape, but could lose a lot of metal use, the bulge could continue to change shape and
and weight from the back of the ax. The poll helps pro- may break. An ax with a mushroomed poll often also
vide balance and a driving force while chopping. has a bulging eye (figure 8–20).

Figure 8–19—An ax head with a

mushroomed poll.

Mushroomed
poll

Bulging eye

Figure 8–20—An ax head with a

mushroomed poll and bulging eye.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

76
Cracks or splits in the metal of the ax head are less The “Restoring a Vintage Ax Head” section in chap-
obvious but serious defects to look for. These defects ter 13 contains more information about defects in an
can be hairline cracks that are difficult to see, espe- ax head.
cially if the head is dirty. Clean the ax head thor-
oughly and examine closely for any cracks or splits, If a visual inspection confirms that an ax head is in
particularly in and around the eye. A cracked ax head good shape and worth the time and effort to sharpen,
(figure 8–21) could potentially break apart during use. the next step is to examine the ax sides and cutting
You may be able to weld minor cracks, but cracks edge with your fingers (figure 8–22). Running your
that extend into the cheeks of the ax can cause seri- fingers across the ax sides and cutting edge reveals
ous problems. Discard any ax head with these types variations on both sides of the ax and helps you de-
of cracks. velop a filing plan.

Crack

Figure 8–21—A crack in an ax head.

When you see a mushroomed poll,
check carefully around the eye for
cracks.

Figure 8–22—Feeling the sides and

cutting edge of an ax head can reveal
high and low spots and can help you
develop a filing plan.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 77
Shaping an Ax Head
The publication “Modified Belt Sander Sharpens Ax-
es and Pulaskis” (0823–2327P–MTDC) <[Link]
[Link]/t-d/php/library_card.php?p_num=0823%20
2327P> (figure 8–23) provides instructions for making
a sharpening jig for a 1-inch belt sander to assist with
shaping an ax head. The publication explains how
to mark an ax head so that the sharpening jig has a
fixed point from which to swing. If you prefer not to
put a small indentation in the ax head to serve as a
pivot point, you can use rare earth magnets. These
powerful magnets are available with a center hole
and remain affixed to the ax head during use.

Before shaping, properly prepare the ax head by

cleaning it and ensuring that it is free of dirt, oils, and
rust. To begin shaping, properly secure the ax to a
workbench so that it is stable and does not shift or
move. Once you secure the ax, use a hand file or elec-
tric sander (figure 8–24) to begin removing metal from
the ax head to achieve the desired profile and grind.

Figure 8–23—The publication “Modified

Belt Sander Sharpens Axes and Pulaskis.”

Figure 8–24—Using an electric

sander to remove metal from behind
the cutting edge. A rare earth magnet
provides an excellent pivot point for
the sanding jig (inset).

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

78
When using an electric sander, frequently lift the Although this manual discusses the use of
sander off the ax head to check for heat buildup and powertools to profile and sharpen an ax head, it is
to allow the head to cool as necessary (figure 8–25). extremely important to understand and learn the
The ax head should not be so hot that you cannot nuances of hand filing and stoning. Do not use
touch or hold it. Be especially careful around the cut- powertools for the final steps of sharpening an ax
ting edge; this area is thin and heat can quickly build head. Learning to use hand files and stones will give
up and ruin the temper. The metal changes color if it you a new appreciation for the effort required to
starts to get too hot. If you notice the metal changing shape and sharpen an ax head.
to shades of blue or purple, you are changing the
temper of the steel and should stop immediately to
prevent more damage. Never allow the sander to
contact the cutting edge.

Figure 8–25—Lifting an electric

sander off the ax head (left) to
check for heat buildup and to allow
the head to cool (below). —This
photo was digitally altered.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 79
Sharpening an Ax Head
To begin hand filing, secure the ax to a workbench may contact the cutting edge. The handle, file guard,
with the head protruding over the edge. Ensure that and gloves protect your hands from cuts. Use both
the work area has adequate lighting to enable you to hands to file. Use firm, even strokes and lift the file at
work safely and to monitor the progression of the fil- the end of each stroke (figure 8–27). Return to the
ing. Begin by making long push strokes with the file point at which you started and repeat the process.
toward the center of the ax head (figure 8–26). Do not Do not run the file back and forth across the ax head
file from the back side of the head toward the cutting in a sawing motion; this will not produce the desired
edge; this can roll (bend) the edge of the ax head effect because the bastard file only cuts as you push
over. The file should have a handle with a guard on it it. Frequently tap the file to remove loose metal fil-
for your protection. You should also wear good, cut- ings. If shavings clog or pin the file, stop and clean
resistant or leather gloves, at least on the hand that the file with a file card.

Figure 8–26—Using a push stroke

on an ax head secured to a
workbench.

Figure 8–27—Lifting the file off the

ax head at the end of the push
stroke.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

80
The condition of the file and the pressure you apply Forming the Cutting Edge
determine the amount of metal you remove with As the ax head begins to take shape, use a draw
each stroke. The more pressure you put on the file stroke to begin forming the cutting edge (figure 8–29).
the faster it cuts. Stop frequently to examine the Draw filing removes steel from just behind the cutting
work visually and with your fingers (to identify high edge, helps shape the area, and provides a smoother
and low spots that your eyes may not see). Rotate finish to the ax head.
the ax head as needed to file both sides evenly. Try
to achieve a fan shape across the blade as you file. As you work, tip the file slightly so that the back edge
Leave the corners (tips) of the toe and heel a little bit cuts (see figure 7–6). Proper draw filing forms long
thicker than the rest of the cutting edge (figure 8–28). curls of steel rather than just shavings. When filing
The fan-shape filing helps to reinforce the toe and close to the cutting edge, a thin metal wire or burr
heel of the cutting edge.

A
B

A B C

Figure 8–28—The ends of the ax head (the toe and heel)

are unsupported edges. Leave the toe and heel slightly
thicker to prevent the cutting edge from chipping.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 81
appears on the opposite side of the ax head. Use a ax gauge to confirm that you have shaped the ax
whetstone to remove the burr. Beginners commonly head properly (figure 8–30).
make the mistake of applying more pressure mid-
stroke, which can cause a hollow spot to form in the As the ax head begins to take shape, the visual varia-
center of the ax head. Be aware of the tendency to tions become less pronounced. A strong light source
apply more pressure midstroke and try to keep even reflecting across the steel can pick up irregularities.
pressure throughout the entire process. As you work those areas down to the point where the
ax head has a consistent finish, you will again need to
Remove the ax from the workbench, rotate the head rely on your sense of touch. While you may no longer
to the opposite side, and resecure the ax to the work- be able to see the minute variations in the ax head,
bench. Do not focus on completing one side before your fingertips will feel variations in thickness and will
working on the opposite side. Work both sides of the help identify areas where you need to concentrate to
ax head with the file, using push and draw strokes transform the ax head into an efficient cutting tool.
until the sides are symmetrical and smooth. Use an

Figure 8–29—Using a draw stroke on

an ax head secured to a workbench.

Figure 8–30—Using an ax gauge to

ensure an ax head is symmetrical. Note
that the tip of the cutting edge fits into
the circle and the sides of the ax head
are flush with the gauge.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

82
Honing the Bevel
At this stage, you can also switch to using an ax lubricant is typically water, saliva, or an oil. The lubri-
stone or a diamond sharpening stone to begin honing cant floats away metal filings as you sharpen the ax.
the bevel (figure 8–31). Ax stones are round, carbo- Apply the lubricant and then work the coarse side of
rundum sharpening stones that typically have a the stone in a circular motion along the side and up
coarse and a fine side. Similar stones are available, to the cutting edge of the ax. Once you create a burr
but an ax stone fits nicely in your hand. Some ax on the opposite side of the ax, turn the head over
stones have a grooved center that provides protec- and repeat the process. Repeat the entire process
tion for your fingertips (figure 8–32). Ax stones in gen- using the fine side of the ax stone.
eral require a lubricant to work efficiently. That

Figure 8–31—Using an ax stone to

hone the bevel.

Japanese water stone Diamond stone

Figure 8–32—A Japanese water

stone, a diamond stone, and three
different ax stones. The ax stone on
the bottom right has a finger groove.

Fine whetstone
Finger groove
Ax stones

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 83
Developing the Microbevel
Once you properly shape the ax head, you need to fo-
cus on the microbevel. The microbevel is an extreme- Whetstone or Wet Stone?
ly important part of the ax head; it provides strength
The proper term and spelling is whetstone. The
and durability to the cutting edge (figure 8–33).
word “whet” means to sharpen, so a “whetstone”
is a stone used to sharpen edged tools.
Use a fine diamond stone or whetstone, such as
a Hard Arkansas (or similar type) stone to develop To get the most out of a whetstone, keep the
the microbevel (see figure 8–7). As usual, axmen stone lubricated with water or oil. Mineral oil, a
have their preferred techniques for developing a light machine oil, or automatic transmission fluid
microbevel. These preferences may include the type are acceptable oils. The lubricant helps carry
and size of stone they use and the motion in which away particles of metal—known as swarf—re-
they move the stone. The author prefers to move the leased through the stoning process that could
stone vertical to the edge, from toe to heel. This ac- otherwise cause the stone to clog and reduce its
tion helps to develop and establish the angle of the effective cutting power.

microbevel and its relationship to the rest of the cut-

ting edge. Once you establish the microbevel, move With few exceptions, the author uses only water
on his sharpening stones. Oil permeates the po-
the stone horizontally back and forth along the cut-
rous texture of a whetstone, while water dries out
ting edge. The microbevel itself is slight, perhaps 1∕16
and leaves the stone in its natural state. Once you
of an inch along the entire length of the cutting edge.
put oil on a whetstone, you should continue to
Because the microbevel is so small, it is difficult to
use only oil as a lubricant for that whetstone.
measure the angle accurately, but it should be about
25 degrees. You will determine through trial and error
what angle and grinds work best for your ax and your
cutting style.

Microbevel

Figure 8–33—The microbevel

adds strength and durability to the
cutting edge.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

84
Putting the Final Cutting Edge on an Ax
Natural Sharpening Stones Head
With reduced demand, the cost of mining and pro- Use a leather strop to put a truly sharp final edge on
ducing high-quality, natural sharpening stones has an ax head (figure 8–34). The strop hones and polish-
risen dramatically over the last several decades. es the cutting edge to razor sharpness. A polished
This is especially true for Soft Arkansas and Hard cutting edge has less friction as it enters wood, pen-
Arkansas stones. If you have a good sharpening etrating deeper and severing wood fibers better. Even
stone, take care of it and it will last a lifetime. more important than honing the edge, stropping an ax
head removes any super fine thread or burr of steel
(also known as feather or wire edges). It is possible to
Do not confuse the traditional whetstone with a remove these threads or burrs with careful honing, but
water stone. Similar to a whetstone, water stones stropping does a better job.
can be made of both natural and synthetic materi-
als. Most water stones are synthetic and are made
of aluminum oxide.

A water stone is softer than a whetstone. Because it

is softer, the top, abrasive material wears away more
quickly, constantly exposing fresh, sharp, abrasive
material. This enables you to sharpen an ax faster.
This may seem like an advantage, but it does have
drawbacks.

Water stones can be expensive. Because they are

softer, they wear out more quickly and are more
prone to uneven wear. This requires you to flatten the
stone regularly to maintain its shape. The author con-
siders water stones best suited for sharpening small-
er-edged tools, such as knives, chisels, and wood
plane blades, rather than axes.

Figure 8–34—Using a leather strop to sharpen a cutting edge.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

 85

A Leather Strop: Suede versus Smooth If you make your own strop, choose leather that is
1∕8-inch thick or thicker and accepts a honing com-
Suede (the flesh side of a leather hide) or smooth (the
pound without becoming too slick or too thick.
grain side of a leather hide) both work well for a strop.
Suede may be a little better for heavier-edged tools,
such as axes, while smooth may be better for finer-
edged tools, such as knives and razors. Using honing
compounds (figure 8–35) eventually makes both the
flesh and grain sides of a leather hide nearly
indistinguishable.

Figure 8–35—Rubbing honing

compound into a leather strop
attached to a board.

Strop a cutting edge by moving the ax head back- Because of the size and weight of an ax, the com-
ward against the leather so that the leather contacts mon barbershop strop is not appropriate for honing
the back side of the cutting edge. Always move an an ax head. For safety reasons, it is best to secure
ax in the direction that does not cut into the leather. a piece of leather to a wooden board. The author
The proper angle is 35 to 40 degrees. Keep the cut- uses a strop secured to a piece of hardwood that is
ting edge slightly elevated so that the ax head moves 3-inches wide by 12-inches long. If you use a dedi-
across the leather. Apply pressure on the back of the cated sharpening station, you can secure this board
ax head and not on the cutting edge. to your workbench. You can carry a small honing
strop (about 1 inch by 3 inches) on a ½-inch piece of

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head

86
plywood for honing in the field. Honing compounds
are fine, abrasive materials that you can apply to a
strop to assist with the final sharpening and polishing
of your ax.

After spending so much time shaping and sharpen-

ing an ax head, it is important to keep it sharp. Ex-
perienced axmen carry a small sharpening stone to
rehone their cutting edge throughout the day. Clean
the ax head at the end of a day to remove any pitch.
Hone the cutting edge and rub light machine oil or
furniture or car wax over the ax head to protect it
from rusting.

The publication “An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Man-

ual” (9923–2823P–MTDC) <[Link]
php/library_card.php?p_num=9923%202823P> pro-
vides additional information about sharpening axes.

Chapter 8—Sharpening and Shaping an Ax Head