DARLING

DRESS
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@_immadeofmagic
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This guide is strictly for personal use and non-commercial use only.
You are not allowed to sell items you've made using this pattern

Please do not alter, share, sell, rename, or redistribute this, or the photos
contained therein, as your own.
This guide and the photos are property of Immadeofmagic.

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please tag me so I can see them!
As always, if you have any questions, you can message me on
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 The dress is made to measure and stitches used can be alternated
or changed.

It is best suited for an intermediate or advanced beginner level.

Recommend for those who have experience with made-t0-measure
or intuitive pattern.

There is no gauge for this pattern you can use whatever yarn and hook
size you want. For reference I used lace, fingering, dk yarns
with 4.5 mm hook size.
 MATERAILS

Crochet hook - I used 4.5 mm

color A
color B Tapestry needlefor sewing in loose ends
color C
Measuring tape

You can use as many colors as you Scissors

like, I personally prefer 3 colors.
Marker
I pick one main color, a lighter shade
of that color and a contrast color Elastic band/ Thread
 ABBREVATIONS
ch = chain stitch inc = increase
sc= single crochet sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet st = stitch
tr = treble crochet alt = alternate
BL or BLO = back loop or back loop only approx = approximately
BPdc = back post double crochet rnd = round
FP = front post
FPdc = front post double crochet
Crossed DC =cross double crochet
Crossed TR =crossed tremble crochet
 ATTENTION
Please note that this dress is made without counting number of stitches.
In some rows, you might find you don’t have enough st for the
“crossed double crochet”or “crossed tremble crochet”.
That will occur at the of the row and when it does, you can simply put
one DC or one TR in that last stitch before joining the row with sl st

It might sound confusing now but it will make more sense later.
 THE SKIRT

Rnd1- with color A, make a loose foundation chain the length of your lower waist
measurement. Make sure it can get past your hips before joining the round with sl st.

Rnd2- after joining the round with sl st. chain 2 (don’t count as a st), turn your
work then DC into the next st. Continue with DC till the last st.

Rnd3- ch 3, turn your work then TR in every stitch,

 THE SKIRT

I’m changing my color now (color B)

but you can continue with the same color if you’d like.

Rnd4- in this row, we are working with crossed double crochet. After joining the row,
chain 2, turn your work, skip one st, work DC in the next st.
Then go back and work one DC in that skipped stitch. Continue this to the end the.

if you are left with one stitch at the end of the row , don’t worry. Just work DC in and then sl st.
 THE SKIRT

You are going to assign the sides of your skirt.

This is where we’ll do increases.
I want the end of each row to be in the
back, so my increases will go on the sides
like how it’s shown in the picture.
Once you assign where the increases will
be, put the stitch markers in and join the
new yarn (i changed back to color A)

ps. don’t worry if it’s not perfect. You won’t see the different
 THE SKIRT

Rnd5- after joining color A, chain 2 then turn your work.

Work DC till you reach the first stitch marker, work 2 DC in that stitch (inc).
Continue working DC in every st until you reach the second marker, then 2 DC (inc).
Continue working DC in every st until the end of the row. sl st

Rnd6- crossed tremble crochet ( like crossed DC but TR)

If you are left with one stitch at the end of the row , don’t worry.
Just work TR in, then sl st.
 THE SKIRT

From this rows onwards, you can pick any stitch and color to work with.
Just alternate. SC,DC,TR, Crossed DC, Crossed TR
In the rows that you use DC,TR. Put increases on the sides like how you did in row5
The increases are for you hips, you want to make it big enough until it fits you
comfortably /more on the bigger side.

Continue alternating SC,DC, Crossed DC, Cross TR in different colors

until your work is long enough to cover half your buttock.
This is how I did mine (don’t forget to turn your work after sl st )
Rnd7- chain 2 then Crossed DC in color B, sl st
Rnd8- chain 2 then DC with increases on the sidesin color C, sl st
(look for where you put inc in from previous row to determine where your new inc will be )
Rnd9- chain 2 then DC with increases on the sides in color A, sl st
Rnd10- chain 3 then TR in color A
Rnd11- SC with no inc in color B
Rnd12- DC with inc in color A
Rnd13- TR in color A
Rnd14- SC with no inc in color C
Rnd15- TR in color B

If you are left with one stitch at the end of crossed DC/TR rows, just work in one DC/TR
In my case, 15 rows is long enough and since my foundation chain was a bit big.
I don’t need a lot of increases. I did 8 in total. 4 rows, 2 each.

If you still need more length, continue alternate SC,DC,TR, Crossed DC/TR
If you are left with one stitch at the end of crossed DC/TR rows, just work in one DC/TR

And once you’re happy with the length (cover half of your buttock)
we’ll start working on the dramatic ruffles.

Note that the ruffles might seem to start quite high but tust me, it‘s not.
It‘ll make semse once you have more rows.
 THE RUFFLE

To make the ruffles, we’ll work in a lot of increases.

The pattern is -with the rows of DC or TR, after every 3 stitches,
you’ll place one increase in the next stitch (4th stitch)
On the rows of crossed DC,crossed TR, NO increases.
just follow me for a few rows. it’ll make sense soon.

Rnd16- or your next round if you already have more than 16 rows.In color A
chain 2, turn, work 1DC in the next 3 st. In 4th st, 2DC.
Then continue with 1DC in the next 3 st, 2DC in the next st. all the way till the end
If by the end, if you’re left with 1-3 stitches, just work in regular DC. no inc.
Next rnd, in color B. Chain 2, turn. Work 1DC in the next 3 st, 2 dc in the 4th stitch.
Then continue with 1DC in the next 3 st, 2DC in the next st.
all the way till the end , sl st.
If by the end, you’re left with 1-3 stitches, just work in regular DC. no inc.

Next rnd,in color C, chain 2, turn. Work in crossed DC all the way till the end. sl st
If you are left with one stitch at the end of the rows, just work in one DC.

Next rnd, in color A. Chain 2, turn. Work 1DC in the next 3 st, 2 dc in the 4th stitch.
Then continue with 1DC in the next 3 st, 2DC in the next st.
all the way till the end , sl st.
Next rnd, in color A. Chain 3, turn. Work 1TR in the next 3 st, 2 TR in the 4th stitch.
Then continue with 1TR in the next 3 st, 2TR in the next st.
all the way till the end , sl st.
If by the end, you’re left with 1-3 stitches, just work in regular TR. no inc.

Now you’ll start to get it!

NOte: please don’t get confused that the increases in the new row have to link
with the ones from last row. Just continue the pattern of after every 3 stitches,
you’ll place one increase in the next stitch (4th stitch)
From this row forward, you can alternate the stitches and increases however you like.
If at this point you have a lot of stitches in one round, and it’s too overwhelming.
You can Do 1 round with inc and 1 round without/
or 1 round with inc and 2 round without. it’d still turn out pretty

but here’s how I did mine :

bear in mind I ended up having 500-600 stitches in each round
(I’m now at row 21)
rnd21: (color B)I work in DC with 1 increase on every 3 stitch (1 inc on 4th st)
rnd22: (color C)I work in DC with 1 increase on every 4 stitch (1 inc on 5th st)
rnd23: (color B)I work in crossed TR with no inc
rnd24:(color B) DC with 1 inc on every 3 st
rnd25:(color A) DC with 1 inc on every 4 st
and 26-28: DC with no inc

I recommend with last 2-3 rows are without increases, I find it gives a nicer effect to
the finish look.

I ended my skirt here with 28 rows. The lenght is ~13 inches

when counting the rows, I refer to the Foundation chain we did as well
but I actually have 27 rows. I hope this make sense.
 THE BODICE

Measure your desired width and length

then use the same crochet stitches we’ve been
working with. alternate it however you like
}
THE TOP

since I don’t really have time to finish this

I’m going to list out exactly I made mine
But remember that you can make it however
you like :)

Rnd1-Foundation chain Rnd6-11- DC

Rnd2- DC Rnd12- SC
Rnd3- Front post DC Rnd13- Front post DC
Rnd4- Back post DC Rnd14- Back post DC
Rnd5- FLO SC Rnd15- DC front post DC
 THE TOP

Pinch and tie in the middle, adding a bow.

then crochet the straps and you’re done!

Add the tie in the back like so

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on instagram @_immadeofmagic.