TRAVEL

OLD TOWN, NEW HANGOUT

Baba Colin Chee checks out Hangout@Jonker in old Melaka Town

I
had not been back to Melaka for a good seven years. been carefully refurbished as
Everyone told me how much it had changed. Some cosy boutique and budget
said it had become very commercial. Others said hotels, without loss to their
for the better. heritage charms. The 22-room
The last time I was there in 2003, Melaka was still Hangout@ Jonker, for
quaint. There were hints of change for the better. The instance, is a smart
weekend night market on Jonker Street was having its conversion. The no-frills
first tentative start. The kueh-kueh and home-made budget hotel for the value
trinket stalls would start to emerge at five o’clock in savvy traveller has largely
the evening. A hesitant bustle would accompany it. minimalist Scandinavian
Then, the old craft, goldsmith and antique shops decor and surprising elements
were still there and appeared to be thriving. And of Peranakan.
although Jonker Street had been renamed Jalan Hang I visited the Hangout twice
Jebat and Heeren Street became Jalan Tun Tan Cheng while in Melaka. Each time I
Lock, Melakans continued to stick affectionately to was received with a youthful cheerfulness. After a walk Above and bottom
the old iconic names. in sweltering heavy heat, a smile and a genuine welcome right: Sweeping vistas
of Malacca River and
Returning to this old town in November 2010, I are a relief. Strategically located at the junction of the Old Town from
could sense and see the changes that had taken place. Jonker and Heeren Streets, it is just over the bridge the roof terrace of the
Not all for the better. from the Stadthuys, the Red Square built as an boutique hotel.
Some of my favourite eateries and craft shops have administrative centre for the Dutch in the mid 1960s.
disappeared or had relocated. More land has been The Hangout is therefore in the centre of a 500-
reclaimed from the Malacca Straits for poorly built meter radius of all that’s good to eat in old Malacca
buildings that are unoccupied. The large green Padang town – pork satay, chicken rice, chendol, Portugese
has become a huge shopping complex opposite the cakes, Peranakan cuisine, chilli crabs, mee sua soup,
Mahkota Parade, Melaka’s first shopping centre. Teochew cuisine, and a whole lot more! And good
And traffic has grown thick and heavy in Melaka’s shopping too.
once charming Its rooftop terrace opens wonderfully to
narrow streets. vistas of the old town and river mouth. In the evenings,
Still, not all this would be a wonderful place to be. The hotel
of the town’s will appeal to the young and those with an eye on
kampong feel have value. However, be warned: there are rooms without
been lost. Several windows, although this is well compensated by
of the older their cleanliness, nice and bright decor and
buildings have ambient lighting.

Left: A stylized
facelift for an old
building.

ISSUE 1 • 2011 | 23
 BOOKS

TITILLATING TALES
Nyonya Lee Su Kim’s latest offering shines a light on many forgotten narratives
from the heyday of Peranakan culture, reports Baba Emeric Lau

R
eading Lee Su Kim’s newly-published collection
of short stories, Kebaya Tales – Of matriarchs,
maidens, mistresses and matchmakers, I felt
transported back to the many languid childhood
afternoons spent with my own grandparents. Waiting
for my parents to return from work, they would
often tell me stories from the past to while away
the time. If only I had bothered to commit their
words to paper, I might have ended up with a
similar collection of gems. Lee’s stories are
indeed based on or inspired by real-life events
which she has collected from her mother,
grandmother and other bibiks and nyonyas.
Laced with gentle humour and
candour, the stories cannot fail to draw
the reader in - I completed the book
in a single sitting, and found myself
thirsting for more! Crafted around events
and memories scandalous, momentous,
heart-rending and even supernatural, the stories
sparkle delightfully like the intan adorning a
nyonya’s kerosang. There’s the boastful wife, suddenly
widowed and then having to face, in the flesh, evidence
of her husband’s indiscretions at his wake in front of Besides these and many other compelling stories,
all and sundry. How about a poignant vignette from Lee also deftly captures moments that reflect our
Cleverly interspersed World War Two on a Japanese officer’s unlikely changing cultural mores, even down to delicate matters
between the stories friendship with a Baba and his family? Or an insight of the bedroom: brides everywhere can thank
are breathtaking
pictures of Lee’s to the blithe ignorance of the young when they attempt Feminism for no longer needing to present their
collection of kebayas to pack some food that the spirits of an island deem mothers-in-law with the crimson evidence of their
and jewelry.
as contraband? maidenhood! But I’ll leave off sharing the stories
here, lest I let slip more spoilers. Suffice to say that
on the merit of its wit and insight alone, this book
comes fully recommended.
Yet, like bonus tracks on a music CD, Lee has
added a simple introduction about Peranakan culture
and the lifestyles of the babas and nyonyas. Further
interspersed between the stories are breathtaking
photos featuring Lee’s gorgeous kebaya and jewellery
collection, old black and white prints from her family
albums and even a specially written panton from our
Association Committee Member Baba Chan Eng
Thai. An elegant layout, complemented by easily
legible typefaces, ensures that this book delivers pure
reading pleasure from start to finish.

Kebaya Tales – Of Matriarchs, Maidens, Mistresses and

Matchmakers is published by Marshall Cavendish Editions and
is now available at all good bookstores.

24 | ISSUE 1 • 2011
 EVENTS

TREASURES FROM THE

NYONYA’S WARDROBE

C
ome April, a spectacular showcase of rare and early kebayas and
batiks will go on display at the Peranakan Museum, including
400 items donated by our Association Life President Baba Lee
Kip Lee and Mrs Elizabeth Lee plus masterpieces on loan from three
Dutch museums.
Baba Peter Lee is the external curator of this special exhibition,
titled Sarong Kebaya: Peranakan Fashion and its
International Sources. It traces the history and
development of the sarong kebaya, and
attempts to set it in its proper art, historical
and stylistic context, based on new
research and previously unpublished
textiles and garments.
The story spans an extensive
period of five centuries and a vast
geographical area, linking 15th
century Goa in western India
where the first East-West
cross-cultural communities
emerged through Portuguese
colonisation in Asia, to 17th
century Batavia and finally to the
20th century Malay Archipelago.
The exhibition promises to be
a visual feast, displaying pieces that
are of high quality, condition and
rarity, most which have not been displayed
before. The Museum will also display
additional stunning examples from its own
collection of Indian trade textiles which
as antecedents to the Peranakan sarongs
were traded to Southeast Asia for over Kebaya with appliqué
motifs and a trim of
500 years. broderie anglaise, and a
Visitors will learn how the aesthetics hand-drawn batik sarong
Batik baju panjang (long by Tan Sin Ing, Sidoarjo,
and style of dressing of the creolised robe) with a stamped pattern for a Peranakan Chinese
communities evolved, became influenced and a hand-drawn batik lady, c. 1920.
sarong, both from the north Kebaya: Gift of Mr and
by, and in turn exerted influence on, the coast of Java, for a Peranakan Mrs Lee Kip Lee,
dress of the indigenous and other immigrant Chinese lady, c. 1900. Peranakan Museum
communities through the ages. Baju panjang: Gift of Mr collection
and Mrs Lee Kip Lee, Sarong: On loan from
A major rotation of up to half of the Peranakan Museum Mr and Mrs Lee Kip Lee.
artefacts displayed is planned halfway through collection.
Sarong: On loan from Mr
the 10-month long exhibition period to and Mrs Lee Kip Lee.
encourage repeat visits.

ISSUE 1 • 2011 | 25
 EVENTS

A PHUKET-FUL OF WONDERS
Nyonya Linda Chee is wowed by the cultural wealth of the Thai Peranakans

T he rich Thai Peranakan culture, hospitality and

graciousness were spelt out in capital letters the
moment we arrived at the Pearl of the Andaman
for the 23rd Peranakan Convention from 20 -22
colour and revelry. At the welcome dinner on Saturday
evening, the various associations from Phuket, Melaka,
Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Melbourne and Singapore
presented songs and dances that created much
November 2010. It was only the second time Phuket merriment at a charming pierside restaurant lined
was hosting the with giant trees fronting Chalong Bay.
annual gathering of The dinner depicted the theme of the convention,
Peranakans from “From Quli to Bong Tao” (“from coolie to towkay”), to
the region. represent the Peranakans in Phuket whose families
We were warmly had risen through the 19th century from poor
received at the migrants from China to become wealthy tin mine
airport by kebaya- owners there. Some babas, among them our First
clad Thai nyonyas Vice-President Baba Alan Koh and actor member
who ensured Baba Tony Quek, chose to dress as labourers from
nothing and nobody China just landed at Phuket Bay. All the nyonyas
were amiss when we there had a shoo-in role, to show off their finery as
arrived at mid-day. the beloved daughters of the tin miners. As in all
The warm weather happy endings, the performers and audience gamely
suited a quick took to the floor to ronggeng and joget the night away.
noontime snooze in The gala dinner on the second and final evening
the coach, on the took us to the Thai Village Park. As it so happened
way to quaint with the clever organisers, our convention was timed
Phuket town. to coincide with the Loy Krathong Festival on 21
Refreshed, I was November. The convention’s Loy Krathong Pageant
pleasantly surprised had members of the various associations furiously
to be confronted buying roses for charity, in a raucous competition to
with so many give their own contestants the most roses to win the
familiar faces and title. The Peranakan Association Singapore (TPAS)
happy hellos in the emerged the highest bidder and our radiant Angeline
crowded hotel lobby. Kong was Miss Loy Krathong!
The TPAS “coolies”
(labourers) Alan
No wonder. The convention, and perhaps the resort I was enchanted by the evening finale. By
Koh and Tony Quek attraction too, had drawn one of the biggest, if not candlelight, many participants trooped down to the
hamming it up. the biggest turnouts ever, with more than 200 overseas lakeside to float their own lotus krathong. Others lit
delegates including about 70 from Singapore, more candles in three-feet high rice paper kome loy (lanterns)
than 40 each from Kuala Lumpur and Melaka, and which, like graceful white angels, gently floated up
eight precious members all the way from Melbourne. before disappearing into the ink-black sky.
The Thai Peranakan Association had pulled out The Thai Peranakans in balmy Phuket did
all stops to leave a memorable impression. At the themselves proud in staging an excellent show. As
Royal Phuket Marina, participants were treated to a voiced by many, Penang would have a hard act to
feast of Thai culture. These included an orchestra follow for next year’s convention.
playing the Thai King’s own compositions, classical
dances, and highly skilled dragon dance and puppetry
performances, all to mark the grand opening of the Loy Krathong Festival
convention - no less by the Governor of Phuket Loy Krathong is held on the full moon night of
Province, Khun Tree Ackaradecha. The audience was the 12th month in the Thai lunar calendar. Loy
also wowed by a bevy of well-dressed Thai nyonyas means to float and krathong, a raft. The floating
who sashayed onstage to display glittering tiaras, of a krathong symbolises dispelling ill fortune
beautifully hand-made from silver and gold thread, and bringing good luck, as well as honouring
as part of the conference on the second day. the Goddess of Water, Phra Mae Khongkha.
Both convention evenings were equally festive in

26 | ISSUE 1 • 2011
 1 2

3 4

5 6
7
1&2: Merriment at the welcome dinner along
Chalong Bay.

3: A full turnout at the grand opening of the

Convention.

4: Thai Peranakan Association Vice-President

Pranee Sakulpipatana introducing all the
association chiefs onstage at the Convention.

5: The cultural performances were a visual

feast.

6: The parade of Thai nyonyas in their unique

finery, including glittering silver and gold thread
8 tiaras.

9 7: Miss Loy Krathong, Nyonya Angeline Kong

from TPAS (middle), flanked by the runners
up, Evonne Yeo from Melaka (in blue) and
Lilian Tong from Penang (in red).

8: A giant krathong glowed as if to greet Loy

Krathong contestants who led the lakeside
floating of krathongs for good luck.

9: The glowing kome loy (lanterns) that floated

gently into the night sky.

ISSUE 1 • 2011 | 27
 EVENTS

EAT, DRINK AND

DESSERTS
ARE ON THE
BALCONY!
Baba Emeric Lau reports on the new
approach to TPAS Dinner & Dance

F
urniture giant IKEA’s philosophy is a good
parallel to the revised objectives of The
Peranakan Association of Singapore (TPAS)
Dinner and Dance (D&D) committee in organising
this year’s celebration on 2 December 2010.
Aiming to be more inclusive than before, the
committee boldly decided to lower the price of its
D&D tickets to an unprecedented $38 for
Association members and $58 for non-members.
The event was then guided by what this lower price
could best procure. Just like IKEA, some frills were
clipped, but without cutting corners overall. With
Doyen G.T. Lye and great resourcefulness, the ballroom of the Singapore
Nyonya Mabel Lee
entertain with their Chinese Chamber of Commerce and Industry was
comedic repartee. secured as the venue at a reasonable cost. Long-
time caterers Guan Hoe Soon provided a delectable cleared quickly to make room for everyone to
buffet spread of nyonya favourites including ngoh joget, savoury desserts of pulot hitam and chendol
hiang and bakwan kepiting. Even though a tight were doled out in generous portions on the
space meant that the buffet service had to be ballroom’s balcony!

It was full house

at the D & D.

28 | ISSUE 1 • 2011
 EVENTS

The party vibe was not in the least dampened. This being TPAS’ 110th anniversary, it was
Seven-piece band, The Locomotions, performed also a time to take stock of how far the community
up-tempo favourites and guests needed no prompting had come, and thank all our loyal supporters. Guests
to turn the stage front into their dance floor. included representatives from the Singapore
Entertainment also came in the form of a light- Tourism Board and the Joo Chiat Community Club
hearted repartee between doyen G.T. Lye and Peranakan Interest Group, both of whom TPAS
Nyonya Mabel Lee and a medley of songs from the is proud to be able to count as its partners in
Peranakan Voices. cultural promotion.

For 2011, the D&D committee will

organise two dinners. The Peranakan
Ball will be held on Saturday 9 July
2011 from 7:30pm at the Grand
Ballroom of the Grand Copthorne
Waterfront Hotel, 392 Havelock Road.
This Ball will be a fund-raising project
for TPAS, and it is hoped that
members will donate generously
through the purchase of dinner tables.
The 111th D&D will be held later
in the year, along similar lines as
2010's. Ready your stomachs for not
Guests joget as
one, but two opportunities to eat, The Locomotions
drink and buat lao jiat! play familiar
favourites.

It was and twist for Nyonya Mary Lee of The Peranakan Voices

E
ager to put up a good show, our choir, The
Peranakan Voices (TPV), arrived early at
the TPAS D&D. When our turn came, we
started off with a Nona-Chan-Katong medley which
was well received by an appreciative crowd. The
choir then sang two verses of the song Baju
Panjang as an introduction to the hilarious skit
by Wak Wak G. T. Lye and TPV member Nyonya
Mabel Lee.
Our team fanned out across the room to rope
in guests for a sing and dance session. Familiar
classics like Sayang Sayang, Enjoy Yourself, Forever
and Ever, and Hi-Lili, Hi-Lo evoked much nostalgia
especially among the seniors. On occasions like and Dayung Sampan. Special mention must also The PVs charm
this, the true Nyonya and Baba spirit of expressing be made of Mr Robert Fernando, who performed guests with their
songs.
joy in life clearly shone through. and exchanged witty banter with the audience.
Later on in the month, on Friday 10 December,
TPV performed at the RSVP’s (The Organisation The Peranakan Voices welcomes members who would
of Senior Volunteers) Volunteers’ Appreciation like to join them! Please email [email protected] for
Night Dinner. The repertoire included Teh Sama more information.
Kopi, Baju Panjang and the Singapura Medley Would you like The Peranakan Voices to perform at your
comprising Geylang Sipaku Geylang, Rasa Sayang event or function? Please email [email protected].

ISSUE 1 • 2011 | 29
 EVENTS

Baba Emeric Lau attends GSA’s most glamorous do yet

I
Key members, t was an evening of
supporters and heartwarming ‘live’
associates partake
in a symbolic 100th musical entertainment,
anniversary cake- spontaneous line-dancing
cutting ceremony. and joget at what Gunong
Sayang Association’s
(GSA) President, Baba
Victor Goh, appropriately
termed the “jewel in the
crown” of its centennial
celebrations – GSA’s
100th Anniversary Dinner
and Dance on 20
November 2010. Despite
a slightly late start and
rumbling stomachs all
round, Baba Victor made
it a point to graciously
thank GSA’s many
supporters and sponsors

decades past, causing many

guests to exclaim in delight,
“Wah! I haven’t heard this
song since I was a little girl…”
GSA’s members proved
irrepressible as they lined up
and took to the stage to
serenade the ballroom with
love songs and jazz standards.
On the dance floor,
numerous couples and
groups of friends line-danced,
waltzed and did the joget to
their heart’s content in
between courses.
Above: The Bibik
Indefatigable hosts K.T.
Singers open the in a succinct but touching and Ming kept the energy
evening with a speech that kicked off the bubbling over as they greeted
hearty rendition of
GSA's theme song. evening’s revelry. guests, outlined the
Held at the Hilton programme and conducted
Right: Hosts K.T. Hotel’s Grand Ballroom, the lucky draw. The warm
and Ming,
resplendent in their about 300 guests tucked into ambience made for a most
kebayas. a sumptuous Chinese-style dinner surrounded by enjoyable party. It was a fitting bash that reflected
posters of stars from yesteryears that evoked the the dedication, passion and indeed sayang aplenty
night’s Down Memory Lane theme. Yet the mood that all GSA members share in abundance.
was anything but sedate! GSA’s resident Dendang Selamat seratus taon, GSA – Congratulations on
Irama Band ensured a flow of lively music from your first 100; here’s to the next 100!

30 | ISSUE 1 • 2011
 EVENTS

WEE'S WONDER WOMEN

Baba Peter Lee reports on the launch of a book conceptualised by the wife and
daughter of the late Wee Kim Wee

O
n Monday 15
November
2010 at the
Raffles Hotel, a
wonderful cross-
section of
Singaporeans came
together to witness
the launch of Cooking
Mrs Wee Kim Wee (in
for the President: wheelchair) with her
Reflections and Recipes daughter Wee Eng
of Mrs Wee Kim Wee, Hwa, Anastasia Liew
(holding the book) and
authored by Nyonya President Nathan at the
Wee Eng Hwa, the book launch.
daughter of our Photographs courtesy of
Nanyang Technological
beloved and late University.
former President.
The event was graced by the presence of
none other than President S.R. Nathan and
Mrs Nathan. The book has so far raised over
$1 million for Nanyang Technological
University's Wee Kim Wee Legacy Fund (which
supports the institute's Wee Kim Wee School
of Communication and Information), as well
as Girl Guides Singapore, Jamiyah Home for
the Aged, Life Community Services Society
and Trybe Limited (formerly Save the Children
Singapore).
A constellation of Singapore's Who's Who,
among whom were some rarely seen members
of the political and social Old Guard, as well
as ordinary Singaporeans from various walks
of life attended this event.
Nyonya Eng Hwa hosted the afternoon
together with her mother and siblings, and
managed to radiate the special charm so
characteristic of her father President Wee, by
making such an important occasion feel like
a warm and intimate family gathering.
Some Association members came forward
to support the book with substantial donations,
including Mrs Anastasia Liew (Bengawan Solo),
Dr Lee Suan Yew, Ms Agnes Tan Kim Lwi and
Mrs Lee Li-ming. The afternoon ended with
Peranakan high tea and a book sale, both of
which had enthusiastic responses.

ISSUE 1 • 2011 | 31
32 | ISSUE 1 • 2011
 EVENTS

BEYOND JUST (PLAY PLAY)

Main Wayang looks ahead confidently as a viable performing and outreach group

T
he Main Wayang Company (TMWC) has
grown from strength to strength, now maturing
into its seventh year! Since it began in 2004,
the performing group has successfully garnered
more active volunteers and youth participation for
events big and small.
2011 looks all set for an even more diverse range
of renewed activities and a series of cultural
exchanges locally and overseas.
Its focus for 2011 is to reach out to a greater,
wider community through a series of innovative
programmes and collaborative events, culminating
in a major musical revue concert at the end of the
year, all in the spirit of promoting and keeping
relevant the unique Peranakan culture and heritage. Workshops from May to June. TMWC’s School Our Taiwanese client
Already in the pipeline are private bookings for Outreach Programmes will coincide with Heritage (standing, in baju
panjang with
toa seh jit birthday parties in January, wedding Month in July. Possibly in August, it will launch its sanggul) was game
pageants and overseas cultural exchange shows in fourth music CD and then it is more overseas enough to dress up as
April, and the Anak Anak (Children’s) Peranakan cultural exchange events in September and the year- the bibik for the day!

end musical revue in November.

Artistic Director Baba Richard Tan said,“Kita
sudah ada banyak kreja kat sini. (We already have a
very busy year ahead.) I would like to thank our
active MW Kakis & Kawans (volunteers) and our
faithful and ardent supporters all these years for
believing in us, and in making our Peranakan dreams
come true.
“While we keep the old and traditional, we will A very lively showcase
also explore and evolve fresh new ways for the future. of the Peranakan
wedding pageant at
Together, we can unite and transform our Baba the APEC Summit at
culture and heritage into a vibrant and relevant the Esplanade,
modern lifestyle for the world to appreciate.” Singapore in 2009.

Our budding young

performers at the
Chingay Festival.

ISSUE 1 • 2011 | 33
34 | ISSUE 1 • 2011
 EVENTS

HITTING IT OFF IN YOKOHAMA

TPAS member Chie Iwasaki revels in the
popularity of Peranakan culture at the APEC
Japan Summit

T
he APEC Japan Summit 2010 last November was
an excellent opportunity to showcase to the Japanese
a relatively undiscovered Singapore attraction - the
Peranakan culture.
The Singapore booth at the Summit was undoubtedly
one of the most popular booths. The various APEC
member countries showed off their own unique
cultures at a six-day exhibition at the Akarenga Souko,
a converted warehouse.
Among the Peranakan exhibits were antiques, replicas
of nyonya ware and pairs of kasot manek. Visitors could
purchase the beautiful embroidered items. The live
Japanese
demonstrations on kebaya embroidery and Peranakan schoolgirls were
beading attracted many visitors. Many people were intrigued fascinated by the
by the sight of a Japanese lady doing the beading. She was skill shown in
creating intricate
Ms Mikiko Shigemori, who had studied the craft when kebaya embroidery
she was living in Singapore. (sulam).

STRUTTING OUR STUFF

Baba David Neo does his bit to promote the culture academically

T
he word ‘thrilled’ was truly an understatement He was fascinated with the aesthetics, colours
when I learned that I was one of only 11 selected and truly hybrid nature of the culture. He found
across Australia for the three-day Cultural the colours of the mourning period intriguing (black,
Research Network (CRN) Masterclass hosted by the white, blue and green) as well as the appropriation
University of Queensland (UQ). of pearls and jade into nyonya jewellery that
Last September, amidst the madness of teaching relegates them to a
and making the final amendments to my PhD, I said lower status when they
to myself, “I have nothing to lose, I will just send in are the most prized
a proposal to look at the material culture of the precious materials to
Peranakans”. I thought nothing of it after that. As I the Chinese.
am trying to branch into research on the Peranakans The workshop was
as a way of giving back to the culture academically, eclectic. It looked at
this coveted seat was a perfect opportunity. topics from Australian
The masterclass from 29 November to 1 December feminist memorabilia to
2010 was to be conducted by Professor of Filipino nationalism
Anthropology at University College London, Daniel and religious icono-
Miller, whose expertise is in material culture. His graphy. Not only did I
recent book, Stuff, published in 2010, engages with enjoy Brisbane and networking with my peers, it Materials from the
material culture and analyses clothing, among other opened up prospects and perspectives for further rich Peranakan
culture that were
things. His description of how the sari wears the Peranakan research. It was my first time in Brisbane presented at Prof
Indian woman was most intriguing! and taking the ferry each morning to UQ was glorious Daniel Miller’s
Lugging my books on the Peranakans to Brisbane, — we all commented that we could certainly deal with masterclass at UQ.
I also decided to don a baju lok chuan, kerosang, sarong travelling to work like this every day.
and my Tioh Kong’s kasot jong to show off our rich Prof Miller was especially encouraging in reassuring
material culture as I did my presentation. Prof Miller us of the value of our work, for which we fledgling
had not encountered a Peranakan before! researchers are all profoundly grateful.

ISSUE 1 • 2011 | 35
 EVENTS

HERITAGE GOES TO
THE GRASSROOTS

A
n intimate but keen crowd the embroidered kebayas and
gathered at the Joo Chiat beadwork that Peranakans are
CC Theatrette on 17 renowned for, they were
December 2010, for a talk on the nonetheless made with much
Peranakan Heritage by our TPAS care and could stand a lifetime
President, Baba Peter Wee. Over of use.
Peter Wee 90 minutes, he shared many The evening also featured
showing the aspects of the everyday lives most a performance by The
everyday items
in a Peranakan Peranakans led. Peranakan Voices and
household. Baba Peter also brought with concluded with simple
him several household items refreshments. This event is
including a child's patchwork another in a series of ongoing
quilt and a sireh set from his personal collection of collaborations and initiatives that TPAS is jointly
artifacts. While these modest items appear to pale organising with the Joo Chiat CC Peranakan
when compared to the more dazzling items such as Interest group.

36 | ISSUE 1 • 2011
 IN MEMORIAM

SINGAPORE’S NYONYA
Nyonya Ch’ng Kim See pays tribute to the extraordinary Nyonya Kwa Geok Choo

M rs Lee Kuan Yew, nee Kwa Geok Choo,

was born on 21 December 1920 and died
on 2 October 2010, a little more than three
months short of her 90th birthday. She had suffered
and recovered from her first stroke in 2003, only
to be struck down by a series of attacks in 2008,
leaving her in a vegetative state.
A woman of extraordinary qualities, Mrs Lee
exemplified the proverbial ‘woman behind the
successful man’. It is evident from the hundreds
of eulogies published since her demise, accounts
from family members and admission by her Mrs Lee Kuan Yew
husband, Minister Mentor (MM) Mr Lee Kuan nee Kwa Geok Choo,
Yew, that Mrs Lee walked softly but wielded the 1920 – 2010.
baton on the domestic front as well as in her legal
profession. She was the indispensable partner to
MM Lee.
Indeed, Mrs Lee embodied the qualities of a
typical nyonya brought up to be strong and able to University. She had been awarded the coveted
take on the challenge of raising a family and Queen’s Scholarship. After both obtained first class
providing steadfast support to the husband. The honours in Law, they returned to Singapore and
nyonya mother and wife is accomplished and remarried ‘openly’ in 1950. In 1955, the couple,
endowed with all the necessary virtues of quiet together with MM Lee’s late brother, Mr Dennis
talents and sobriety, staying in the background, Lee Kim Yew, set up the law firm Lee and Lee. Mrs
holding her peace but intervening ever so subtly Lee remained a founding and senior partner until
when the occasion demands it. This was Mrs Lee she semi-retired in the 1990s, becoming its
who, brought up in a conservative Peranakan family, consultant.
was understated and unassuming. Yet beneath this She ran a tight ship, avoiding non-deserving or
veneer was a brilliant, exceptional and tough woman. potentially scandalous cases. She eschewed
Mrs Lee married MM Lee ‘secretly’ in 1947 influence-peddling, especially with government
when both were studying law at Cambridge departments, so that Lee and Lee was beyond
reproach. Mrs Lee’s gainful
A perfect union of
employment allowed MM Lee to two brilliant minds.
leave the firm to focus full-time
on politics in 1959.
Three children were born:
Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong
in 1952, Dr Lee Wei Ling,
Director, Institute of
Neurological Science, in 1955
and Mr Lee Hsien Yang,
Chairman of the Civil Aviation
Authority of Singapore, in 1957.
They have one granddaughter
and six grandsons.
Although Mrs Lee worked
full-time at Lee and Lee, she
managed to strike a perfect work-
life balance. She did not socialise,
but reserved all her lunches for

ISSUE 1 • 2011 | 37
 IN MEMORIAM

her children when they came their feathers when they were
home from school. She would treated too harshly. Her
go home early to have dinner dignified behaviour and non-
with them and to help them intrusive attitude was the role
with their homework. Although model for all political spouses
she would dote on the children, to follow.
and later the grandchildren, All told, it was indeed a
she was a strict disciplinarian tough act for any married
and would not spare the rod, working woman to emulate.
though infrequently. She took But Mrs Lee seemed to have
particular care of the family’s performed it effortlessly.
diet, opting for fish, vegetables Determined and having made
and fruits. a commitment that she would
Mrs Lee led by example. She not let her legal training and
advised the children to live an mind go to waste, she
Mrs Lee doted on
honest and honourable life, simultaneously fulfilled her
her children and and to be egalitarian in their duties as an involved mother,
later, her outlook. Also, she had a love and a supportive and
grandchildren.
for European classics, literature intellectual wife.
and philosophy. Her interest in botany was credited Mrs Lee was called upon at various critical
for the lush landscape in the Istana where MM Lee moments by MM Lee to draft important documents,
has an office, and where the family would spend one of which was the water agreement appended
many leisure hours in the gardens, playing sports, to the separation agreement with Malaysia. She
games and swimming. edited his speeches, tightening them with simple
As a companion to MM Lee, Mrs Lee was often direct sentences, replacing his convoluted style. She
seen at his side, but always unobtrusive, discreet would sit up with him till four o’clock in the
and gentle. However, she was known to have politely morning when he drafted his memoirs (two volumes
chided her husband whenever he was too demanding of ‘The Singapore Story’) and held ‘endless
of and impatient with his staff, and smoothening arguments’ with him on points of facts and style.
Mrs Lee travelled with her husband on official
The devoted
Peranakan couple, and unofficial trips, selected his clothing and packed
Minister Mentor his luggage. She would stay behind in the hotel
and Mrs Lee
Kuan Yew.
until he had left for his appointments in case he
needed something, and waited for him to return in
the evenings so that he could brief her on his day.
Poignantly, in her last two years when she was
incapacitated, she would wait up for him to recount
his day and read her favourite poems.
MM Lee sought her counsel often not only in
politics, but on the ways of the world. Mrs Lee had
an uncanny ability to judge character, and was
prescient in her pronouncements about events.
Anecdotal accounts testify to Mrs Lee’s negative
opinion of political personalities that was borne
out, and that the merger with Malaysia would
not last.
Mrs Lee was the quintessential wife, mother,
grandmother and the grande dame of Singapore.
She had a strong influence on MM Lee, their
children and grandchildren. She quietly and
effectively devoted her whole life to her husband,
MM Lee, and to her three successful children, one
of whom is serving as Singapore’s Prime Minister.
Nyonya Kwa Geok Choo truly lived a life
of service.

38 | ISSUE 1 • 2011
 NOTICEBOARD

PERANAKAN ASSOCIATIONS IN THE REGION

SINGAPORE Tel: 012 6218 909 THAILAND
The Peranakan Association Singapore (TPAS) Fax: 06 2837 215 Thai Peranakan Association
Raffles City PO Box 1640, Singapore 911755 To contact the President, Datuk Phua Jin Hock, 61 Satul Road, Muang District, Phuket 83000,
Contact: Mrs Lim Geok Huay, Hon Secretary please email [email protected]. Thailand
Email: [email protected] Contacts: Dr Kosol Taenguthai at email:
Tel: 65 6255 0704 KUALA LUMPUR & SELANGOR [email protected]; Ajan Pranee
Fax: 65 6353 6801 Persatuan Peranakan Baba Nyonya Kuala Sakulpipatana at email: [email protected],
Website: peranakan.org.sg Lumpur & Selangor (PPBNKLS) mobile: +66 81 693 3576; or Kun Piyarat
63 Jalan Telawi, Bangsar Baru, 59100, Kuala Kulvanich at email: [email protected]
Gunong Sayang Association (GSA) Lumpur, Malaysia or mobile: +66 81 719 0967.
50 Lorong 24A, Geylang Road, Singapore 398574 Contact: Cedric Tan, Hon Secretary Fax: +66 76 258179
Contact: Mr Victor Goh Liang Chuan, President Email: [email protected] Tel: +66 76 258124
Email: [email protected] Tel: 03 2287 1613 Website: Thaiperanakan.com
Mobile: 65 9647 8456 Fax: 03 2287 3613
Fax: 65 6441 1569 Website: peranakan-kl.org AUSTRALIA
Website: gunongsayang.org To contact the President, Dr Lee Su Kim, please Peranakan Association Australia Inc
email [email protected]. 16 Albion Road, Box Hill 3168, Victoria,
MALAYSIA Australia
MELAKA PENANG Contacts: Mr Harry Teo, Secretary, at
Persatuan Peranakan Cina Melaka (PPCM) State Chinese (Penang) Association / Persatuan email:[email protected], tel:(home)
149, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren Street), Peranakan Cina Pulau Pinang +603 9890 1818 or (mobile) 0411 305 628; or
75200 Melaka 13, Perak Road Ms Ivy Lee-Chan Gek Kim, Newsletter Editor,
Contact: Ms Chin Siok Hoon, PJK (Hon Contact: Bernard Chow, President at e-mail: [email protected], tel (home):
Secretary) Email: [email protected] +0603 97174831 or (mobile) 0434 913 726.
Email: [email protected] Tel: +60 12 4811881

REVISED LIFE MEMBERSHIP FEE FROM 1 APRIL

Join now and take the opportunity to enjoy the
existing life membership fee of $103.00, inclusive of a
membership card charge of $3.00, a rate which has
been unchanged for many, many years. This is because
the total rate will be increased to $128.00 with effect
from 1 April 2011 inevitably due to rising costs.
Download the membership form from our website at
peranakan.org.sg or call Mrs Lim Geok Huay at
65 62550704 for enquiries.

THE PERANAKAN ASSOCIATION SINGAPORE

ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING
26 March, Saturday, 3.00 pm,
Ixora Room, Peranakan Museum, Armenian Street.
Strictly for members only.
Please call Mrs Lim Geok Huay at 65 62550704 for
enquiries.

WE WELCOME OUR NEW MEMBERS

Ms Agnes Choo Geok Chin
Ms May Lee Siu Cheng
Ms Bernadette Low Yan Fen
Mdm Gloria Ng Kheng Imm
Mr Vincent Song Jianliang
Ms Janice Yap

OBITUARY
Our deepest sympathies to the family of our member
who has passed on:
Mdm Cheng Guat Cheng

ISSUE 1 • 2011 | 39
 DIRECTORY
THE PERANAKAN GUIDE • SINGAPORE
MUSEUMS Wee Bin was a mid-19th century shipping Peranakan restaurants in the neighbourhood.
magnate) since 1910, the house was sold in http://www.visitsingapore.com/publish/
2005 to the National University of Singapore stbportal/en/home/what_to_see/suburban_liv
and is now run by NUS Museum. Funds for ing/katong.html. http://www.myjoochiat.com.
the purchase and restoration were donated
Amoy Street and Telok Ayer Street.
by Agnes Tan, in memory of her father Tun
One of the first Peranakan enclaves, now
Tan Cheng Lock. Baba House 157 Neil Road,
occupied by restaurants and offices. Many
Singapore.
Peranakans from Malacca moved to this area
Tel: 62275731. Visits are by guided tours.
as soon as the East India Company began to
Please call the house for details.
lease out land for sale.
http://www.nus.edu.sg/museum/baba/index.
html
Asian Civilisations Museum. The first
museum in the region to display a wide range
Peranakan Museum. See the world’s first
of artefacts from across Asia, the ACM not
national Peranakan Museum with the most
surprisingly has some important Peranakan
comprehensive and finest collection of
treasures. The Mary and Philbert Chin
Peranakan artefacts. Be delighted by the
Gallery has some lavish examples of gold
vibrant and colourful culture of the Babas
jewellery, sireh boxes and other paraphernalia,
and Nyonyas. Singapore’s newest boutique
some encrusted with diamonds, and fine
museum examines the centres of Peranakan
batik textiles from the north coast of Java,
culture in Malacca, Penang and Singapore, Thian Hock Keng. The oldest Hokkien
all made for the Peranakan market.
and traces its links to as far as Indonesia, temple in Singapore was founded in 1821
1 Empress Place, Singapore 179555,
Myanmar and Thailand. although the present structure, built without
Tel: 6332 2982, Opening Hours: 9am to 7pm
Peranakan Museum, 39 Armenian Street, nails, was completed only in 1841. The temple
(Tuesdays to Saturdays), 1pm to 7pm (Mondays),
Singapore 179941. is dedicated to Mazu, the Daoist goddess of
Admission $8 (adults), $4 (senior citizens and
website:www.peranakanmuseum.sg the sea and protector of all seamen. Many of
students). http://www.acm.org.sg
Email: [email protected] the temple’s patrons were Peranakan
Tel: 6332 2982. pioneers, such as Tan Tock Seng, who
LANDMARKS
Blair Plain. A typical Peranakan residential donated $30,000 for renovations. He also
National Museum of Singapore. The founded the hospital named after him.
area around Spottiswoode Park, Blair Road
museum’s Singapore History Gallery pays The Hokkien Huay Kuan, a community
and Neil Road which is worth a stroll. Visit
tribute to the contributions of the pioneering organisation for Hokkien people in Singapore
Guan Antiques nearby at Kampong Bahru
Peranakans. On view are some outstanding was housed at the temple and also helmed
Road, a treasure trove of Peranakan
artefacts, including the oil portrait of Lim by Peranakan pioneers. Thian Hock Keng, 158
heirlooms.
Boon Keng, old photographs, jewellery and Telok Ayer Street, Tel: 6423 4616.
http://www.arch.nus.edu.sg/SOA/design_stud
sireh sets, as well as the magnificent carved
io/dds2b/blair/study/Blair.html.
wood hearse of Tan Jiak Kim, which is Tan Si Chong Su. Built in 1878, Tan Si
considered one of the 11 Treasures of the Emerald Hill Road. Another interesting Chong Su is the ancestral temple of the Tan
National Museum. National Museum of residential district showcasing the best of clan, and was founded by prominent Baba
Singapore, 93 Stamford Road, Tel: 63323659, eclectic Peranakan domestic architecture, just philanthropists Tan Kim Ching, son of Tan
Opening Hours: 10am to 6pm Daily (Singapore off Orchard Road. Tock Seng, and Tan Beng Swee, the son of
History Gallery), 10am to 9pm Daily (Singapore Tan Kim Seng. The first president of the
Living Galleries), Admission $10 (adults), $5 temple,
(senior citizens above 60), $5 (students, Nsmen), Tan Kim
Free admission to the Singapore Living Galleries Tian, was
from 6pm to 9pm. http://nationalmuseum.sg. a well-
known
Baba House. Baba
This heritage shipping
house at 157 Neil tycoon.
Road opened on The
4 September temple
2008. Go back in Katong and Joo Chiat. Perhaps the nerve consists
time to 1928 and centre of Peranakan life in Singapore. In its of shrines for the ancestral tablets of Tan
experience what a heyday it was the site of nearby grand seaside clansmen, as well as altars to the clan deities.
grand Peranakan villas and elaborate Peranakan terraced The elaborate stone and wood carvings as
terraced house houses. The latter can still be seen in a walk well as the swooping ceramic roof finials
would have been along Koon Seng Road. Also visit Peranakan makes this one of the most elaborate Chinese
like. Owned by shops such as Katong Antique House (208 temples in Singapore, quaintly located amid
the Wee family East Coast Road) and Rumah Bebe (113 East the gleaming towers of the financial district.
(whose ancestor Coast Road) as well as the great variety of Tan Si Chong Su, 15 Magazine Road.

40 | ISSUE 1 • 2011